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THIS BOOK IS DEDICATED 
BY THE AUTHOR TO 

EMINENT HORTICULl URIST 
ADVISER AND FRIEND 



THIS BOOK IS DEDICATED 
BY THE AUTHOR TO 

EMINENT HORTICULTURIST 
ADVISER AND FRIEND 




JOSEPH MERHAN 




Practical Landscape 
Gardening 

THE IMPORTANCE OF CAREFUL PLANNING 
LOCATING THE HOUSE— ARRANGEMENT 
OF WALKS AND DRIVES— CONSTRUCTION 
OF WALKS AND DRIVES— LAWNS AND 
TERRACES— HOW TO PLANT A PROPERTY 
LAYING OUT A FLOWER GARDEN— ARCHI- 
TECTURAL FEATURES OF THE GARDEN 
ROSE GARDENS AND HARDY BORDERS 
WILD GARDENS AND ROCK GARDENS 
PLANTING PLANS AND PLANTING LISTS 

BY 

Robert B. Cridland 



New York 

A T. DeLaMare Company, Inc. 

1918 



[MM 




% 






Copyright, 1916, by 
A. T. De La Mare Printing and Publishing Go. Ltd. 



Copyright, 1918, by 
A. T. De La Mare Comp.\ny, Inc. 



All rights reserved 



APR 12 1913 



<r^ 



€)C!.A492916 



OvO 



FOREWORD 




This book is the outcome of a series of 
articles on Landscape Gardening which 
appeared periodically in The Florists' 
Exchange. At the suggestion of the 
publisher these articles have been aug- 
mented, new subjects added, and the 
whole more thoroughly illustrated than 
was possible in the hmited space of a 
magazine treatise. 

The book is designed to appeal, in 
particular, to that large body of sub- 
urban home owners who have moderate 
sized properties susceptible of artistic 
arrangement and beautification. 

It is not possible for the majority of 
men and women to give a sufficient amount of time to the 
study of design, horticulture and gardening, in order to treat 
their individual properties in a practical and artistic manner, 
and although ner.Hy every one possesses the sense of taste to 
the extent -* .- reciating the difference between that which 
is pleasin lat which is crude or grotesque in the com- 

pleted s very few have the time, imagination and 

construe \ >: p .vcr necessary to formulate a design which will 
represen luHy the capabihties of their own grounds, whether it 
be a small plo' or an estate of some acres. 

To - i I who are interested in the artistic development 
of the' surroundings it has been the author's aim in this 

book rth, in a clear and logical way, the basic principles 

whicl' wi.i i^ ing about the most desirable environment, from 
a gaiilcning standpoint, of the moderate sized city lot or the 
subi >au estate, however limited that may be. 



4 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 

The text has been made as brief as possible to give more space 
than usual to photographic illustrations, sketches and plans, 
so that each subject treated may be more readily understood 
and applied. 

Long lists of trees, shrubs, and flowers have been omitted, 
except in those instances where planting plans are shown, 
accompanied by planting keys. In preparing these planting 
keys the type of plant necessary to secure the best effect has 
been considered, rather than individual varieties, and these 
keys are therefore subject to modification so as to suit existing 
conditions. 

While the initial intention of the articles was to assist those 
engaged in gardening as a business, it is the desire of the author 
that all who take pleasure in the art of gardening may find in 
this book some additional incentive to attain that which is 
beautiful in landscape design. 

I wish to gratefully acknowledge the valuable assistance 
rendered by Mr. Stanley V. Wilcox and Mr. A. T. De La Mare 
in the arrangement of this book. 

Robert B. Cridland. 
Philadelphia, May 9, 1916. 

PUBLISHERS' NOTE 

TO SECOND EDITION 

Expecting that Mr. Robt. B. Cridland's bor' 1 be well 

received on account of the thorough manner i^ he had 

covered his subject, we printed a much larger fi on than 

is usual with works of this character. 

So great, however, has been the demand, successful 

the book, that in less than eighteen months a seco. J. edition has 
been called for. The work in its text matter anii illustrations 
could not easily be improved, therefore few change? fvive been 
made, with the exception of the addition of five n\ ' ■, iting 

plans and keys covering moderate sized properties 

A. T. De La Mare \ 

New York, January 15, 191 8. 



CONTENTS 

(For Classified Index see pages 275 and 276) 

CHAPTER I 

Importance of Careful Planning 

Greater Enjoyment of Our Surroundings— Expression of Taste and 
Personality— Enjoyment of Others— Uplift to the Community— Economy 
of Execution— The Plan— The Grading Plan— The Planting Plan. 

CHAPTER H 
Locating the House — Exposure 

CHAPTER HI 
Arrangement of Walks, Drives and Entrances 

CHAPTER IV 
Construction of Walks and Drives 

ui u^'^'^u^- I Wa'ks-Macadam Walks-Red Gravel Walks-Flagstone 
Wa ks— Bnck Walks— Steppmg Stone Walks— Terrace Walks— Dutch Tile 
Walks— Driveways of Cement— Waterbound Macadam— Bituminous Roads- 
Cement Surfacing— Cement Approaches— Gutters— Cement Gutters— Rubble 
Gutters— Brick Gutters— Sod Gutters— Care of Sod Gutters— Ca.ch Basins- 
Gratings— Connecting Catch Basins with Drainage Lines. 

CHAPTER V 

Lawns: Grading, Construction and Upkeep 

Preliminary Preparations— Lawns Ascending from Highways— Lawns 
Descending from Highways-Sub-Grade-Underdrainage— Lawn Grading— 
Larger Areas— House Below Pavement Grade— Terraces— Lawn Making- 
Sodding— Seeding— Grass Seeds. 

CHAPTER VI 

Ornamental Planting of Trees and Shrubs 

The Background for the House— Framing the House— Trees for Framing 
the House— Base Plantings— What to Avoid in Base Plantings— Plants for 
Base Plantings (Shrubs)— Plants for Base Plantings (Broad-leaved Ever- 
greens)— Unity in Lawn Plantings— Planting for Detail— Avoid Straight 
Lines—Avoid Rows of Trees Along Curved Driveways— Lines of Trees for 
straight Driveways— Specimen Lawn Trees— Lawn Groupings— Planting 
in Lawn Depressions-Planting in Valleys-Boundary Plantings-Variety 
Pl.nfTn Pla"tmgs-Edging the Border Plantings-Evergreens in Border 
plantings— Specimen Trees in Front of Border Plantings— Avoid Odd Shaped 
Tree Pl.iitn'" genter-Ornamental Planting on the Farm-Summary- 
TrPP. ™'"g-^-""'"^~^''^1 Planting with Dynamite-Moving Large 
Irees— Root Pruning— Care of Trees and Shrubs— Insect Pests 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 

CHAPTER VII 
The Flower Garden 

Classification of Gardens — Garden Dimensions and Design — Garden 
Entrance — Garden Background — Garden Enclosures — Height of Garden 
Enclosures — Garden Wails — Gray Sandstone Walls — Coping — Brick Walls — 
The Stucco W'all — Dry Stone Walls — Hedges — Retaining Walls^Garden 
Steps— Piers— Walks and Beds— Width of Walks — Materials for Walks— Turf 
Walks — Brick Walks — Red Gravel — Stepping Stones — Flagstones — Slate — 
Tanbark — Borders — Garden Beds, /idth — Preparing Garden Beds — Humus — 
Floral Treatment — Bulbs — Annuals — Hardy Shrubs — Evergreens — Treatment 
of Gardens Constructed on More than One Level — Planting Around Garden 
Enclosures — Water in the Garden. 



CHAPTER VIII 

Architectural Features of the Garden 

Sundials — Bird Baths — Fountains and Pools — Depth — Construction — 
Pool Coping — Water Supply and Drainage — Garden Pools with Fountain 
Heads — Planting Near Garden Pools — Plants in the Pool — The Plants — 
Fish — Swimming Pools — Water Supply — Garden Seats — Garden Houses — ■ 
Pergolas — Floors — Color of Wooden Garden Features. , 

CHAPTER IX 

Hardy Borders and Rose Gardens 

Perennial Borders — Location of Hardy Borders — Avoid Borders Next to 
a Hedge — Turf Edge for Beds — Borders Along a Fence — Borders in the 
Vegetable Garden — Width of Borders — Preparation of Beds — Time to 
Plant — Summer Care — Arrangement of Plants in Hardy Borders — Border 
Beds Should not be Graduated Evenly as to Height — Back ground for Borders- 
Rose Chains in Perennial Borders — Arches Over Walks— Planting in Clumps — 
Bulbs and Tubers — Spring Bulbs — Summer Flowering Bulbs — Autumn 
Bulbs — Annuals in the Borders — Rose Gardens — Rose Garden Designs — • 
Position — Beds — Preparation of Beds — Planting and Care — Varieties — 
Climbing Roses. 

CHAPTER X 

Wild Gardens 

The Wild Garden as an Isolated Feature — Walks — Beds — Planting in 
the Wild Garden — Flowers in the Wild Garden — Rock Gardens — Garden 
Locations — Placing of Rocks — Soil — Arrangement of Plants — Moisture 
Important — Garden Steps with Pockets for Plants — ^Time of Planting- 
Shrubs in Rock Gardens — Evergreens in the Rock Garden — The Heathers. 

CHAPTER XI 

Planting Plans and Planting Keys 
Glossary of Technical Terms 



ILLUSTRATIONS AND PLANS 

Approach, Construction of a Cement 59 

Approaches. See Entrance Arrangements. 

Ash, American. Fraxinus americana 97 

Back Yard Planting 209 

Base Plantings 86, 87, 88, 89 

Birch, White (Betula alba laciniata pendula) 100 

Bird Bath, The 174 

Border and Boundary Plantings. .92, 94, 95, 103, 104, 105, 107, 108, 110, 196, 

199, 200, 201, 202, 203, 206, 207, 208, 212 

Brick Garden Wall 141 

Brick Walks 53, 54 

Catch Basins 63 

Cedar, Deodara (Cedrus Deodara) 98 

Cedrela, The (Cedrela sinensis) 83 

Cement Walks, Construction of 49, 50 

Chrysanthemums, Hardy, in a Border Along the Wall 199 

Construction Details of the Garden. See Garden Construction. 
Construction of Lawns. See Lawn Grading. 

Dogwood, Pink Flowering 13 

Drive and Walk Entrances. See Entrance Arrangements. 

Driveways, Construction of 57, 58, 59, 60, 61, 62 

Dry Wall Gardening 225 

Entrance Arrangements 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 

43, 44, 45, 46 

Farm Plantings HI, 112 

Flagstone Walks 51 

Flower Garden, The. . . . 125, 127, 131, 134, 136, 137, 139, 141, 145, 147, 152, 

153, 154, 157, 158, 160, 161, 164, 165, 168 

Fountain and Pool 175 

Garden, Construction Details of the. . . .139, 141, 142, 145, 148, 150, 151, 157, 

158 

Garden Entrance 192, 193 

Garden House 185, 186, 187, 195 

Garden, Rock 229 

Gardening, Dry Wall 225 

Garden on Three Levels, Sketch of 166 

Garden Pergola 189, 190, 191 

Garden Seats 132, 183, 184 

Garden Steps 148, 227, 228 

Garden, The Flower. See Flower Garden. 

Garden Pools 176, 177 

Garden Walls, Construction of 150, 151 

Garden, Wild 220, 223, 224 

Ginkgo or Maidenhair Tree (Salisburia adiantifolia) 81 

Grading of Lawns. See Lawn Grading. 

Gutter Construction 60, 61 

Harmony, A Study in 17 



8 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 

Page 

Hollyhocks in a Border Planting 207 

House, Framing the 78 

House, The Best Exposure for, in Relation to the Sun 21 

House, The, Various Studies in Locating on a Small Lot. ... 19, 22, 23, 24, 25, 

26, 27 

Landscape Development, In its First Stage of 16 

Larch, The European (Larix europsea) 82 

Lawn Groupings 94, 95 

Lawn, Specimen Trees for the. See Trees, Specimen, etc. 

Lawns, Grading of 64, 66, 67, 69, 71, 73, 75, 77 

Locating a House on a Small Lot. See House, The Various Studies in, etc. 

Macadam Driveways, Construction of 57, 58 

Macadam Walks 49 

Moving Trees 121 

Oak, Pin (Quercus palustris) 96 

Ornamental Plantings 78, 79, 80, 86, 87, 88, 89 

Perennial Borders 200, 201, 202 

Pergola, Garden 189, 190, 191 

Personal Note in the Design (Lombardy Poplars) 12 

Phlox, Hardy, in a Border Planting 199 

Planning, A Result of Careful 14 

Planting for Ornamental Purposes. See Ornamental Plantings. 

Planting for Unity, Detail and Effect 85, 86, 87, 95, 104, 113 

Planting Plans and Keys 95, 128, 129, 130, 131, 132, 134, 135, 167, 168 

169, 214, 215; 232 to 273 
Planting Trees. See Tree Planting. 
Plantings, Base. See Base Plantings. 

Pools, Garden 176, 177 

Poplars, Lombardy 12 

Rear Yard Artistically Planted 209 

Rock Garden 229 

Rose Arches 218 

Rose Garden, A Design for 214, 215 

Rose Garden on an Ascending Grade 217 

Slate Walks 52 

Spruce, Koster's Blue (Picea pungens Kosteriana) 99 

Standpipe for Garden Pool Overflow and Drainage 178 

Steps, Garden 148, 227, 228 

Stone Walks 55 

Stucco Walls 142 

Swimming Pool 180 

Terrace Walks 56 

Terraces, Grading of 69, 71, 73 

Tree Moving 121 

Trees, Specimen, for the Lawn 81, 82, 83, 96, 97, 98, 99, 100 

Vegetable and Flower Garden 136 

Vegetable Garden on an Old Farm Propertv 113 

Tree Planting '. 116, 117, 118 

Vista, Establishing a 11 

Walk and Drive Entrances. See Entrance Arrangements. 

Walk, Dominant Main, with Smaller Service Walk Somewhat Removed.. . 28 

Walks, Construction of 49, 50, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56 

Walls: Construction of, 150, 151; Dry Stone, 226; Brick, 141; Stucco, 
142; Retaining, 145, 158. 

Wild Garden, The 220, 223, 224 

Yard Planting 209 



IMPORTANCE OF CAREFUL PLANNING 



CHAPTER I 



IMPORTANCE OF CAREFUL PLANNING 

How very seldom it is that the home builder gives the same 
thought and consideration to his outdoor home surroundings that he 
gives to the interior of his home ! Do we not enter a man's home 
the moment we set foot on the property, and not, as generally ac- 
cepted, when we cross the threshold ? 

There are many important reasons for the careful planning of 
the home grounds and I would lay particular stress on these: The 
greater enjoyment of our surroundings; The expression of taste 
and personality; The enjoyment of others; The uplift of the com- 
munity; The economy of execution, 

GREATER ENJOYMENT OF OUR SURROUNDINGS 

To get the greatest amount of enjoyment out of our home sur- 
roundings from a purely practical standpoint the drives, the walks 
and other utilitarian features should be carefully planned in their 
relation to the house. Much thought should also be given to the 
location and arrangement of the garage, stable, chicken houses, and 
other buildings apart from the main house. 

From an esthetic standpoint an even greater amount of thought 
should be given to the accentuating, through the correct framing of 
any architectural features of the house (Fig. 1); to screening out 
unsightly views; to the establishing of vistas; and to the locating 
and planting of the gardens. Every tree and shrub, every plant 
and plantation, should bear a definite relation, one to the other, in 
the general scheme. 

EXPRESSION OF TASTE AND PERSONALITY 

It is a very welcome thought that, as yet, the taste and refine- 
ment of the average home builder is not judged entirely by the 
exterior arrangement and adornment of his property. It is only 
when it is brought to his attention through some striking incident 
that the average man is brought to the realization that, to the ma- 



10 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 

jority of his fellows, the exterior appointments of the home stand for 
what he himself is. If these be cheap and tawdry he is judged to 
his prejudice, but if the arrangement is orderly and artistic he is 
credited accordingly. 

It is essential, therefore, that our exterior surroundings reflect 
us truly. No matter how small the space, it is possible to beau- 
tify it. Among all the arts of design none is so varied in its appli- 
cation as that pertaining to landscape gardening. Every subject 
has surroundings which influence the treatment best suited to its 
needs; it may be the configuration of the ground, or the presence of 
Nature's gifts of woodland and water; it may be unattractive nearby 
scenes, or beautiful distant views; often, lacking all, we must create 
scenes within the boundaries. 

The personal note continually enters into the design (Fig. 2). 
Some lean toward an arrangement that is stifif and formal, others 
to the flowing and graceful; some are partial to evergreens, others 
to deciduous trees and shrubs. In the floral adornment much oppor- 
tunity is given for individual taste in the arrangement, the color 
scheme, and the seasons of bloom. 

ENJOYMENT OF OTHERS 

This is an unselfish reason for more careful planning and worthy 
of mention from that standpoint alone. Have some thought for 
your neighbor and the passerby. Surely such an opportunity is 
not to be overlooked, for of all pleasures none is to be compared with 
that which brings joy to the heart of others. 

The owner who plans, builds and cultivates beautiful things is 
a benefactor, and in no channel of thought or activity is there greater 
or more satisfying response than in the creation of the beautiful in 
landscape design (Fig. 3), showing a well placed flowering specimen. 

UPLIFT TO THE COMMUNITY 

Nothing is so conducive to general carelessness, slovenliness 
and neglect as ill kept, unkempt and untidy exteriors. Likewise, 
nothing is more elevating and uplifting to a community than well 
arranged, artistic properties (Fig. 4) with well kept lawns and gar- 
dens. The effect of such surroundings is magical in its influence, 
and creates an insistent desire in others for the equal possession of 
that which is pleasing and beautiful. Figs. 5 and 6 show property 
before and after planting, from same point of view. 



THE PERSONAL NOTE IN PLANNING 



II 




ESTABLISHING A VISTA 

Fig. I. — Well planned exteriors add greatly to the enjoyment of our surroundings. This 
planting arrangement emphasizes the bay window on the stairway. — See page 9 



12 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 




THE PERSONAL NOTE IN THE DESIGN 

Fig. 2, — ^Lombardy Poplars. In the landscape treatment there is a wide choice of material 
to suit the individual taste.— See pages 10 and 84 



THE PERSONAL NOTE IN PLANNING 



13 






"4^ 







PINK FLOWERING DOGWOOD 

rig- 3. — There is a great and satisfactory response to be secured through the cultivation of 
beautiful trees. — See pages 10 and 84 



14 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 




A RESULT OF CAREFUL PLANNING 

Fig. 4. — The residence here illustrated is an example of the good results to be obtained from 
careful planning, — See page 10 



THE PERSONAL NOTE IN PLANNING 15 

Every house in a community should contribute toward the en- 
joyment of the inhabitants thereof, in some Httle artistic excellence, 
and it is inexplainable why we have so many heterogeneous, unattrac- 
tive and commonplace properties in communities otherwise refined 
and cultured. Lack of foresight in the planning is usually the 
cause. It is important, therefore, that not only individuals, but 
communities in general plan carefully for the house surroundings. 

ECONOMY OF EXECUTION 

From a purely practical and financial standpoint much can be 
said of the importance of careful planning. Landscape work at- 
tempted without the most careful consideration of all the details is 
never very satisfactory and usually entails large additional expen- 
ditures for omissions and revisions. In the planning of landscape 
work the floral adornment is really only one of the many features 
which must be considered. To make the most of our opportunities, 
and to solve easily questions of proper grading and draining, the 
planning for landscape features should start with the locating of 
the house 

From this point, questions of walk and drive arrangement, walk 
and drive construction, lawn grading and making, drainage, the 
garden and the garden details, should all be taken up in order. It 
is only when we have a preconceived and specific plan combining all 
these elements that the landscape work can proceed in an orderly 
and economical manner. 

THE PLAN 

The plan represents the conception of the designer committed 
to paper in a specific and comprehensive manner. 

Any development, to be worth while, should be studied in the 
plan before attempting to execute the work on the ground. 

In landscape work it is usually advisable to have two general 
plans — the grading plan and the planting plan. 

THE GRADING PLAN 

The grading plan is the essential beginning of the landscape 
design; the foundation on which the picture we desire to create will 
be reahzed. It shows the location and arrangement of all the prac- 
tical and utilitarian features. It provides for the walks and drives 



THE PERSONAL NOTE IN PLANNING 



17 




A STUDY IN HARMONY 

Fig. 6.— Well arranged, artistic properties are an uplift to the community. The building 
is the same as that shown on page 16. — See page 10 



18 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 

and gives the established grades for the same. It shows in a con- 
crete form the scheme devised for the grading and lawn making, the 
proper preparation of all portions on which turf is wanted. The 
gardens are located, grades established, enclosures and architectural 
features, such as fountains and pools, provided for. Questions of 
drainage are carefully considered and taken care of; also the water 
supply for lawns, gardens, fountains and pools. In fact, all the 
physical features are provided for and specified so that estimates 
for the whole or for any part of the work may easily be secured. 

To prepare a grading plan there must first be a simple survey 
of the property. The map of the survey should show the property 
lines and existing features, such as large trees, buildings, roads, if 
any, all in their true relative dimensions and positions. 

In connection with this survey levels should be taken showing 
the existing contours at intervals of from one to five feet, according 
to the slope of the ground. Also elevations at the base of trees and 
in the vicinity of buildings, the sidewalk elevation, and the crown 
of the highway. 

I will not go very deeply into the technicalities of making a 
survey or of running levels. On small properties anyone with a 
knowledge of simple engineering can get all the data necessary; on 
larger estates a topographical survey is necessary. 

THE PLANTING PLAN 

The planting plan represents the horticultural and esthetic part 
of the design. It shows the selection and distribution of the trees 
and plants, each having a definite purpose and a direct bearing on 
the whole general scheme. In the making of such a plan all the 
questions that the reader will find taken up and considered in the 
chapters on Tree and Shrub Planting, Flower Gardens, etc., are 
important, and their application is shown in Chapter XI, where 
many concrete examples will be found. 




LOCATING THE HOUSE 



19 



CHAPTER II 



LOCATING THE HOUSE 

When planning the house, even for a small plot, much consid- 
eration should be given to the proper location. The aim should 
be to secure comfort, pleasure and enjoyment for the occupants, 
not only from the interior, but as well from as much of the exterior 
as may be embraced. Some thought should be given, too, to the 
presentment of the best architectural features of the house to the 
view of those from without. 



EXPOSURE 

The course of the sun in relation to the principal rooms of the 
house should be of the first importance. Fig. 7 shows the points of 
the compass and the comparative value of each exposure. 

The location of the majority of small houses is governed by the 
street. The highways usually run north and south, or east and 
west, and so the houses are placed accordingly, invariably facing 
the street. This is a practice that should be discontinued if we 
are to get all the enjoyment possible out of our homes. There is 
no good reason why we should not turn the house entirely around 
if necessary to get the best exposure. By careful planning of the 
house and grounds, the kitchen wing may, if advisable, face the 
street with more pleasure and comfort to the occupants, and with- 
out objection to the passerby. 

Figs. 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13 show houses variously lo- 
cated on small lots. 

On larger estates the house should really be planned 
for the house site, and not the site for the house, as 




STUDY OF A HOUSE LOCATION ON A SMALL LOT 

Fig. 14. — A house on an eminence with rising ground in the rear. 
See page 20 



20 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 

is so often the case. Here, too, we have the question of best ex- 
posure, and, in addition, consideration must be given to the back- 
ground, views, and drainage. 

The house should always be on an eminence, but need not neces- 
sarily be on the highest point of the ground (Fig. 14). In fact, it 
is often advisable to select a site with rising ground at the rear. If 
the rising ground be wooded the house will appear more attractive 
and fit more snugly into the landscape. For the best view one 
can always ascend to the higher point for observation and the scene 
will be more enjoyable for the occasional visit than it would be if 
it were continually within the line of vision. 

It is often possible to locate the house so that the principal rooms 
are on the axis of some beautiful distant view. This point should 
not be overlooked when the site is selected. 

The question of drainage is an important one. To secure com- 
fort and health in a home the cellar and foundation should always 
be dry. The ideal location is one where the ground slopes directly 
away from the house on all four sides (Fig. 15, page 77). When such 
a location is not available the character of the soil should be con- 
sidered and, if the ground is w^et, underdrains should be provided. 

The attitude usually assumed that no consideration need be given 
to the landscape treatment when locating houses on small plots, needs 
modification. While the house must be the dominant feature, a 
careful study of surrounding conditions, of exposure and exterior 
adornment, will well repay the owner. 

It is much to be regretted that, on account of the generally in- 
considerate placing of the house, most of our lawn area is in the 
rear of the house. Certainly this gives a larger measure of privacy, 
but too often this privacy is a detriment. People grow careless of 
that which is not open for all to see. Backyards provide a con- 
venient place for the accumulation of trash and rubbish and soon 
the lawn is in danger of being neglected. In older communities where 
more consideration is given to landscape design in modeling the home 
grounds this condition is on the wane and the rear is considered of 
equal importance as the front (Figs. 11 and 12). A much better 
scheme is that of placing the house well to the rear of the lot, leav- 
ing but a small space at the back; or of placing the house well to 
one side, allowing a more extended lawn from the front to rear 
line. If the exposure is good the principal rooms of the house may 
be planned to face the lawn rather than the street. 



LOCATING THE HOUSE 



21 



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22 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 



Fig. 8. — House 
located well to 
the rear of the 
lot with 
straight box 
bordered 
approach. — See 
page 19 




STUDY OF A HOUSE LOCATION ON A SMALL LOT 



LOCATING THE HOUSE 



23 




Fig. 9.— House 
facing the 
street with 
straight ap- 
proach. — See 
page 19 



STUDY OF A HOUSE LOCATION ON A SMALL LOT 



24 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 



Fig. 1 0.- 
House located 
well to the rear 
of lot, showing 
treatment with 
curved walk, 
entering from 
the side to give 
apparent 
breadth to the 
property. — See 
pages 1 9 and 29 




STUDY OF A HOUSE LOCATION ON A SMALL LOT 



LOCATING THE HOUSE 



25 




±±^l^ 



) l^ E=- 



Fig. II.- 
House located 
with kitchen 
wing facing the 
street: hidden 
by the plant- 
ing. — See pages 
19 and 20 



^ >-^ 



STUDY OF A HOUSE LOCATION ON A SMALL LOT 



26 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 



Fig. 12.- 
House placed 
in the center 
of lot facing 
the rear, and 
overlooking a 
formal garden. 
The borders 
are shrub plan- 
tations with a 
bird thicket at 
the rear as a 
background to 
the garden. — 
See page 19 




STUDY OF A HOUSE LOCATION ON A SMALL LOT 



LOCATING THE HOUSE 



27 




Fig. 13.- 
House facing 
the street, with 
curved ap- 
proach; lawn in 
rear protected 
by the extend- 
ing border 
plantings. — 
See page 19 



STUDY OF A HOUSE LOCATION ON A SMALL LOT 



28 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENLNG 




WALKS, DRIVES AND ENTRANCES 29 



CHAPTER III 



ARRANGEMENTS OF WALKS. DRIVES AND ENTRANCES 

After the site for the house has been located the next provision 
to be made concerns the best arrangement of walks and drives. 
Here, as in all the other features of landscape development, we have 
a wide latitude and are not confined to any one particular style. 
Every property has its individual conditions; these must be care- 
fully considered, for they will more or less influence the designer of 
the drive and walk arrangement. One principle, however, is fixed: 
Drives and walks must be as direct as possible without being forced 
or twisted; they should approach by means of straight lines or by 
easy, graceful curves. 

The house being the objective point, the trend should always be 
in its direction. The approach, when from the side, should be so 
placed that a good perspective of the house will attract the eye as 
one comes toward it. If some architectural feature in the house 
is a dominant note and worthy of attention arrange the curve so 
that, at a certain point, this feature will hold the center of the pic- 
ture. Some such feature may be a prettily designed window, door- 
way, oriole bay window, or a well designed gable end. 

When the house is situated at some distance from the highway, 
the foreground fairly level, and the property of considerable depth, 
a straight approach (Fig. 16) on the axis of the portal, such as the 
straight, box-bordered approaches of the old Southern homes, is 
most pleasing. 

In a straight approach (Fig. 17) there should be no circles, such 
as we often see, around which a detour must be made before the 
house is reached. 

On a property of little breadth the straight walk through the 
center bisects the lawn, leaving two tracts which are very difficult 
to treat. On such a property it is better to confine the walk to" one 
side (Fig. 10) and arrange the planting to accentuate the breadth. 

In the majority of cases drive and walk should enter at a right 
angle to the property line (Fig. 18) and finish parallel to the house. 
Fig. 19 shows an improper method of intersection with front pavement. 



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WALKS, DRIVES AND ENTRANCES 



31 




Fig. 18. — Good entrance arrangement. 

Walk entering at a right angle to the 

property line.— See page 29 



Fig. 19. — Poor entrance arrangement. 

Walk not at a right angle to property 

line. — See page 29 



When a residence is located on a highway where all or nearly 
all of the traffic is from one point, the entrance drive (Fig. 20) should 
favor that direction. Such an arrangement is also desirable when 
the ground on the opposite side of the road is precipitous or dangerous. 

The entrance gate should be toward that side of the property 
from which the greater portion of the traffic may be expected. It 
is a decided mistake to place the entrance at a point where it will 
necessitate the crossing of the breadth of the lot and then having 




Fig. 20. — Entrance arrangement when traffic is all from one direction 

to return to the house after entering the property. Where the traffic 
is likely to be just as great from one direction as from another it is 
quite practicable and pleasing to have two entrances with a semi-cir- 
cular walk to the front (Fig. 21). This is feasible where the width 
of the lot is about equal to the distance (or a little less) from the 



32 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 




WALKS, DRIVES AND ENTRANCES 



33 




•PUBLIC +H l<3 H-\/VAy 



Fig. 22. — Plan showing two entrances close to party line fences 



front property line to the residence. Such an arrangement is more 
pleasing than a straight walk down the center. It gives the ap- 
pearance of the lawn expanse and apparently greater breadth. 

When placing the entrance at the side (Fig. 22) a sufficient space 
should be left between the walk and the party line for some orna- 
mental planting. 

When it is desirable to have two entrances (Fig. 23), one may 
be for pedestrians and the other for vehicles. 

It is well to have the service walk (Figs. 24 and 24A) somewhat 
removed from the front of the house if possible. The main walk 
leading to the front of the house should be dominant, the service 
walk narrower. 

Where the length of the walk is sufficient it is advisable to have 
greater variety and beauty by having a reverse curve (Fig. 25), but 
this is only permissible where the distance is at least fifty feet. 

Corner properties (Figs. 26 and 26A) may be entered from the 
corner, but such entrances are rather difficult to arrange in a satis- 



34 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 




Fig. 23. — ^Two entrances; one for pedestrians, one for vehicles. — See page 33 

factory way. Where such a scheme is adopted it is best to have the 
piers set well back from the line, placing them tangent to the arc of 

the circle with the center at the in- 
tersection of the two property lines. 
This will leave two small grass 
plots on either side of the walk 
which may be pleasingly treated 
with ornamental plantations. 

When locating a drive or walk 
where it is desired to avoid the 
direct line, it is well to select a 
point (Fig. 27), if practicable, 
where some formidable feature, 
such as a large tree, makes some 
deviation from the straight line 
necessary. 

On properties where the resi- 
dence is located not less than 
Fig. 24.-Plan showing the walk to ^^ f^^^ ^^^^ ^^^ f^.^^^. jj^ 

service end or house somewhat removed •' . ' 

from the house.— See page 33 which distance IS essential to give 




WALKS, DRIVES AND ENTRANCES 



35 




Fig. 25. — Plan showing arrangement of the 

approach where the house sets too far back 

to be reached by a single arc of a circle, 

and a reverse is necessary. — See 

page 33 



a proper turning space for 
cars with a large wheel 
base, an entrance (Fig 28). 
may be placed on the axis 
of the house and the drive 
constructed to a true cir- 
cle. This is a particularly 
appropriate arrangement 
for houses of classic de- 
sign. 

On narrow ways the 
entrance posts should set 
well back (Fig. 29) 
to afford an easy turn 
into the property. The 
piers defining an entrance 
should always be set at 
right angles to the road- 
way and, where the en- 
trance is at an angle, the 
fence or enclosing mater- 
ial, be it hedge or wall, should extend by a graceful curve to the 
piers. A more pleasing and comfortable approach will be provided 
by keeping the fence two to four feet back from the pier, and finish- 
ing against the pier at a light angle, rather than finishing directly 
to the center of the face of the pier toward the highway. 

The question of width and grade of approaches is of vital im- 
portance. If the elevation from the highway to the residence be 
great, the ascent should be as gradual as practicable, crossing the 
I contours at the greatest possible angle. 

To cross a contour at a right angle 
gives the steepest grade and is to be 
avoided. When laying off the drive, 
set the dividers with twenty-five or 
fifty feet between the points and run 
around the contour map along a pos- 
sible line of ascent, figuring out the 
maximum of grade desired. A six 

c" 9^ bi u • ► per cent, grade, that is, a rise of six 

rig. lb. — rlan snowing arrangement , 

foi a corner entrance.— See page 33 feet in every One hundred feet of 




36 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 




WALKS, DRIVES AND ENTRANCES 



37 







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10 .2 



52 

5 i 

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38 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 




Fig. 28. — Entrance on axis of house, with drive constructed to a true circle. — See page 35 



drive, is an ideal grade. A ten per cent, grade, i.e., a rise of ten 
feet in every one hundred feet of drive, should be the maximum. 
A line in between these two should be established. In mountainous 
countries, of course, it is often necessary to establish a twelve to 
fifteen per cent, grade. 

On adjoining properties (Fig. 30) it is possible at times to have 
a party drive and turn, allowing an entrance to both properties from 
two streets, thereby affording a maximum of convenience with econ- 
omy of space. 

In contracted spaces, where houses are close together (Fig. 31), 



WALKS, DRIVES AND ENTRANCES 




Fig. 29. — Entrance posts set back with hedge or wall finishing at a right angle to the pier. — 

See page 35 

party drives are preferable to having two driveways paralleling each 
other, and where it is only necessary to provide for motor cars, two 
tracks constructed of cement are to be preferred to a driveway. 

Given a house on a higher level than the street, and only a short 
distance from pavement to house line, an arrangement of approach 
steps as shown in Fig. 32 will lengthen the walk, allowing it to come 
out to the lot line; in such a case the grass slopes on each side can 
still be maintained. 

Where the house is located on a level higher than the street level 
but near the same, it will add to the interest, and picturesqueness as 
well, if the approach is placed at one side, as shown in Fig. 33. The 
terrace level here is eight feet above the pavement, and the approach 
is arranged in four flights of steps. The belt planting gives privacy and 
the approach is planned so that it does not interfere with this feature. 

The drive turns (Figs. 34, 35, 36, 37 and 38), which are usually 
provided at the rear or side of the house, were quite roomy in former 
days with a diameter of fifty feet. The coming of the automobile 
has made it necessary to provide a diameter of seventy feet. 

The elliptical or egg-shaped turn is more desirable than the true 
circle. This allows of a rather flat side next to the house so that a 
waiting vehicle will be standing in the proper position. This is 
not possible on a turn that is part of the arc of a circle. 

When crossing a stream where a bridge is required (Fig. 39) it 
is advisable to cross at a right angle to the stream so that the wing 
walls may be built symmetrically. 



40 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENLNG 




WALKS, DRIVES AND ENTRANCES 



41 




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42 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 



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WALKS, DRIVES AND ENTRANCES 



43 




Fig. 33. — Entrance arrangement for house on a level just slightly higher than the 
pavement. — See page 39 



WIDTH OF WALKS AND DRIVES 

As regards width, the walks should not be less than four feet 
six inches. The driveways should not be less than fourteen feet 
where it may be necessary to have vehicles pass, or ten feet where 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 




Qlx>< 



Fig. 34. — The elliptical turn is attractive and practical either directly in front of the house 
or at the end. The ends should be full to give ample turning space. — See page 39 

the entrance is within sight of the turn. Where a great expanse of 
ground makes it more consistent with a proportionate entrance to 
have greater width, the drives may be made sixteen or eighteen feet. 
This greater width is really necessary now to allow motor cars to 
pass one another comfortably. 




Fig. 35. ^To provide turning space for the largest motor cars it is necessary to have a circle 
not less than seventy feet in diameter. The center should be directly on the axis of the 
entrance door. — See page 39 

Where possible, the pedestrian walk should be combined with the 
drive, thus eliminating the further breaking up of the lawn. Walks 
and drives are necessary, but cannot be considered as pleasing land- 
scape features where lawn space is small. Any scheme that will help 
to preserve the unbroken unity is to be desired. 



WALKS, DRIVES AND ENTRANCES 



45 







Fig. 36. — The egg-shaped turn should always be placed at the end of the house and be wel 
concealed by plantings. — See page 39 





Fig. 37. — A modified pear-shaped turn with the line nearest the house parallel to it. Such 
a turn is less desirable for the front of the house than one of formal design. — See page 39 



46 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 



it. 




Fig. 38. — The rectangular turn is dignified and especially appropriate for Colonial houses. 
The center grass space may be enclosed with box edging to good effect.— See page 39 




vT O .As, j_ E^ 



Fig. 39.— When a drive or walk crosses a stream where a bridge is required it is advisable 
to cross at a right angle to the stream so that the wing walls may be built symmetrically. — 

See page 39 



CONSTRUCTION OF WALKS AND DRIVES 47 



CHAPTER IV 



CONSTRUCTION OF WALKS AND DRIVES 

Walks and driveways are features which should be built with 
a view to permanency. The first cost of a properly constructed 
walk or road should not be considered prohibitive unless equal 
consideration be given to the expense of maintaining a poorly con- 
structed one. 

Main walks should not be less than four feet six inches wide, 
and where a great expanse of ground makes it consistent with a 
proportionate entrance they may be five or six feet. 

CEMENT WALKS 

Cement makes a good, permanent material for walks (Figs. 40 
and 41) and eliminates further upkeep, care and expense. It will 
outlast any other walk material with the exception of North River 
flagstone. For heavy soils a foundation of cinders eighteen inches 
deep is recommended. This may be reduced to six inches or omitted 
altogether on light and sandy soils. Three inches of concrete and 
one inch of cement finish make a durable walk. A three-quarter 
inch expansion joint should be provided every twenty to twenty-five 
feet. This should extend through the concrete base as well as the 
cement surface. The joint may be filled with asphalt or sand (Fig. 
42). Cement walks have very little to recommend them from an 
esthetic point of view. The surface is glaring in Summer and slip- 
pery in Winter. If the top is roughened with a coarse broom when 
put down the surface will be more pleasing than the customary 
smooth finish with small and regular indentations made with a 
roughened roller. A cement walk with roughened surface should 
have a smooth margin two inches wide on each side. 

^ The glare from cement walks may be reduced by tinting the 
surface coat with mortar stain. The stain should be used in 
small quantities, and only the very best make, care being taken when 
mixing to have the color thoroughly worked through the mass, other- 
wise it injures the quality of the cement. On an inclined walk it 
is advisable to have alternate linc^ of rough and smooth surface 



48 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 

running at right angles to the side of the walk. The roughened 
strips should be three inches wide and the smooth strips two inches 
wide. 

The use of cement has become so universal that it is really 
monotonous and, when possible, a material should be used that is 
more in tune with the natural surroundings. 

MACADAM WALKS 

Well kept macadam walks (Fig. 43) require more care than 
cement walks, but are a little more pleasing on a lawn. Use three 
Inches of two and one-half inch stone, two inches of one and one- 
half inch stone, and one inch of breaker dust. Wet thoroughly and 
roll to a hard and even surface. Quarry spawls may be used for the 
two and one-half inch stone if securable near at hand; this would 
materially reduce the cost. Such walks cost about seventy cents per 
square yard under favorable conditions. A macadam walk is more 
satisfactory from a landscape point of view than cement. On properties 
where steep grades are encountered provision must be made for 
proper drainage, else the cost of maintenance will be prohibitive. 
Gutters and catch basins should be installed at intervals. Macadam 
walks should have a crown of one-half inch to the foot. 

RED GRAVEL WALKS 

A surface of one to two inches of red gravel on the same base as 
recommended for the macadam path makes a walk that is really the 
best for paths within the property borders. Gravel walks are sub- 
ject to surface washing and should be provided with gutters and 
catch basins. 

FLAGSTONE WALKS 

Flagstone walks, made with flags of North River blue stone or 
Indiana limestone, are the most serviceable of all walks. 

The flags should be two to three inches thick and should be laid 
on a sub-base of cinders not less than six inches deep. Wet the 
cinders and tamp them to a hard, even surface; over this place one 
inch of bar sand compacted as a cushion for the flags. After the slabs 
are leveled and firmed the joints should be pointed with a flat cement 
mortar joint. 

It is customary to lay flags cut in single blocks of various lengths 
to the full width of the walk. 



CONSTRUCTION OF WALKS AND DRIVES 



49 



C<^ rrre'^ TV/WJv/ 




Fig. 40. — Cross section through cement walk. — See page 47 

In recent years the custom, copied from abroad, has been intro- 
duced of breaking up the flags and laying them with random joints 
(Figs. 44 and 45), giving a very picturesque effect. The interstices 
between the stones may be pointed with cement mortar one to one 
and one-half inches wide, or the joints may be made from two to 
three inches wide, without mortar, allowing the grass to come up 



^l^y^rri^<r/ yyW^^^'^ 




Fig. 41. — Cross section through cement walk, with cement curb. — See page 47 



in the spaces. The latter is much more attractive when it is possible 
to keep the turf green by copious waterings during droughts. 

Slate (Fig. 46) is sometimes used in a similar manner, and, com- 
ing as it does in various shades, some beautifully marked with rich 
brown splashes, makes a very pleasing appearance. When the 
slabs of slate are broken to be laid with random joints, with grass 




Fig. 43. — Cross section through macadam walk. — See page 48 



50 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 




CONSTRUCTION OP^ WALKS AND DRIVES 



51 



in the interstices, they may be laid directly on the turf where they 
will eventually settle into place with all the appearance of having 
" just happened there." 




Fig. 44. — Walk of broken flagstones laid with wide mortar joints.^See page 49 



BRICK WALKS 

The brick walk, properly laid, is pleasing to the eye and makes 
a good contrast with the turf. It does not lend itself well to curved 
lines and so should be used only where straight lines predominate. 

Bricks may be laid on either a cinder or a concrete base. A 
cinder base should consist of six inches of clean cinders with one 




Fig. 45. — Walk of broken flagstones laid with wide mortar joint.— See page 49 



52 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 




WlPP^'^tfS^?*?^^^^''''^ 



A SLATE WALK 
Fig. 46.— Slate makes a pleasing walk, coming as it does in various shades, some slates being 
beautifully marked with rich brown splashes.— See page 49 



CONSTRUCTION OF WALKS AND DRIVES 

t 



53 





Fig. 47. — If a brick walk is six feet 

wide or more a border such as 

shown here makes an attractive 

finish. — See page 51 



Fig. 48.— A good treatment for brick 

walks less than six feet wide. — See 

page 51 



inch of bar sand as a cushion. The concrete base, which is more 
expensive, should consist of five inches of concrete with a one inch 
sand cushion. A concrete base preserves a true aUgnment and 
prevents upheavals. A brick walk should always have a curb of 
bricks laid on edge or end. 

Figs. 47, 48, 49, 50 and 51 show various designs for brick walks. 

The old diagonal fashion (Fig. 52) gives an atmosphere of Colonial 
times and will probably continue to be looked upon with favor by 
those who contemplate the construction of garden walks. This 
design in particular does not lend itself well to curved lines, so its 
use is limited to positions where straight lines predominate. 




Fig. 49. — An attractive border of 

brick laid on edge the full width.— 

See page 5 1 



Fig. 50. — Basket pattern. Half bricks 
on edge for a border. — See page 51 



54 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 




Fig. 5 1 . — The basket pattern of bricks 

on edge is not so pleasing, as it 

shows too many mortar 

lines. — See page 53 




Fig. 52. — The old-fashioned diagonal 

or herringbone pattern in bricks or 

tile. Good where straight lines 

predominate. — See pages 51 

and 53 



When the bricks are laid in place the joints should be filled with 
bar sand or grouted and pointed with cement mortar. The mortar 
joints are expensive but more lasting than the sand and prevent 
weeds or grass from growing in the interstices. 

The texture of brick walks may be greatly improved by applying 
an occasional coating of boiled linseed oil. 

STEPPING STONE WALKS 

Stepping stones of local field stone (Figs. 53 and 54) are very 
naturalistic and picturesque. They may be laid in a single or double 
line; the double line for walks of importance, the single line for 
secondary paths. The stones should be set into the sod to a depth 
that will bring the flat surface level with the turf to allow 
of the lawn mower passing over. Space the stones twenty inches 
apart, center to center, using stones not less than twelve inches wide 
nor larger than eighteen inches wide. Vary the stones and avoid 
placing pieces of the same dimensions close together. 



TERRACE WALKS 



Terrace walks (Fig. 55) should be of rather generous dimensions, 
never less than five feet wide, while on very broad terraces the walk 
may be from seven to ten feet wide. It is good practice on broad 
terraces to place the walk nearer the house than the edge of the 



CONSTRUCTION OF WALKS AND DRIVES 



55 




Fig. 53.— Stepping stone walk; the stones, gathered from local sources, are laid twenty 
inches apart, center to center. — See page 54 

terrace, that is, to have more turf area on the outside of the walk 
than between the walk and the building. 

Any of the materials mentioned for walk construction are suit- 
able for terrace walks. Something substantial looking, such as 
the flags, or bricks, are most appropriate, and should always be laid 
on a firm base. 

DUTCH TILE 

Dutch tile, sometimes called brick tile on account of the simi- 
larity in texture, should be more generally used for terrace walks. 
These should always be laid on a concrete base with mortar joints 
not less than one-half inch wide. 

All paving material should be laid true and even, and on walks 




Fig. 54. — Field stones laid in turf are very pleasing where a walk of some width is desired. 

See page 54 



56 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 




TREATMENT OF THE TERRACE WALK 

Fig. 55. — Terrace walks should be of generous dimensions, never less than five feet wide.— 

See page 54 



CONSTRUCTION OF WALKS AND DRIVES 



57 




Fig. 56.— A cross section through a waterbound macadam road with cement curb and 

gutter. — See page 62 

it is essential to give them a crown of one-half of an inch to the 
foot. Terrace walks should follow the general slope of the ground. 

DRIVEWAYS OF CEMENT 

On small properties the cement driveway is advisable and superior 
to any other. Oftentimes two cement tracks, with sod between, will 
take care of all traffic and yet apparently reduce the space taken up 
by the drive. 

WATERBOUND MACADAM 

Most of the driveways built today are those which are known as 
Telford roads (Fig. 56). These are usually constructed of twelve 
inches of stone over all. An eight inch foundation is provided of 
hard quarry stone, laid on edge, with the longest dimension placed 




Fig. 57.— Very often the large stone for the base course in the drive may be quarried on the 
property. — See page 58 



58 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 




AN IDEAL BITUMINOUS ROAD 

Fig. 58. — A " Tarvia " macadam road. Free from dust and of good wearing qualities. - 

See page 59 



at a right angle to the side line of the drive. Very often this large 
stone can be found on the property (Fig. 57). After the stones are 
placed they should be gone over with napping hammers and made 
fairly even by breaking off the irregular edges; the pieces of stone 
so broken off should be used to fill in chinks. Over this should be 
placed three inches of one and one-half inch stone. Then a light 
covering of three-quarter inch stone may be placed as a binder and 
finished with clean breaker dust. The drive should be rolled be- 
fore and after placing the three-quarter inch stone, with a roller 
weighing not less than five tons. The three-quarter inch stone 
and the dust should never be mixed together; the dust will work 
through and the stone find the surface, making it rough and trouble- 
some. When rolling the finished surface it should be wetted con- 
stantly until a wave of water appears in front of the roller. 

BITUMINOUS ROADS 

The automobile is a new factor to be figured with in the con- 
struction of drives, as we find the waterbound roads are not very 



CONSTRUCTION OF WALKS AND DRIVES 




cr o 



CONSTRUCTION OF A CEMENT APPROACH 
Fig. 59. — Showing the construction of a cement driveway approach 

satisfactory when subjected to the wear and tear of motor travel. 
Dust prevention must also be considered. 

To strengthen the wearing surface of the macadam and reduce 
the amount of dust, some kind of refined tar is best (Fig. 58). There 
are many such preparations on the market today and each carries 
with it proper specifications for applying. This should preferably be 
applied during hot weather, the penetration then being more thorough. 

CEMENT SURFACING 

In some localities it is impossible to secure a stone with any 
adhesive qualities. Where such a condition exists run a cement 
grout, consisting of one part Portland cement to three parts of sharp 
sand, over the surface. Over this place a thin layer of the breaker 
dust and go over with a splint broom, thus roughening up the sur- 
face to prevent skidding. This makes a good, practical driveway 
that will stand a lot of traffic without unraveling or costing anything 
for maintenance. The bituolithic binders may be used for the same 
purpose provided the stone is of cubical form. 

CEMENT APPROACHES 

At the point where the drive intersects the highway it is advis- 
able to pave the surface from the outside edge of the gutter to the 
property line (Fig. 59). It is necessary, usually, to increase the 
drive incline at this point to meet the gutter grade, and if macadam 
is used. there is constant erosion. The paved surface prevents this 
and affords a hard surface for pedestrians. Such an approach should 



60 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 




CONSTRUCTION OF WALKS AND DRIVES 



61 



be constructed of cement or brick. If cement is used the surface 
should be roughened to prevent slipping. 



GUTTERS 



Where the walk or drive grade is not steep gutters will not be 
required and a few catch basins will take care of the surface water 
(Fig. 60). If the surface over which the water gathers is great enough 
the road will be more pleasing and serviceable when defined by a 
curb or gutter. 




Pr-we-^v^^ 



Fig. 61. — Section of a concrete gutter and 
curb. — See page 59 



Fig. 62. — A section showing the con- 
struction of a rubblestone gutter and curb 



CEMENT GUTTERS 

Where gutters (Fig. 61) are required the most satisfactory, 
although undoubtedly artificial in appearance, is the cement curb 
and gutter combined. This forms a good, substantial feature 
against which to finish the sod on one side and the road metal on the 
other. The foundation on heavy soils should be extended to a 
depth of eighteen inches. 

Use clean boilerhouse cinders or stone spawls as a foundation 
to within five inches of the finished grade; on this place the concrete, 
consisting of a mixture of one part Portland cement to four parts 
of sand and five parts of crushed stone. The finish coat should 
consist of one part Portland cement and two parts of sharp sand, 
troweled even and hard. 

RUBBLE GUTTERS 

The rubble curb and gutter (Fig. 62), built of quarried or field 
stone laid on edge and swept with chips, is very suitable for sub- 
urban and country districts. Such gutters should be not less than 
eighteen inches wide. 

An objectionable feature of the rubble gutter is that the grass 
and weeds grow up through the interstices. Where the stone is 
laid on a good foundation of clean cinders, twelve or eighteen inches 



62 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 

deep, the joints may be grouted with Portland cement mortar, using 
three parts sand and one part cement. This grouting will prevent 
the grass and weed growth. 

BRICK AND SOD GUTTERS 

Brick gutters should be laid on a four inch concrete base and 
firmed with bar sand or a cement grouting. A concave brick gutter, 
eighteen inches wide, should slope three inches to the center. If a 
curb is desired the brick should be laid on end with the gutter finishing 
against it, and sloping two to three inches to the curb. 

The most pleasing gutters are those of turf. Such gutters should 
be concave, with a slope toward the center of from one to two inches 
to the foot. A gutter four feet wide should slope two inches to the 
center. A gutter six feet wide should slope one inch to the foot, 
giving a three inch depression as the minimum. The carrying ca- 
pacity is increased by the increased breadth. Where the area to be 
drained is large the gutter may have a maximum dip of six inches. 
After sodding the gutter a light coating of soil should be spread over 
the surface and sown with a good quality of grass seed. 

In sod gutters inlets are necessary to carry off the surface water. 
The number required will be governed by the area to be drained. 
In rolling ground with large areas it is usually necessary to place 
them every fifty feet. When building a driveway where sod gutters 
have been adopted the drive surface should be finished even with 
the soil so that the water will run off into the gutters. 

Turf gutters should be formed of tough sod cut from an old 
pasture. Before laying the sod, the concave surface should be covered 
with three or four inches of good soil and made true and even with 
a template. This can easily be pulled along as the soil is deposited 
and a'^uniform surface made for the reception of the sod. 

CARE OF SOD GUTTERS 

Every Spring the edge of the gutter should be tamped down 
along the edge of the drive, as the frost will heave it higher than the 
road metal. It should be rolled when the lawn is gone over in early 
Spring after the frost is out of the ground. 

CATCH BASINS 

Catch basins (Fig. 56) may be constructed of concrete or brick, 
whichever material is more convenient to the operation. The con- 
crete construction is simple and should consist of a mixture of one 
part Portland cement, three parts of sand, and four parts of crushed 



CONSTRUCTION OF WALKS AND DRIVES 



63 



stone. Side walls should be six inches thick plumb, and an opening 
left for the outlet pipe one foot above the bottom of the basin. This 
will allow a space for the sand and debris to collect. 

The side walls for brick catch basins should be at least nine 
inches thick, built of straight, hard, building bricks that will ring 
clear when hit together. They should be laid in a Portland cement 
mortar consisting of one part cement to two parts of sharp sand. 




Fig. 63. — A good type of 
catch basin grating 




• "- u^nrrcTSf 






Fig. 64. — A catch basin designed to receive a 
large volume of water 



GRATINGS 

Catch basins should be provided with gratings (Fig. 63) with 
ample open spaces between the bars for a free intake of all water. 
Small openings become clogged with leaves and are useless. 

Where a large volume of water is to be taken care of it is well 
to build the basin back six or eight inches beyond the iron grating 
and place a coping stone over it, with an opening three inches wide, 
for the full length of the grating (Fig. 64). 

CONNECTING CATCH BASINS WITH DRAINAGE LINES 

Where road drainage is connected to the sewage disposal system 
it is necessary to have a running trap between the sewerage line and 
each connection with the catch basins. In this event care should 
be exercised to see that all pieces of pipe are free from flaws and the 
joints packed with oakum before cementing the sections together. 



64 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 




LAWNS: GRADING AND UPKEEP 65 



CHAPTER V 



LAWNS— GRADING. CONSTRUCTION AND UPKEEP 

No single feature connected with the landscape development 
of a property is so important as the lawn. We speak here of a lawn 
principally in the sense of an open grass plot, not in the composite 
sense of turf and plantings that we often think of when the term 
"lawn" is used. Possibly the old English term "greensward" would 
be a better word to use to describe a lawn in its single meaning, 
and we may revert to its use occasionally to keep the thought fixed. 

The lawn is the base that we must work on to make a pleasing 
landscape picture. It is the central feature and requires strict 
attention to all details. It is the element in landscape gardening 
that continually lends or takes. It is framed by pleasing shrubbery 
borders and, in turn, frames lovely vistas. Made perfectly level, 
and hedged in tightly with border plantings, the whole property 
looks cramped and contracted. Given gentle slopes and slight de- 
pressions, and allowed to run off here and there, a feeling of expanse 
is created. A house set lower than the street level may, by care in 
the lawn grading, be made to appear much higher than it is. In 
these and in many other ways does the lawn enter largely into the 
best landscape development. 

PRELIMINARY PREPARATIONS 

Good greenswards are not often met with, and the majority of 
failures may be traced to lack of forethought in the making, that is, 
lack of forethought in the physical construction. Too often soil 
and seed alone enter into the question and no thought of drainage 
or future upkeep. Such lawns are never a success and can never 
be improved unless torn up and a fresh start made. 

Let us look well, then, to a right beginning, so that our finished 
lawn will be a unison of the proper relation to house, best drainage 
and construction, proper seeding, and ease of upkeep. In order to 
do this it is essential that we familiarize ourselves thoroughly with 
all existing physical conditions before the work is started. 



66 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 




A LAWN ASCENDING FROM A HIGHWAY 

Fig. 65. — Cross section showing proper grading of portion around a residence located on 

ground ascending from the highway. — See page 67 



Before the excavation of the cellar is made all the top soil, which 
extends to a depth of from four to twelve inches, should be removed 
and stacked in convenient piles for future use. It is well, too, to 
remove the surface soil for a distance of fifteen to twenty-five feet 
beyond the lines of all the buildings, as the construction work is 
apt to destroy all the soil close by. 

This important feature is often overlooked, for, as a general rule, 
the landscape gardener is not called in for advice until the residence 
and other buildings have been completed. 

Very frequently, too, houses are not properly situated as regards 
the elevation of the floor level above the surrounding grades of the 
ground. It has been the author's experience that a large percentage 
of the residences have been set entirely too low. It is very much 
better to err in the opposite direction, as height may be overcome 
by a proper planting at the base of the house in case there is not a 
sufficient amount of soil available to make the necessary fill. 




A LAWN DESCENDING FROM A HIGHWAY 

Fig. 66. — Cross section showing proper grading around a residence located on ground 

descending from the highway. — See page 67 



LAWNS: GRADING ANDRUPKEEP 

}: 



v^'W" 



g^^ 



Fig. 68 




67 



^f*^ 



p- ,n JL."°";^ 1 ^'S- 67.— A section through foundation wall 

'^' "^ '^ ■ ' ' ■ showing the revised grade at the point where the 

natural grade slopes toward the house. The 
line CC is the line of the natural grade; the line 
BB is the revised surface grade; the line AA is 
the revised sub-grade. An agricultural tile is provided at the base of the well to prevent 
seepage running into the cellar. 
Fig. 68. — A section showing the construction of a dry well for surface water. — See page 68 



LAWNS ASCENDING FROM HIGHWAYS 

If the house is located on ground ascending from the highway, 
with still higher ground in the rear of the house site, it is necessary 
to provide a plateau for the building (Fig. 65). This should be 
approached with a bold hand and the cutting out behind the build- 
ing made broad and generous to avoid a sense of being shut in. The 
revised surface should be sloped away from the building in all direc- 
tions. The minimum fall on the axis of the building should be 
one-eighth of an inch to the foot, while from the center toward the 
ends of the building at least one-quarter of an inch to the foot should 
be provided for. 

LAWNS DESCENDING FROM HIGHWAYS 

Somewhat the same conditions prevail on ground descending 
from the highway (Fig. 66). In both instances the precaution 
of waterproofing the house foundations, either with a tar paint or 
by building them of waterproofed concrete, should not be over- 
looked. 

SUB-GRADE 

The lawn surface around the house should have a minimum 
slope of one-half an inch to the foot and care should be taken to 
see that the sub-grade has a similar inclination (Fig. 67). No mat- 
ter how great the surface slope away from the house is, if the old 



68 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 

natural grade pitches toward the foundation walls the water perco- 
lates through the new fill and runs down the foundation walls to 
the cellar. Such a condition may also be overcome by filling in 
around the house with a stiff clay, if available, this to be thoroughly 
tamped or, still better, puddled. This sub-grade should have a slope 
of at least two inches to the foot for a distance of four feet from the 
foundation walls. Beyond that it may be reduced to one-half inch 
to the foot. 

UNDERDRAINAGE 

Occasionally the ground falls away enough to have a point lower 
than the cellar floor. In such instances it is a wise precaution 
against a damp cellar to introduce a three or four inch agricultural 
tile around the base, laid with open joints and half collars placed 
over each joint to prevent the soil from falling in and clogging the 
orifice. Where drive and walk drains exist this line of pipe may 
be connected with that system. 

LAWN GRADING 

Generally speaking, the surface beyond the buildings may be 
left as found so far as the contour of the ground is concerned; the 
exception being small properties where it is possible to modify all 
lines of grade to suit the house without entailing too great an 
expense. 

LARGER AREAS 

On larger properties it is only necessary to soften steep depres- 
sions or humps by lengthening the slopes, provided, of course, that 
the surface water may be drained off. Where depressions are large 
and the work entailed to carry the surface water off over the surface 
is too extensive, a catch basin should be provided. From this the 
drain may be projected to a lower point of grade or to a small well. 
Such a well should be about three feet in diameter and four feet 
deep (Fig. 68), this to be filled with stone to within twelve inches of 
the top, over which place the top soil. Draining to such a well is 
preferable to running it out on the surface. Drainage to a well 
spreads by seepage over a large area. In case a sewer line has been 
installed in the streets it is much better to connect with it, but 
extreme care should be taken to see that the line of pipe is properly 
trapped to prevent sewer gas from backing up in the pipe lines. 



LAWNS: GRADING AND UPKEEP 



69 




'"'''^-^'m.....^^ 




)-(:+ 



*' CORRECT GRADING FOR HOUSE BELOW PAVEMENT GRADE 

Fig. 70. — A section showing revised grade for lawn when the house is located lower than the 

pavement 

HOUSE BELOW PAVEMENT GRADE 

Quite frequently topographical conditions are encountered that 
make it necessary to set the house below the grade of the pave- 
ment. (Fig. 70.) In such cases the site selected should be just as 
far back from the property line as practicable, the slope from the 




H«=fcf„ 



'"'"'''''^^m^. 



'''nf>iM/////Af^/>^>?f'^. 







CORRECT GRADING WHEN HOUSE IS ON STREET LEVEL 

Fig. 71. — A section showing concave lawn surface where the pavement and house grades 

are on the same level. The convex surface as shown by the dotted line is not so good as it 

apparently shortens the distance. — See page 70 

house to a point one-fifth to one-third the total distance from the 
house to the property line to be made rather sharp, with the longer 
slope from the property line to the established low point. This 
treatment will seemingly lift the house up and is more pleasing than 
a grade with the longer slope falling from the house. 




TREATMENT OF TERRACES 

Fig. 72. — When the distance CC is less than BB it is better to eliminate the slope BC and 

grade along the lines of AA. — See page 70 



70 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 

Should the point of grade at the house and at the pavement 
be on the same level (Fig. 71), and provided the house is located 
well back from the property line, the appearance will be greatly 
enhanced by making a depression between the houSe and the street. 
To do this the elevation of the ground at one side must be below the 
lowest point of depression. It is very apparent that a lawn graded 
to such a profile would give a sense of distance while, on the other 
hand, a convex line would tend to shorten the distance. 

TERRACES 

When to introduce terraces is a problem that requires careful 
consideration. On a ground slightly undulating and where the 
surface slopes are rather gentle, the effect is more pleasing if the 
lawn rolls right up to the walls of the house. On more rugged 
ground, where there is a great variation in levels between the various 
corners of the house, a level plateau surrounding the house is better. 

The width of the terrace will depend somewhat on the size of 
the building and the lot; ordinarily it should not be less than 
fourteen feet; if there is to be a paved terrace or a porch, the 
turf terrace, being of different texture, should be at least one-third 
greater in width. It is very unsatisfactory to have a terrace of 
greater breadth than the remaining area between the bottom of 
the slope and the line of the property. 

When a condition exists wherein the space is not great enough to 
treat it as above recommended it is more advisable to have the 
slope extend from the plateau at the house to the property line by 
a gentle inclination (Fig. 72). The surface should slope at least 
one-half inch to the foot, and the slope from the terrace to the sur- 
rounding lawn grade should not be steeper than one foot to two feet, 
while one to three is much preferable as the grass is more easily cut 
on such a slope than on one with a sharper inclination (Fig. 73). 
The slope should always be uniform and the line next to the house 
should be parallel to the building, while the bottom line of the ter- 
race may vary according to the slope of the abutting lawn. When 
close to the house, where straight lines predominate, it is best to 
have two lines of the terrace well defined. 

A terrace along a property line (Fig. 74) may be graded to a 
convex surface at the top, and at the bottom it may be given a con- 
cave surface, thus gracefully merging the steeper grades into the 
more gentle ones at top and bottom. 



LAWNS: GRADING AND UPKEEP 



71 




TREATMENT OF TERRACES 

Fig. 74. — A section showing convex and 

concave lines at the top and bottom 

of the slope to meet the existing 

grades gracefully. — See page 70 




TREATMENT 
OF 
TERRACES 
Fig. 75. — A sec- 
tion showing lines 

of a slope and the space between the bottom of 
the slope and the hedge, where a hedge is to be 
provided at the toe of the slope. 



Where hedges are to be planted 
along property lines, at the top 
of the terrace, or at the bottom, 
which is the better place for them, 
the lines should be decided (Fig. 
75) . When a hedge is to be planted 
at the bottom of a slope, the toe 
of the slope should be at least three 
feet back from the line. This will 
. . r provide a level space 

H g<^^ C^ to stand on and trim 
^ the hedge with much 

more comfort than standing 
on a slope. The plants, too, 
will thrive better. Slopes 
should always be sodded 
where a good, clean turf is 
procurable. 



LAWN MAKING 

While the building is in course of construction the soil will become 
very much compacted by the teams and mechanics, a condition 
which is rather bad for the sustaining of grass. All the areas which 
have been trodden down hard should be loosened up before the 
surface soil is replaced. Better turf can usually be grown on soil 
that is broken up to some depth. 

When the grading is being done it is well to take account of the 
nature of the soil and ascertain what treatment may be necessary 
for the production of a satisfactory stand of grass. If the soil is 
of a sandy or gravelly nature, or if it is lacking in humus, barnyard 
manure should be spread and thoroughly assimilated with the top 
soil. Should the soil be of a stiff, clayey nature, equal parts of sand 
and manure should be mixed through the top soil. This will make 
the soil more porous and the rain and air will reach the roots of the 
grass. 

Another point to look to, at this time, is the digging and prepa- 
ration of holes for any trees or specimen shrubs that it is planned to 
locate on the lawn. Such work can be done to much better advan- 
tage now than if left until after the rolling and seeding. 



72 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 

Sometimes it is necessary to raise the grade on ground where large 
trees are established. "A fill of a foot or more of soil over the roots of 
most trees will kill them very quickly. Such trees may be preserved 
by building a dry retaining wall with a diameter at least two feet 
greater than the trunk. If the lawn is of sufficient size and the trees 
form a clump, a depression may be left around them. 

Now that the rough work is out of the way, drainage attended 
to, grades established and terraces built, the question of the real 
making of the new lawn confronts us. 

The changed conditions make it necessary to provide new soil 
close to the house and on properties of small dimensions it may be 
necessary to resurface the entire area. Wherever fill is needed just 
as good soil as can be procured should be used and at least four 
inches of good top soil provided for the surface. 

If the old turf needs remaking it should be dug or plowed to 
the depth of a spade, the soil being turned well over, stones and 
weed roots removed and large clods broken up. 

Manuring or feitilizing is an important question. Experts 
claim that one ton of grass removes from the soil thirty-four pounds 
of nitrogen, thirty-six pounds of potash and seventeen pounds of 
phosphoric acid. It is largely these substances, therefore, that 
must be provided. Stable manure, if obtainable, is very satis- 
factory. Apply at the rate of one load per one hundred square 
yards and dig or fork it into the soil. Care should be exercised to 
see that the manure is not buried too deeply, else it will not be with- 
in reach of the new young grass — four inches is a good average 
depth. A good commercial fertilizer, containing four per cent. 
nitrogen, eight per cent, phosphoric acid and ten per cent, potash, 
will be found to give very satisfactory results. This should be 
applied at the rate of ten pounds per one hundred square yards and 
raked in. Fertilizers that are highly soluble should not be used on 
sandy soils, as they will quickly dissolve after rainfalls, be washed 
beyond the reach of the roots and so wasted. This same remark 
covers all commercial fertilizers applied in a wet season or a time of 
drought. In one case they are washed away, and in the other they 
lie about the surface and waste. 

After manuring, the ground should be prepared to receive the 
seed. The soil should be carefully gone over with an iron toothed 
rake, all large stones removed, clods broken up and weed roots taken 
out, then rolled and raked until the surface becomes firm and fine; 
it should be so firm that walking over it leaves no footprints. 



LAWNS: GRADING AND UPKEEP 



73 




74 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 

SODDING 

The spaces along the walks and drives should be sodded to 
maintain the edge. It is well, too, to sod the space directly against 
the house, to prevent any soiling of the wall surfaces by splashing. 

SEEDING 

Time of sowing and the best seed are subjects of equal impor- 
tance. Unless we look well to these two essentials we may have 
our trouble in the manuring and preparation of the ground set to 
naught. Spring and Fall are the best seasons for sowing, prefer- 
ably the months of April and September. Lawns seeded late in the 
Fall should be given a mulch as a Winter protection. 

GRASS SEEDS 

The varieties of grasses suitable for the making of a good lawn 
are limited. The general desire is for a close turf of pleasing color. 
Soil and climatic conditions will enter largely into the right selec- 
tion. (The recommendations which follow apply to the Atlantic 
coast region north of Washington, D. C, and the Allegheny region 
as far south as northern Georgia.) 

Kentucky Blue Grass is the best all-around lawn grass and will 
thrive in any good lawn, providing it receives a generous but not 
excessive amount of moisture. 

In soils of very light character Red Top, Rhode Island Bent, 
Creeping Bent or White Clover are good. 

On account of the varied conditions met with, a mixture including 
the above named kinds in varying proportion, is usually most satis- 
factory. 

Seed of the highest grade from- a reliable house should be pur- 
chased and sown at the rate of five bushels (100 lbs.) to the acre; or, 
one quart to 300 sq. ft. This will allow for a very generous seeding, 
which is much to be preferred to seed sparsely scattered. 

Grass seeds will vary in weight as to the number of pounds to the 
bushel. In recleaned seeds of a high grade, Blue Grass should run 
from twelve to fifteen pounds to the bushel; Red Top extra re- 
cleaned, thirty pounds to the bushel; Creeping Bent, twenty pounds; 
Rhode Island Bent, fourteen pounds; White Clover, sixty pounds. 
A good grass seed mixture should average twenty pounds to the 
bushel. 

A calm day should be chosen for the seeding, otherwise it is 



LAWNS: GRADING AND UPKEEP 



75 




76 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 

hard to get an equal distribution. The seeding should be done in 
two directions, dividing the seed into two lots, one lot being sown 
at a right angle to the other. After sowing, the seed should be 
covered to a depth of about one-quarter of an inch; this may be 
done by raking the surface lightly. The ground should then be 
rolled with a light roller. When the young grass is about one and 
one-half inches high it shoiild be rolled again and the first cutting 
made when about two inches high. The machine should be set 
quite high for the first cutting. All bare and thin places should 
be promptly reseeded. 

The lawn having been thoroughly established it is very essential 
that careful and systematic attention be given to the upkeep; other- 
wise it will deteriorate very quickly. 

Weeds are always a menace and, linked with Fall Grass, should 
be continually fought against. Newly made lawns often contain 
many weeds of an annual nature which disappear after a few cut- 
tings. The perennial weeds are persistent and can only be effective- 
ly removed by hand. The dandelion and plantain are exceedingly 
troublesome and must be removed, root and top. This may be 
done with a sharp chisel or a three-pronged fork. Weeding 
forks for this purpose are to be had at all seed stores. Boys can 
usually be had to do this work at the rate of a few cents per 
hundred. 

During moist weather, when the grass is making vigorous 
growth, it should be cut about once in a week and an occasional 
rolling will help greatly to keep the surface firm. Grass does poorly 
on a loose surface. In hot, dry weather the blades in the machine 
should be raised so that the grass will be left of sufficient length 
to afford some protection to the roots. Too close cutting during 
Midsummer weakens the turf and makes it more susceptible to the 
inroads of Fall grass. 

Every Spring a fertilizer should be applied that will supply per 
acre one hundred pounds of potash and fifty pounds of available 
phosphoric acid. Apply at the same time a top dressing of three 
hundred pounds of nitrate of soda. The nitrate should be applied 
again at the end of June, using one hundred pounds to the acre. 
Such fertilizers are to be preferred to stable manures, as they 
are less offensive, require less labor to apply, and are free of weed 
seeds. 

It is possible sometimes to renovate a wornout lawn without 



LAWNS: GRADING AND UPKEEP 



77 



entirely remaking, by top dressing with a compost consistmg of 
equal parts of soil and manure, to which about ten per cent, of tank- 
age has been added. Such a top dressing is recommended also for 
lawns made on shallow soils. 

In the Southern States it is quite impossible to establish a per- 
manent greensward that will look well at all seasons. The only 
trrass that will succeed with any degree of satisfaction is the Ber- 
muda Grass {Capriola dactylon). This grass dies to the ground in 
the Winter, but is good during the Spring, Summer and early Au- 
tumn Lawns of this grass are made by cutting up the roots of old 
plants and setting the small tufts of root about twelve inches apart, 
inulching with well rotted manure. For Winter effect on terraces 
or lawn close to the house English perennial Rye may be sown. 




STUDY OF A HOUSE LOCATION ON A SMALL LOT 

Fig 15.-" The ideal location is one where the ground slopes away from the house on all 

four sides."— See page 20 



78 



I'KACriCM. LANDSCAIM-: ( ".ARDENT NO 




ORNAMENTAL TLANTINLi OF TRliES AND SHRUBS 79 



CHAPTER VI 



ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 

Although the drives, walks and topography contribute much 
toward the general effect of the home grounds, it is upon the embel- 
lishment of the whole, through the pro])er selection and arrange- 
ment of the ornamental plantings, that we depend for the picturesque 
beauty and grace of the lawn. 

TIIK BACKGROUND FOR TIIK HOUSE 

A first considi'ralion is a good background for tl\e house and, 
where one does not already exist, i)Iantati()ns of trees should be 
located that will give this effect as quickly as possible. In such 
plantings it is advisable to set more trees than will be needed 
eventually, the principle l)eing that trees planted close together 
encourage a greater top growth and thus attain height more (|uickly 
than trees given ample space for development; in the latter instance 
much of the strength going toward lateral growth. 

The I'ulip ]'o])lar (Liriodendron tulipifcra) is a rapid growing 
tree with all the needed f|ualities for a background planting. Under 
favorable condilit)us the Tulip P()[)lar will reach a height of one 
hundred or more feet. The foliage, rich and glossy, the attractively 
lobed leaves, the large, tulip-like green and yellow flowers, and a 
straight, towering main stem are all attributes of this grand tree. 
If this tree is used it should be set well back from the house line, as 
the branches spread to such an extent and rise to such a height 
that they will form a most pleasing canopy over any smaller and 
slower growing trees which may be planted between it and the 
residence. 

Other good trees for background planting are Red Oak (Quercus 
rubra), American Klni ( Ulmus amcricana) and Sugar Maple {Acer 
saccharum). These trees are all so well known that a l)rief descrip- 
tion will suffice. The Oak is, indeed, a majestic tree and well suited 
to any landscape subject. Downing sums up its chief characteris- 
tics in these few sentences: " Inhere is a breadth about the lights 



80 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 

and shadows reflected and embosomed in its foliage, a singular free- 
dom and boldness in its outline and a pleasing richness and in- 
tricacy in its huge ramifications of branch and limb that render it 
highly adapted to landscape purposes." The Elm, while lacking 
something of the stateliness of the Tulip Poplar or the majesty of 
the Oak, outrivals them both in grace and elegance. The com- 
paratively slender branches form into long, graceful curves until, 
in old trees, the light and airy foliage often sweeps the ground. 
The Elm should only be used when small groups are required. These 
trees, as a rule, are so similar in form as to be monotonous when 
planted together in large numbers. The Maple is valued for the 
rapidity of its growth, although it, too, has fine form and foliage. 
The Autumn coloring of the Sugar Maple, a beautiful, bright yellow, 
red and orange, is not equaled in any other tree. 

FRAMING THE HOUSE 

In addition to a suitable background it is essential that the resi- 
dence be properly framed by plantations at both ends (Fig. 77). 
The size and character of this framework will depend largely on 
the architectural style and the dimensions of the house. For small 
houses, often one specimen tree, placed at each end, is quite suf- 
ficient. These lines from Milton will convey the picture of such 
a frame much better than a lengthy paragraph: 

" Hard by, a cottage chimney smokes 
From between two aged Oaks." 

Houses built on a larger scale may require groupings. It is not 
always necessary nor advisable to plant the trees directly at the 
ends of the building. Usually a position forward of the front line 
gives a better effect. 

TREES FOR FRAMING THE HOUSE 

Where horizontal lines prevail in the general architectural 
scheme trees of a pyramidal type should be used. The Ginkgo 
{Salisburia adianti folia), European Larch (Larix europaea) and 
Lombardy Poplar {Populus fastigiata) are good examples of such 
trees. The Ginkgo (Fig. 78) occasionally assumes a broad, spread- 
ing top, but this type is so infrequently met with that it may be. 
for all purposes, classed and used as a pyramidal tree. For plant- 
ing near the house it is in a class alone and apart. Briefly, these 



ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 81 




Fig. 78.— The Ginkgo, or Maidenhair Tree (Salisburia adiantifolia) ; a good type of 
pyramidal tree. "For planting near a house it is in a class alone and apart."— See page 80 



82 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 




Fig 79.-The European Larch (Larix europ.a) ; a splendid tree to use near houses where 
^ horizontal lines predominate.-See page 84 . 



ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 83 




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^^M^^i 




Fig. 83. — The Cedrela (Cedrela sinensis). A good type of tree with spreading character: 
quick growing and free from insect attacks. — See page 84 



84 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 

are its chief attributes: Rapid growth, neat tapering head, un- 
usual grayish bark, immunity from insects, beautiful leaves re 
sembling greatly in form the leaves of the Maidenhair fern, and 
long life. The form and outline harmonize exceedingly well with 
buildings. The European Larch (Fig. 79) is a cone-bearing tree 
and belongs to the Pine family. It is not an evergreen, however, 
as it sheds its leaves in the Fall as do the deciduous trees. Perhaps 
its greatest charm is the picturesque appearance of even young 
trees. It has such an expression of boldness and freedom that, 
planted near the house, this effect must be relieved somewhat 
by grouping it with smaller harmonious trees, such as the 
White or Pink Dogwood (Fig. 3). The Lombardy Poplar in large 
quantities (Fig. 2) should be introduced only on large estates 
and to frame great houses. When planted near moderately sized 
dwellings the great height, often attained very quickly, is over- 
whelming. 

When perpendicular lines predominate in the building the trees 
planted close to it should be of a spreading character unless for 
some particular reason the perpendicular lines are to be accentuated. 
We have a great variety of such trees to choose from. If the house 
is large the Red Oak, White Oak, Elm, Cedrela, Sugar Maple and 
Ash are equally good. The Cedrela (Fig. 80) is a Chinese tree re- 
sembling the Ailanthus, but without its objectionable features. 
It is rapid growing and generally desirable. Near medium or small 
houses the Scarlet Maple, Sweet Gum, European Linden, Yellow 
Wood and Oregon Maple all have the needed characteristics. The 
Oregon Maple is uncommon and should be more frequently planted. 
It somewhat resembles the Sycamore Maple, but is a more robust 
grower; it has a large, handsome, dark green leaf. 

BASE PLANTINGS 

Houses which set close to the ground should have no planting at 
the base. The turf should extend up to the lines of the porches or 
paved terrace, with group plantings at the corners. 

Where the floor line is just enough above grade to admit of base 
plantings use plants dwarf in character (Fig. 81), with larger grow- 
ing varieties at the corners and in the blank wall spaces between 
windows. An error to avoid is the planting of anything in front 
of window openings that will attain a height great enough to inter- 
fere with the light. 



ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 85 

The outlines of base plantings should always be sinuous, ex- 
tending out at the corners and receding to the face of the building. 
Where the width of the bed permits, the use of tall and low growing 
plants (Fig. 82) adds greatly to the effect from the approach. 

WHAT TO AVOID IN BASE PLANTINGS 

A popular practice today is the use of a miscellaneous assortment 
of evergreens in beds close to the house (Fig. 83). When the plants 
are small the effect is undoubtedly attractive and the contrast of 
the blue, green and golden foliage pleasing. Builders of suburban 
houses which it is desired to sell quickly have taken advantage of 
this appeal and, without thought of the future, have used these 
evergreen base plantings to the exclusion almost, in some commu- 
nities, of the more desirable shrubbery groupings. This practice 
should not be followed in planting the home grounds. Many of 
the evergreens used are not dwarf types and soon outgrow their 
positions. The effect becomes monotonous in the extreme and 
lacks the variety of foliage, flower and fruit attainable by the use 
of a judicious selection of shrubs and broad-leaved evergreens. 

PLANTS FOR BASE PLANTINGS — SHRUBS 

A good selection of shrubs of a rather dwarf character can be 
made up from the following list: Spiraea Thunbergii, Spiraea An- 
thony Waterer, Deutzia gracilis, Caryopteris, Berberis Thunbergii, 
Azalea mollis, Desmodium penduliflorum, Deutzia Lemoinei, Daphne 
Mezereum, Forsythia suspensa, Spiraea arguta, Amygdalus nana, 
Ceanothus americana, Coriaria japonica, Hypericum aureum, 
Andromeda speciosa (Fig. 84). If the planting admits the use of 
larger growing plants these varieties are splendid for use close to 
the house; Spiraea Van Houttei, Rhodotypos kerrioides, Philadel- 
phus Lemoinei, Neviusia alabamensis, Ligustrum Regelianum, 
Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora, Hydrangea arborescens grandi- 
flora alba, Callicarpa purpurea, Weigela Eva Rathke. 

PLANTS FOR BASE PLANTINGS — BROAD-LEA\TED EVERGREENS 

The broad-leaved evergreens are splendid for base plantings (Fig. 
77), and will usually grow easily on any but a due southern 
exposure. The attractiveness of the foliage in Winter recommends 
them for liberal use in plantings near the house. Dwarf and tall 
growing kmds may be had in a diversity of form and foliage. 



86 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 




ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 



87 




PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 




ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 



89 




90 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 



Fig. 85. -Plan 
showing a lawn 
planting around a 
small house. The 
trees marked No. 1 
are placed for the 
purpose of a back- 
ground, while those 
designated No. 2 
are arranged for 
the framing of the 
residence. The 

belt plantation, 
shown in an irregu- 
lar fashion, is more 
interesting and 
gives a greater va- 
riety to the scene 
than is possible 
with a straight bor- 
der. Deciduous 
and evergreen trees 
are shown at the 
broad portions of 
the bed to give the 
necessary height 
and a more pleas- 
ing skyline.— See 
page 91 




UNITY IS NOT IMPOSSIBLE ON SMALL PLANTINGS 



ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 91 

Among the best are the Azaleas, the hybrid Rhododendrons, the 
Andromedas, Japanese Holly, Aucuba viridis, Kalmia latifolia, 
Laurocerasus, Abelia grandiflora, the Mahonias, Leucothoes and 
Phillyrea. 

UNITY IN LAWN PLANTINGS 

Between the house and the boundary lines lies that portion of 
the lav/n which is most difficult to handle and the part that we 
usually find the least tastefully designed. On this part of the 
premises we have to consider plantings along drives, plantings along 
walks and paths, lawn specimens and lawn groups. These must be 
considered individually and yet so treated that with the background, 
plantings around the house, and boundary plantations, all will 
combine to produce a harmonious whole. This we speak of as unity. 
Unity is not impossible on small properties. It may be had by 
keeping the greensward open and confining the plantings to the 
borders and along the paths (Fig. 85). Attempt only the simple, 
if you will, just grass and trees, and the effect is much more pleasing 
than a large tract planted with no definite aim. 

PLANTING FOR DETAIL 

It is along the drives and paths that we may plant for the 
beautiful, as it is here that the observer is brought into closer touch 
with the individual plant and its every detail. Specimen plants 
for such plantations should have, therefore, some unusual and 
delicate characteristics, which would most likely be lost if placed at 
a greater distance from the eye. Among those which are most 
highly recommended are the cut-leaved White Birch, the various 
forms of the Japanese Maple, the fern-leaved Beech, and the Eng- 
ligh Cork Maple. The Birch ' and the Maple are particularly 
handsome. 

Specimens noted in previous paragraph, planted along the line 
of a drive, should be set back about fifteen or twenty feet so as to 
give them a little foreground (Fig. 86). The Japanese Maples are 
quite dwarf and may be planted closei. Allow each tree ample 
space for perfect development and allow for a stretch of green- 
sward between specimens. 

AVOID STRAIGHT LINES 

The arrangement should be an avoidance of straight lines. The 



92 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 




PLANTING FOR DETAIL 

Fig. 86.— Deciduous and evergreen trees, together with shrubbery, at the intersection of 

drive and pathway. The individual plants should be so planted that each will grow into 

a perfect specimen of its kind. — See page 91 



ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 93 

larger growing trees should be near the house and the smaller kinds 
between the house and the entrance. Large growing trees on a small 
lawn have a tendency to dwarf the area. One or two large trees near 
the house will be quite sufficient in most cases. 

AVOID ROWS or TREES ALONG CURVED DRIVEWAYS 

Lines of trees along curved driveways or paths should be dis- 
couraged. Groupings are much more artistic (Figs. 87 and 88). 
(See planting key, page 95.) 

LINES OF TREES FOR STRAIGHT DRIVEWAYS 

Along straight driveways lines of trees on either side are 
agreeable and are especially pleasing where they lead directly to the 
portals of the house, as is frecjuently seen on some of our old South- 
ern estates The best trees for such purpose are the Sugar Maple, 
American Elm, Red Oak, and European Linden. The trees should 
be planted alternately rather than directly opposite, and should 
be at least thirty-five feet apart, set back from five to ten feet from 
the edge of the drive; of the evergreens the White and Austrian 
Pines and the Norway Spruce are the most suitable. 

SPECIMEN LAWN TREES 

Specimen trees planted on the lawn should be low branched 
unless it is desirable to maintain a view under the overhanging 
limbs. Surface rooting trees, such as the soft or Silver Maple, 
should not be used, as it is difficult to maintain a lawn under them. 
The Oaks (Fig, 89) are deep rooted and almost unsurpassed as 
lawn specimens. The Sugar Maple, the large growing Magnolias, 
Kentucky Coffee, American Ash (Fig. 90) and English Ash, Sweet 
Gum and the Elms, are among the best deciduous trees. Specimen 
evergreens are greatly desirable and add to the Winter aspect. 
Such splendid trees as Nordmann's Fir, Cedar of Lebanon and 
Deodora Cedar (Fig. 91), Hemlock Spruce, Silver Fir, Blue Spruce 
(Fig. 92) and White Pine are among the most important. If one has 
a love of trees, it is in the individual lawn specimens that a great 
variety may be had and, if care be used in the placing, the unity 
will still be preserved. As advised for specimen planting along 
drive&, avoid straight lines. Keep the larger trees toward the 
back and do not crowd along the property line; place the smaller 
varieties toward the point of view. 



94 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 




Fig. 87. — Groupings of trees and 

shrubs along curved driveways 

are artistic and pleasing. 

Lines of trees should be 

avoided. — See page 93 



LAWN GROUPINGS 

The lawn plantations or groups, those which are planted in tl c 
middle distance, should be pleasing in outline and so placed as to 
accentuate the view to some pleasing object beyond. The plants 
should be so arranged in the group that the outline is flowing and 
not stiff and regular. For the general arrangement and varieties 
best suited to such groupings we may take some suggestions from 
Nature, as there are certain trees and shrubs which w'e frequently 
find standing apart from woodlands. 

The Balsam Fir and the White Birch (Fig. 93) make a pleasing 
combination planted together, also either the Austrian or White 
Pine and the Beech. The Oriental Spruce, Nordmann's Fir and 
Koster's Blue Spruce (Fig. 92) may be used together in groups with 
very gratifying results. The Japanese conifers, such as the Retinis- 
poras, should always be grouped together or with the Arborvitaes. 
They do not harmonize well with the coarser leaved conifers. 



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PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 




ONE OF THE BEST TREES FOR THE LAWN 

Fig. 89. — Pin Oak (Quercus palustris). Among other requirements, specimen lawn trees 
should be low branched. The Pin Oak fulfils every requirement. — See page 93 



ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 97 




THE AMERICAN ASH MAKES A DESIRABLE SPECIMEN 

Fig. 90.— American Ash (Fraxinus americana). A quick growing type of desirable lawn 

tree. — See page 93 



98 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 




A SUITABLE SPECIMEN TREE FOR SMALL LAWNS 

Pig. 9]. — Deodora Cedar (Cedrus Deodara). Recommended as a specimen lawn tree. Of 
beautiful form and foliage; closely related to the Cedar of Lebanon. — See page 93 



ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 



99 




ALWAYS REMARKABLE AND ALWAYS DESIRABLE 

Fig. 92. — Koster's Blue Spruce (Picea pungens Kosteriana). Well known as a desirable 
evergreen; tips of foliage of a beautiful blue sheen. — See pages 93 and 94 



Groups on small areas should not be overcrowded. If imme- 
diate effect is desired first arrange for the permanent trees and then 
others may be added and removed as the desired trees develop. In- 
dividuals in group plantings should have ample space to show their 
true characteristics, otherwise they assume a stiff, unnatural habit, 
and mar .the scene they are intended to embellish. It is a question 
often as to just how much space some trees and shrubs require, so 
great is theJIdiversity in habit of growth. For the tall growing 



100 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 




THE BARK OF THE WHITE BIRCH OFFERS A PLEASING CONTRAST 

Fig. 93.— The cut-leaved, pendulous White Birch (Betula alba laciniata pendula) is a good 

tree for lawn groupings. With its white bark and graceful habit it lends itself to many 

pleasing combinations. — See page 94 



ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 101 

shrubs, such as the Weigela, Mock Orange, Snowball and Lilac, six 
feet apart is a good average; three feet will suffice for medium-sized 
plants; two feet for the dwarf growing kinds. If these distances 
are followed it is advisable to set the plants in the turf and leave a 
space around each plant spaded up; when the grass dies out be- 
tween the plants, the area may be made into a dug bed. This 
system is much better than having a dug bed from the first with 
large, bare spaces between plants. Should conditions favor the dug 
bed, a ground cover, such as Pachysandra, creeping Phlox, Candy- 
tuft, Rock Cress or Hypericum may be used to advantage. 

PLANTING IN LAWN DEPRESSIONS 

Where depressions occur in the lawn they may be accentuated 
by plantings on the slopes and high ground, leaving the depression 
open. 

PLANTING IN VALLEYS 

The view down a valley from the house site is always more restful 
if framed by plantings on the slopes. In arranging the plants place 
the dwarfer kinds to the base and graduate the height to the top 
where the trees should predominate. 

BOUNDARY PLANTINGS 

Belt plantations (Fig. 04) are always appropriate where it is 
necessary to create the scene within the grounds or where privacy 
is desired. When the surroundings are pleasingly planted or the 
natural conditions are such that the premises under consideration 
should be treated as a part of a general scheme, then the belt plant- 
ing must not be continuous but broken to such an extent that it will 
blend harmoniously with what is already established. 

Boundary or belt plantations (Fig. 95 on key page 104) should 
always be more or less sinuous, according to the area of the space 
we have to work with. Even on the smallest properties the irregular 
compound curved line is more pleasing than a straight one. The 
border should always be of greater depth at the corners, for it is 
here that we should have the greatest height. On small properties 
the corner plantings become a part of the framework for the resi- 
dence. Where the area of the grounds is large the border may be 
extended well into the lawn at points and the bays thus formed will 
give an idea of greater distance looking from the house. 



102 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 

VARIETY IN BORDER PLANTINGS 

Border plantations are too frequently very regular and flat when 
shrubs alone are used (Fig. 96). The effect is especially displeas- 
ing when they stand out alone against the open with no back- 
ground. It is well, therefore, to consider the skyline and introduce 
trees of various kinds at intervals. If the border is small choose 
the best of the dwarf sorts, and have the necessary height and variety 
of contour. In larger borders trees of greater dimensions should 
be used. A good choice may be made from among the following: 
Red Maple, Ash, Sugar Maple, Scarlet Oak and Sweet Gum. In 
addition to height and contour, all of these trees are noted for their 
splendid Autumn coloring. 

Large growing trees introduced into the border make it necessary 
to select shade enduring shrubs to plant under and near them. For 
such a purpose use Aralia pentaphylla, Weigelas, Viburnum cassi- 
noides, V. nudum, V. cotinifolium and V. acerifolium, Cornus alter- 
nifolia and C. paniculata, Hamamelis virginica, Ceanothus ameri- 
cana and broad-leaved evergreens (Fig. 97). 

EDGING THE BORDER PLANTINGS 

Edge the border planting with perennials, annuals and bulbs 
(Fig. 98), so that the season of bloom may be continuous from early 
Spring until late Fall. Keep away from bedding Tulips and other 
bulbs of a like nature in the border. Use Daffodils, Darwin Tulips 
and similar kinds that may be planted in clumps for naturalistic 
effect. 

EVERGREENS IN BORDER PLANTINGS 

If evergreens are used for a border planting set them in masses 
rather than as scattered specimens. Plant them in positions where 
it is desirable to have a Winter screen or where they will help plant- 
ings in front of them. If used as a background select only kinds 
that have green foliage. Plants, such as Judas, Golden Bell and 
Pyrus, together with shrubs having showy fruit, are very handsome 
against a background of evergreens (Fig. 99). The pyramidal 
type of evergreen, such as Arborvitas, Cypress and Juniper, are 
highly recommended for border planting, as they give an accentu- 
ated note to the scene and add to the picturesqueness more than 
any other type of plant. 



ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 103 





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ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 105 




BORDER PLANTING ALONG A PROPERTY LlNi. 

Fig. 96. — Instance of an attractive boundary planting along a property line, affording 
privacy and adding picturesqueness to the scene. — See page 102 



106 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 

SPECIMEN TREES IN FRONT OF BORDER PLANTINGS 

Specimens planted in front of border plantings should always 
be at the salient points and not in the bays formed by the border 
outlines. The positions of specimen conifers should not be de- 
cided without reference to the border plants behind them. Ever- 
greens with golden foliage should not be placed in front of shrubs 
with yellow leaves or flowers. Evergreens with blue foliage should 
not be placed in front of plants with silvery leaves. Strive to estab- 
lish a contrast, but be careful to preserve good balance and harmony. 
If an existing plantation, either on the premises or beyond, con- 
sists of large trees, the specimens planted in the foreground should 
have foliage that will blend. Use trees of the same variety and 
depend for contrast on smaller trees and shrubs planted still more 
to the front. 



AVOID ODD SHAPED BEDS IN LAWN CENTER 

The center of the lawn surface should not be broken up with 
circular or geometrically shaped beds. They destroy the quietude 
and harmony of the scene. 

ORNAMENTAL PLANTING ON THE FARM 

While the farm layout should be thoroughly practical, the 
farmer who thinks that he must carry this so far that he can find no 
time or place for anything that is pleasing and beautiful around 
his residence, lining his highway, or even the field itself, is very 
wide of the mark. The average farm house of the past few decades 
and its collection of outbuildings have not been such as to inspire 
either respect, friendly sentiment or pleasant associations. The 
result has been that during the last fifty years our rural districts 
have lost greatly in population, the girls and boys of the farm find- 
ing more pleasure and enjoyment in the towns and cities. 

The farm home and its surroundings should be made attractive 
and inspiring to the occupants, particularly to the younger genera- 
tion, that they may see in their homes far more that is pleasant and 
enjoyable than in the tiny cubicles which pass for homes in our 
great cities. 

It is not to be supposed that the farmer of average means can 
purchase fine paintings and works of art, but he can improve his 



ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 107 




a: 



ui 



108 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 




BORDER PLANTING EDGED WITH BULBS AND PERENNIALS 
Fig. 98.— Ensuring continuous bloom from early Summer until late in Fall.— See page 102 



ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 109 

immediate surroundings at very little cost, making the home a 
thing of beauty rather than a hideous collection of purely utilitarian 
conveniences. 

The first aim in the landscape development should be toward an 
orderly arrangement of the barns, dairies, poultry yard and other 
features to be maintained for housing the stock and storing the 
crops. There is beauty as well as convenience in order. With the 
buildings located in their proper relation to each other and to the 
house, and the walk and drive arrangement carefully planned, the 
question of beautification is made quite simple. 

All plantings should be composed of trees and shrubs that are 
very hardy and of easy culture, and for sentimental reasons it is well 
to select the old standard varieties familiar to old-time farms 
everywhere (Fig. 100). 

Among the shrubs the most widely known is the Lilac. Lilacs 
are perfectly hardy and thrive in almost any soil and position. The 
varieties have been greatly improved, so that kinds may now be 
had with single or double flowers and in a wide range of color. 

The Snowball is another favorite always found with the Lilac 
in the old-time farmyard. Other familiar kinds are the old-fashioned 
Sweet Shrub, Golden Bell, Bridal Wreath, Japanese Quince cr Fire 
Bush, Mock Orange, Rose of Sharon and Weigelas. Add to these 
the Hydrangea and we have a selection that covers a long period 
of bloom. 

There is not a place where these old-fashioned and greatly loved 
varieties may not be used to advantage as a means of ornamentation. 
Plant them at the corners of buildings, at fence corners, at interior 
angles, at intersections of walks and drives, and in pairs down the 
straight walk .that leads to barn and garden. 

The farm barn may have an end or side protected from the 
stock, which may be changed from an unsightly aspect to one of 
picturesqueness through the planting of a few hardy shrubs (Fig:.. 
101, 102 and 103). 

Although the truck garden is a strictly utilitarian feature, it is 
quite practical and not an extravagance to provide space for a small 
flower garden between the truck garden and the house, a scit of an 
anteroom to the strictly prosaic feature beyond. 

The flower garden should not be large; it would be an error to 
make it so, and some of the space in the beds should be given over 



no 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 




PYRAMIDAL EVERGREENS IN BORDER PLANTINGS 

Fig. 99.— Vervaene's Arborvitae (Thuya occidentalis^ Vervaeneana) . A good type of pyrami- 
dal evergreen. — See'page 1 02 



ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 111 




ORNAMENTAL PLANTING ON THE FARM 
Fig. 100. — A planting of old-fashioned shrubs around a farm house. — See page 109 




A TYPE OF NEGLECT TOO OFTEN SEEN 
Fig. 101. — Usual type of farm barn, entirely devoid of planting. — See page 109 



12 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 




QUITE DIFFERENT AND ALTOGETHER TO BE PREFERRED 

Fig. 102. — An attractive planting of hardy trees and shrubs against the side of a farm barn. 
A constant pleasure to the farmer and his family. — See page 109 




A FURTHER IDEA OF HOME GROUND IMPROVEMENT 

Fig. 103. — Planting at the intersection of the highway and the road to the farm barn, 
raises the value of farm property. — See page 1 09 



ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 113 








-^ ^ \/ ~\ 



114 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 

to the smaller vegetables and herbs, keeping the flower borders along 
the walks. In the old-time gardens these borders were defined by 
box edging or stone curbing. When stones were used they were 
whitewashed each Spring when the buildings and the fences receive 
their annual coat. 

I recall a charming old garden which had been laid out along 
these lines (Fig. 104). The flower borders w^ere four feet wide and 
the walks, of the same dimension, divided the area into four equal 
rectangles. On the axis of one of the walks, which was a continua- 
tion of a walk paralleling the front of the house, stood an old Catha- 
rine Pear, perched on a little mound, that formed a quiet resting 
place under the overhanging branches. The Pear was the center 
of the little lawn, about thirty feet square, partially enclosed by 
three clumps of Lilacs, and was the dominant note in the scene, 
standing stately and serene. At each corner of the garden and at 
the intersection of the walks were specimen shrubs, sixteen in all, 
and between them, back of the garden beds, were placed the Currant 
and Gooseberry bushes. In the flower beds were planted the herbs, 
and those old-fashioned garden favorites, Paeonies, Chrysanthe- 
mums, Larkspurs, Sweet Rockets, and Flags, preceded in the 
Spring by hundreds of yellow Daff'odils, making a scene worthy of 
reproduction on every farm in the land. 

SUMMARY 

Briefly expressed, the use of ornamental trees and shrubs for the 
embellishment of a scene must be along lines that are both esthetic 
and practical. The selection of a particular plant or group of plants 
for a given position should be for the reason that it best suits that 
place, a point to be determined by a careful study of the best prin- 
ciples of landscape design. Simplicity and repose should be key- 
notes. Avoid the use of too many varieties and only as isolated 
specimens should abnormally shaped plants be admitted. Groups 
should consist of carefully selected units, all blending to make a 
pleasing whole. 

' From a practical viewpoint the success of any planting depends 
largely on the vigor and robustness with which the plants grow. 
Select. plants best suited to the physical conditions in the locality. 
With splendid assortments to choose from in every section it is de- 
cidedly wrong to waste time and effort in trying to nurse along 
plants unsuited to local conditions. 



ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 115 
TREE PLANTING 

All plantings should be preceded by careful preparation of the 
soil. Lawn trees are permanent features and as such every detail 
of the planting should have close attention. This will insure a 
healthy growth and proper development. 

Holes for trees should be at least a foot wider than the spread of 
the roots and at least twenty-four inches deep, unless for a large 
specimen, when it should be proportionately deeper. 

In heavy clay soil, where the water is apt to collect and remain, 
the holes should be dug deep enough to afford good drainage. If 
the clay extends some depth proper drainage may be insured by 
placing broken stone in the bottom of the holes. 

Tree holes should be made as large or larger at the bottom than 
they are at the top (Figs. 105 and 106). Too often holes just the 
reverse are prepared. 

All broken or bruised roots should be cut off clean. 

Holes should be sufficiently large to allow of spreading all roots 
in a natural position. 

Good soil should be provided for the planting, and very dry and 
fine soil worked in carefully around the roots and thoroughly tamped 
so that no spaces remain. 

Avoid planting too deeply (Fig. 107). Trees should be set just 
a very little lower than they have been growing in the nursery. 

Avoid mounding up right around the stem after planting (Fig. 
108). When this little hump gets dry and hard it makes a shed 
for that water which should penetrate to the roots. 

A slight depression is much better and provides a cup for holding 
the moisture (Fig. 109). After planting, a good mulching over 
the root areas will conserve the moisture and greatly benefit the 
tree. 

If the tree is three or five inches or more in caliper set wire 
stays to keep it straight and to protect against any loosening of the 
roots (Fig. 110). 

PRUNING 

The tops of all trees should be reduced at least one-third by 
pruning back when transplanting. This will overcome somewhat 
the loss of feeding roots and conserve the amount of sap in the trees 
until new feeding roots are formed. 



116 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 



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ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 117 



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ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 119 

All such pruning should be done carefully, making the cuts 
clean and close up to a bud or stem, so that no stubs remain to die 
back and cause injury. Hard wooded trees such as the Oaks and 
Hickories must be cut back hard as they are apt to have fewer feed- 
ing roots than the softer wooded trees. Do not waste time and 
material on a poor specimen. Secure good, healthy trees with good 
root system and, if possible, trees that have been frequently trans- 
planted. 

TREE PLANTING WITH DYNAMITE 

The blowing of tree holes with dynamite is to be recommended 
from the standpoint of economy alone. A good, big tree hole is 
much more easily dug if the ground has first been loosened with 
dynamite. 

The loosening of the soil aids root growth and affords easy pene- 
tration of moisture to the root feeding areas. 

One-half a stick of forty per cent, dynamite is usually sufficient 
for a hole. 

One thing to avoid in planting trees in dynamited holes is the 
pot hole (Fig. Ill), formed by the gases at the time of the explosion. 
Holes are not dug deeply enough after the explosion and this hole 
is allowed to remain. After a few rains have loosened the soil above 
it drops down to fill up the hole, leaving roots uncovered, often 
resulting in the loss of the tree. All dynamited holes should be gone 
over carefully with a long pole or bar so that the earth will settle 
into any deep holes that may have been formed. 

MOVING LARGE TREES 

On new estates quick results are often desired and may be secured 
by the planting of large specimen trees (Fig. 112), 

The same principles apply to the moving of these large specimens 
as apply in all instances of tree transplanting. The trees must be 
carefully dug, preserving the small feeding roots even though they 
extend for a distance of from fifteen to twenty feet away from the 
trunk. As these are uncovered they should be tied up in bundles 
and bent out of the way, and protected with straw or burlap care- 
fully wrapped around the roots. 

If the trees are very large and heavy special apparatus must be 
secured for their proper handling. 

The method of moving large trees with a six or eight foot ball 



120 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 

of earth, cutting off all roots extending beyond, is not as satisfactory 
as tree moving where the roots are combed out and preserved. 

ROOT PRUNING 

When it is desired to move a large tree from one portion of the 
estate to another, the specimen should be root pruned at least 
one year in advance of the transplanting. This is accomplished by 
digging a trench about twelve inches wide, five or six feet away from 
the trunk, or a distance proportionate with the size of the tree, and 
filling the trench with soil and well-rotted manure to induce an 
added growth of small fibrous roots. 

When moving large trees the head should be reduced somewhat 
to balance the loss in roots. 

CARE OF TREES AND SHRUBS 

Much of the beauty in plant life is in the healthy, vigorous 
growth, enabling the tree or shrub to put forth its best effort in 
pleasing foliage and abundant bloom and fruit. Continual and 
systematic attention should be given to the proper nourishing, 
watering and pruning of all trees and plants. The majority of our 
plants are existing under more or less unfavorable conditions and 
need this attention. 

If plants are kept in a healthy, vigorous condition the suscepti- 
bility to insect, fungus, and scale attacks will be reduced to a 
minimum.. 

Trees planted in the lawn should have the sod removed from 
about them occasionally and a feeding of hardwood ashes, humus or 
well rotted manure applied. Such applications should extend to the 
area of the spread of the branches and not be confined to a very 
limited area immediately around the trunk. 

When trees are kept mulched the mulching should be loosened 
occasionally to insure a free circulation of air. 

All dead branches should be removed from trees, and all inter- 
fering limbs. This should be attended to at regular intervals. 
Neglect of proper pruning often causes irreparable damage to trees 
through heavy winds or ice storms. 

All flowering shrubs should be properly and systematically 
pruned to insure an abundance of flower and fruit. Do not cut 
shrubs back during the Winter regardless of the variety or blooming 
season. Spring blooming shrubs, which of a necessity must form 



ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 121 




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122 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 

flowering wood the season previous, should be pruned just after 
they have flowered. Lilacs, Golden Bell, Japanese Quince and 
similar Spring blooming shrubs are in this class. The pruning 
should not be too severe, simply enough to keep the plants in shape 
and to allow sunlight and air to all parts. The Fall flowering shrubs, 
such as the Rose of Sharon and Hydrangeas, bloom on wood made 
during the immediate Summer. Such shrubs should have a vigorous 
Winter, or early Spring pruning. 

INSECT PESTS 

Insect pests attacking trees and shrubs are mostly of two kinds: 
those that injure by eating the foliage, such as the Elm Leaf Beetle, 
and those that injure by sucking, such as the various scales and 
plant lice. 

For the leaf chewing insects a spraying with some poisonous 
substance that will readily adhere to the leaves is most effective. 
Paris green and arsenate of lead are recommended. These sub- 
stances may be purchased in commercial form, prepared for such 
use, and accompanied by full instructions for proper application. 

For scales and plant lice some remedy that kills by contact must 
be applied. Kerosene and soap emulsions are the best. 

A wide band of burlap tacked around the tree with an overlap 
is very useful in arresting the progress of caterpillars. Such over- 
laps should be turned frequently and the caterpillars destroyed. 




THE FLOWER GARDEN '23 



CHAPTER VII 



THE FLOWER GARDEN 

The highest personal note in the art of landscape design is the 
flower garden, and no scheme of landscape development is com- 
plete, no matter how small the property, which does not provide 
space for a garden. It is in the garden that our individual fancies 
as to the choice and arrangement of flowers may be indulged. There 
we may have a profusion of flowers, harmony of color, charm of ef- 
fect and, above all, seclusion and restful quiet; for the growing of 
flowers is indeed the simplest yet most satisfying of pleasures. 

We would emphasize again that fitness is the very foundation 
of all artistic excellence and in none of the arts is this more appli- 
cable than in garden design. The flower garden, although a separate 
unit in the general landscape, and subject in itself to a greater free- 
dom of treatment, must be in harmony with its surroundings. If 
the house is of simple design simplicity must dominate the garden. 
That the charming box-bordered gardens of Colonial days were so 
in keeping with the residence was due largely to the simplicity of 
design— gardens with not only unpretentious outlines, but the variety 
of plants so limited that very simple color combinations resulted. 

It is most gratifying to witness, since more attention is being 
given to the arrangement of the home surroundings, that the mis- 
cellaneous beds, which in former years were scattered over the lawn 
in a most heterogeneous fashion, are gradually being supplanted by 
the more orderly arrangement of plantations confined to the boun- 
dary lines of the property, bordered driveways or paths, or within 
enclosed areas, as formal or informal gardens. 

CLASSIFICATION OF GARDENS 

Enclosed gardens are by no means of modern origin. Space 
may not be given here to a full classification of various types of gar- 
dens, but it will be well to consider briefly those which have had great 
mfluence in the development of our present day garden. Of these, 
the Italian, French and English gardens are most important. 



124 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 

The Italian gardens did not depend on floral ornamentation for 
their chief beauty. While not entirely devoid of flowers they were 
mostly appreciated for their architectural embellishments. Built 
upon three levels, ample opportunity was afforded for retaining walls, 
capped with balustrades of the most ornate character. The use of 
water in the garden was brought to its greatest perfection by the 
Italian architects. Remarkable water effects were achieved within 
a small compass and with little quantity. 

The French gardens were also very architectural in design, but 
more extensive in area. Much consideration was given to vistas, 
particularly along diagonal lines. Many plants trimmed to forma! 
outlines were used. Even the trees were treated as units in the 
architectural scheme, to be pruned and fashioned in harmony with 
the structural parts of the garden. 

The Italian and French gardens, though softened by the elements 
of time and made interesting by the charm of romance, are not so 
satisfying as are the English gardens. The English garden exists 
more for its flowers and, although not devoid of architectural fea- 
tures, the masonry is softened by the abundant display of flowering 
plants. It is from the English garden and its flowers that we shall 
derive the greatest inspiration for our own gardens. 

It is to the flower garden as an enclosed feature, of formal or 
mformal design, that these notes will chiefly apply. 

The flower garden should be treated as a unit in the general 
scheme and the principal views of the garden should be considered 
from the house. It should be an enclosure separated from the lawn 
by a wall or hedge. Such a scheme provides privacy and seclusion 
for those who would walk or work among the flowers; it is a pro- 
tection to the growing plants and, in concealing this feature from 
without, leaves something to the imagination and more to be appre- 
ciated from a vantage point in the house. 

GARDEN DIMENSIONS AND DESIGN 
— GARDEN ENTRANCE 

The principal entrance to the garden (Fig. 113) should be from 
the house and on an axis with some important door or window. It 
is from this point that we receive our first impression, and it should 
be so featured that the whole scene unfolded creates in the be- 
holder that delight, fascination, allurement and complete sense of 



THE FLOWER GARDEN 



125 




126 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 

rest which afford to lovers of nature the highest type of enjoy- 
ment. The garden should radiate an atmosphere of hospitality, 
creating an irresistible desire to stroll within and enjoy all the 
wealth of form and fragrance of foliage and flower. 

The garden will always be more restful if placed on a level below 
the house grades (Figs. 114 and 114A), requiring steps for the 
descent. 

Definiteness may be given to the garden entrance by an arch 
formed of plants in the enclosing hedge, or of metal or wood, fram- 
ing some enticing water feature beyond. 

Should it be necessary to place the garden on a higher level the 
approach should be broad and easy. Step risers should never be 
more than six inches and the tread should be at least fourteen inches. 

The dimensions and shape of the garden are matters which will 
be influenced more or less by the residence and the configuration of 
the ground. The area of the garden, however, should always ex- 
ceed that covered by the house. Where the property is rather 
narrow the greater dimension of the garden should extend in the 
direction of the greater dimension of the property. 

When planning the garden the amount of care necessary for the 
proper upkeep should be borne in mind and the space designed 
accordingly, as it is necessary that the garden should at all times be 
in as nearly perfect condition as possible. 

A flower garden adjoining a house should have some space 
between it and the house proper as the foreground to the floral scene 
beyond. 

The rectangular design of beds in gardens possesses the greatest 
character and displays the plantations within the beds to the best 
advantage. This is specially so with the oblong enclosures. In 
square or nearly square gardens (Fig. 115), curved lines give a greater 
variety, especially within a small compass. 

To add to the interest the design should always include a central 
feature, either a pool, bird bath, or even a sundial, although the 
latter is more appropriately placed in a more isolated position. 

The central feature may be oblong, circular, elliptical, or a com- 
bination of the square and the circle. 

In some instances it is advantageous, where the distance is not 
too great, to extend the garden from the house to the party line 
(Fig. 116 — See page 136), arranging it so that it will come between 
the pleasure grounds and the service portion. 



THE FLOWER GARDEN 



127 




128 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 



KEY TO PLANTING PLAN.-Fig. 1 14A-See pages 130 and 131 



Key 

No. 

I 


Quo 
8 


2 


10 


3 

4 


9 
10 


5 
6 


IS 

7 


7 

8 

9 

10 


7 
5 
6 
6 


11 


7 


12 


12 


13 


6 


14 
15 
i6 


5 

7 
II 


17 


8 



^3 


7 


-^4 


7 


^3 


7 


26 


10 


27 


9 


28 


7 


29 


S 


30 


5 


31 


II 


32 


II 


33 


5 


34 


9 


35 


10 


36 


II 


37 


13 


38 


10 


39 


2 


40 


2 


41 


2 


42 


12 


43 




44 


6 


45 


7 


46 


5 


47 


9 


48 


5 


49 


9 


50 


5 


51 


7 


52 


9 


53 


3 


54 


5 


55 


4 


56 


5 


57 


5 


58 


5 


59 


7 


60 


12 


61 


7 


62 


7 


63 


7 



Aconitum Napellus 

Delphinium chinense 

Pentstemon barbatus hybrids 

Gypsophila acutifolia 

Coreopsis lanceolata 

Helenium Hoopesii 

Aconitum Napellus 

Achillea, The Pearl 

Phlox, Miss Lingard 

Phlox Sieboldi 

Aconitum Napellus 

Lupinus polyphyllus 

Aster leevis 

Hollyhocks Allegheny 

Aster novae angliae rosea 

Delphinium elatum 

Anchusa Italica Dropmo-c var. 

Physostegia virginica 

Delphinium elatum 

Delphinium elatum 

Boltonia latisquama 

Anchusa Italica Dropniore var. 

Delphinium elatum 

Aster novi belgii climax 

Hollyhocks AUegheiy 

Heliopsis Pitcheriana 

Aconitum Napellus 

Phlox, Miss Lingard 

Phlox, Rheinlander 

Phlox Sieboldi 

Aconitum Napellus 

Chrysanthemum Golden Mme. Martha 

Aster laevis 

Hollyhocks, double red 

Aquilegia chrysantha 

Phlox W. C. Egan 

Chrysanthemum St. Illoria 

Phlox Queen 

Juniperus Cannarti 

Juniperus Pfitzeriana 

Juniperus Cannarti 

Dianthus barbatus Newport Pink 

Godetias (annual) 

Campanula persicifolia 

Iris aurea 

Gypsophila paniculata 

Digitalis purpurea 

Aquilegia caerulea 

Phlox amaena 

Pentstemon barbatus 

Sedum spectabile 

Aquilegia chrysantha 

Chrysanthemum Julia Lagravere 

Phlox Baron von Dedem 

Calliopsis (annual) 

Anemone Japonica Queen Charlotte 

Papaver orientale 

Doronicum excelsum 

Delphinium chinmise alba 

Phlox Independence 

Phlox Coquelicot 

Dianthus barbatus, white 

Gaillardia grandiflora 



Common Name 
Monkshood 
Chinese Larkspur 
Beard's Tongue 
Baby's Breath 
Tickseed 
Early Sneezewort 
Monkshood 
Double White Yarrow 
Early Phlox White 
Tall Vermilion Phlox 
Monkshood 
Lupine 

Lavender Hardy Aster 
Fringed Hollyhocks 
Pink Hardy Aster 
Tall Larkspur 
Alkanet 
Obedient Plant 
Tall Larkspur 
Tall Larkspur 
Starwort 
Alkanet 
Tall Larkspur 
Pink Hardy Aster 
Fringed Hollyhocks 
Orange Sunflower 
Monkshood 
Early Phlox, white 
Salmon Pink Hardy Phlox 
Vermilion Hardy Phlox 
Monkshood 

Yellow Hardy Chrysanthemum 
Lavender Hardy Aster 
Double Red Hollyhocks 
Yellow Columbine 
Light Lavender Phlox 
Pink Hardy Chrysanthemum 
White Phlox 
Pyramidal Cedar 
Spreading Cedar 
Pyramidal Cedar 
Pink Sweet William 

Peach-leaved Bellflower 
Yellow Flag 
Baby's Breath 
' Foxglove 
Rocky Mountain Columbine 
Early Phlox Pink 
Beard's Tongue 
Live Forever 
Yellow Columbine 
Red Hardy Chrysanthemum 
Red Hardy Phlox 

Pink Japanese Anemone 
Oriental Poppy 
Leopard's Bane 
White Chinese Larkspur 
White Hardy Phlox 
Scarlet Hardy Phlox 
White Sweet William 
Blanket Flower 



THE FLOWER GARDEN 



129 



KEY TO PLANTING PLAN.-Fig. 1 1 4A-Continued 



Key 








No. 


Quart. 


Variety 


Common Name 


64 


7 


Chrysanthemum Golden Mme. Martha 


Golden Chrysanthemum 


65 


5 


Sedum spectabile " Brilliant " 


Live Forever 


66 


7 


Coreopsis lanceolata 


Tickseed 


67 


9 


Phlox amoena 


Early Pink Phlox 


68 


5 


Iris Kaempferi 


Japanese Iris 


69 


7 


Gypsophila elegans 


Baby's Breath 


70 


7 


Aquilegia canadensis 


Red Columbine 


71 


5 


Dianthus Newport Pink 


Pink Sweet William 


72 


7 


Dianthus barbatus white 


White Sweet William 


73 


5 


Coreopsis lanceolata 


Tickseed 


74 


5 


Chrysanthemum Autumn Queen 


Pink Hardy Chrysanthemum 


75 


S 


Dianthus Newport Pink 


Pink Sweet William 


76 


7 


Rudbeckia Newmanni 


Black-eyed Susan 


77 


9 


Gaillardia grandiflora 


Blanket Flower 


78 


3 


Heuchera sanguinea 


Coral Bells 


79 


10 


Gypsophila paniculata 


Baby's Breath 


So 


7 


Phlox divaricata 


Early Blue Phlox 


8i 


S 


Veronica longifolia subsessilis 


Speedwell 


82 


10 


Delphinium elatum 


Tall Larkspur 


83 


10 


Gypsophila paniculata 


Baby's Breath 


84. 


5 


Aster amellus elegans 


Early Aster 


85 


5 


Platycodon grandiflorum 


Bellflower 


86 


5 


Aconitum Napellus 


Monkshood 


87 


5 


Delphinium chinense 


Chinese Larkspur 


88 


5 


Pentstemon Torreyi 


Beard's Tongue 


89 


7 


Lupinus polyphyllus 


Lupine 


90 


5 


Scahiosa japonica 


Blue Bonnet 


91 


7 


Delphinium, Gold Medal Hybrids 


Tall Larkspur 


92 


5 


Aster novi belgii Heiderose 


Hardy Aster 


93 


5 


Iris pallida dalmatica 


Lavender Iris 


94 


5 


Coreopsis lanceolata grandiflora 


Tickseed 


95 


3 


Campanula glomerata 


Clustered Bellflower 


96 


7 


Iris Kaempferi 


Japanese Iris 


97 


7 


Phlox divaricata 


Early Blue Phlox 


98 


5 


Delphinium datum 


Tall Larkspur 


99 


7 


Veronica longifolia subsessilis 


Speedwell 


100 


12 


Rose Christine Wright 


Climbing Pink Rose 


lOI 


5 


Stokesia cyanea 


Stoke's Aster 


102 


S 


Gypsophila paniculata 


Baby's Breath 


103 


7 


Aquilegia vulgaris 


Columbine 


104 


7 


Phlox Miss Lingard 


Early White Phlox 


105 


7 


Centaurea montana 


Hardy Cornflower 


106 


5 


Dianthus plumarius 


Snow Queen 


107 


7 


Iris pallida dalmatica 


Lavender Flag, White, Pink 


108 


5 


Dianthus plumarius Homer 


Hardy Pink 


109 


10 


Plumbago Larpentae 


Lead wort 


IIO 


5 


Platycodon grandiflorum 


Bellflower 


III 


5 


Coreopsis grandiflora 


Tickseed 


112 


9 


Iris Kaempferi 


Japanese Iris 


113 


12 


Aster blue (annuals) 




114 


3 


Paeon ia I'Esperance 


Pink Peony 


115 


S 


Funkia caerulca 


Blue Day Lily 


116 


10 


Delphinium formosum 


Tall Larkspur 


117 


12 


Lilium candidum 


Madonna Lily 


118 


5 


Potentilla Vulcan 


Crimson Cinquefoil 


119 


7 


Chrysanthemum Autumn Queen 


Pink Chrysanthemum 


120 


7 


Aquilegia vulgaris 


Columbine 


121 


8 


Dianthus barbatus, white 


Sweet William 


122 


5 


Delphinium chinense 


Chinese Larkspur 


123 


10 


Geum coccincum 


Avens 


124 


10 


Plumbago Larpentae 


Leadwort 


125 


5 


Platycodon grandiflorum 


Bellflower 


126 


9 


Dianthus plumarius Homer 


Hardy Pink 


127 


7 


Coreopsis grandiflora 


Tickseed 


128 


10 . 


Iris Kaempferi 


Japanese Iris 


129 


7 


Iris pallida dalmatica 


Lavender Flag 


130 


10 


Lilium candidum 


Madonna Lily 


131 


10 


Delphinium flormosum 


Dark Blue Larkspur 


132 


10 


Potentilla Vulcan 


Crimson Cinquefoil 



30 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 




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THE FLOWER GARDEN 



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132 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 



KEY TO PLANTING PLAN.-Fig. 1 I4A-Continued 



Key 






No. 


Quart. 


Variety 


133 


7 


Aquilegia vulgaris 


134 


5 


Funkia ovatus 


135 


9 


Dianthus barbatus 


136 


9 


Chrysanthemum Autumn Queen 


137 


5 


Linum perenne 


138 


7 


Centaurea montana 


139 


7 


Delphinium elatum 


140 


10 


Aquilegia vulgaris 


141 


10 


Gypsophila paniculata 


142 


10 


Clematis Davidiana 


143 


5 


Veronica longifolia subsessilis 


144 


10 


Phlox divaricata 


I4S 


7 


Campanula Dahurica 


146 


6 


Stokesia cyanea 


147 


5 


Coreopsis longifolia grandiflora 


148 


5 


Aster Iffivis 


149 


5 


Delphinium, Gold Medal Hybrids 


ISO 


7 


Lupinus polyphyllus 


ISI 


7 


Pentstemon barbatus hybrids 


IS2 


8 


Iris pallida dalmatica 


153 


II 


Platycodon grandiflorum 


154 


5 


Aconitum Napellus 


155 


10 


Scabiosa japonica 


IS6 


9 


Delphinium elatum 


157 


10 


Gypsophila panirulata 


158 


7 


X'eronica longifolia subsessilis 


159 


5 


Delphinium chinense 


160 


7 


Phlox amoena 


161 


5 


Sedum spectabile 


162 


10 


Geum coccineum 


163 


10 


Aquilegia chrysantha 


164 


S 


Chrysanthemum Julia Lagravfire 


165 


9 


Pentstemon barbatus 


166 


8 


Phlox Rheinstrom 


167 


10 


Gypsophila paniculata 


168 


10 


Digitalis purpurea 


169 


9 


Iris Kaempferi 


170 


10 


Iris aurea 


171 


5 


Chrysanthemum Golden Mme. Martha 


172 


10 


Dianthus Newport Pink 


173 


7 


Aquilegia chrysantha 


174 


7 


Papaver orientale 


175 


7 


Delphinium chinense alba 


176 


5 


Anemone japonica Queen Charlotte 


177 


7 


Doronicum excelsum 


178 


5 


Phlox Coquelicot 


179 


9 


Digitalis purpurea alba 


180 


II 


Gaillardia grandiflora 


181 


10 


Dianthus barbatus, white 


182 


10 


Gladiolus Wm. Falconer 


183 


5 


Chrysanthemum Golden Mme. Martha 


184 


5 


Sedum spectabile 


18S 


9 


Coreopsis lanceolata 


186 


9 


Phlox amoena 


187 


5 


Iris Kaempferi 


188 


7 


Gypsophila paniculata 


189 


7 


Aquilegia canadensis 


190 


5 


Chrysanthemum Autumn Queen 


191 


7 


Dianthus barbatus, white 


192 


5 


Coreopsis grandiflora 


193 


7 


Gaillardia grandiflora 


194 


7 


Pseonia Van Houttei 


195 


5 


Rudbeckia fulgida 


196 


7 


Heuchera sanguineum 


197 


10 


Gypsophila paniculata 


198 


12 


Buxus pyramidalis 


199 


8 


Juniperus Cannarti 


200 


3000 


Dwarf Box for edging 


201 


48 


Tall Pink Geraniums 


202 


4 


Crataegus Oxycantha 



Common Name 
Columbine 
Blue Day Lily 
Sweet William 
Pink Hardy Chrysanthemum 
Hardy Flax 
Hardy Cornflower 
Tall Larkspur 
Blue Columbine 
Baby's Breath 
Perennial Clematis 
Speedwell 
Early Blue Phlox 
Bellflower 
Stoke's Aster 
Tickseed 

Hardy Aster Lavender 
Tall Larkspur 
Lupines 
Beard's Tongue 
Lavender Flag 
Japanese Bellflower 
Monkshood 
Blue Bonnet 
Tall Larkspur 
Baby's Breath 
Speedwell 
Chinese Larkspur 
Early Pink Phlox 
Live Forever 
Avens 

Yellow Columbine 
Red Chrysanthemum 
Beard's Tongue 
Salmon Pink Hardy Phlox 
Baby's Breath 
Foxgloves 
Japanese Iris 
Yellow Flags 
Golden Chrysanthemum 
Pink Sweet William 
Yellow Columbine 
Oriental Poppy 
White Chinese Larkspur 
Pink Japanese Anemone 
Leopard's Bane 
Scarlet Phlox 
White Foxglove 
Blanket Flower 
Sweet William 

Golden Chrysanthemum 

Live Forever 

Tickseed 

Dwarf Early Pink Phlox 

Japanese Iris 

Baby's Breath 

Red Columbine 

Pink Hardy Chrysanthemum 

Sweet William 

Tickseed 

Blanket Flower 

Peony 

Black-eyed Susan 

Coral Bells 

Baby's Breath 

Pyramidal Box, 4-5' 

Pyramidal Cedar, 4-5' 

6-8" 

Standard Eng. Hawthorn, 6" 
stems 



THE FLOWER GARDEN 133 

The entire garden area should be on one plane if it is possible to 
so construct it at not too great an expense. This level should be 
somewhat below the established grade of the house line (Fig. 113). 
Where the slope of the ground is too steep for such treatment, two 
or three levels may be established. A garden constructed on dif- 
ferent levels may be made very interesting, as it affords an oppor- 
tunity to introduce many architectural features and to vary greatly 
the planting on the different planes. 

GARDEN BACKGROUND 

It is important to consider the garden from the picturesque point 
of view. This will include not only the arrangement of the interior 
beds but, quite as important, the setting of the surrounding plan- 
tations. The background (Fig. 117) should be dense, of a varied 
assortment of plants. Where space permits, and the height of the 
plants will not interfere with the view, make a background of White 
Pine, Hemlock, Birch, Beech, Maple and Ash. Such a combination 
will give pleasing contrast at all seasons of the year, especially in 
the Fall, when the foliage of the deciduous trees turns to brilliant 
shades of red and yellow. On extensive grounds such a back- 
ground planting may be placed some distance from the garden and 
particularly so when there is a little rise in the ground beyond the 
end of the garden. 

When the garden area extends to the party line it is necessary 
to provide a high hedge or wall which will rise above the horizon. 
If a wall is used it should be partly clothed with vines as green is 
the most satisfactory garden background (Fig. 118). It is pos- 
sible sometimes to so locate the garden that a natural background 
on the adjoining property may be taken advantage of. 

A pleasing effect may often be secured in gardens enclosed by a 
wall, by introducing flowering trees and shrubs in the plantations 
immediately without, so that the branches may be trained to hang 
over the wall to meet the floral ensemble within. 

GARDEN ENCLOSURES 

The garden in the sense that it is used in these paragraphs refers 
to a portion of the estate set aside as an enclosed feature. An en- 
closure provides privacy and seclusion to those who would walk or 
work among the flowers; it is a protection to the growing plants, 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 

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THE FLOWER GARDEN 135 



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THE FLOWER GARDEN 



137 




138 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 

affords a background and, in concealing the garden from without, 
leaves something to the imagination and more to be appreciated 
from a vantage point in the liouse. 

Garden enclosures may be of stone, brick, stucco or plants in 
the form of a hedge. 

HEIGHT or GARDEN ENCLOSURES 

The height of outer garden enclosures will vary according to 
the surroundings. Where the outlook is not particularly attractive 
they may be six or seven feet high. High walls are also a necessity 
in some locaHties as a protection to the plants. Where it is thought 
best to maintain views of the surrounding landscape a wall three to 
five feet high is sufficient. Subordinate garden walls should not 
be mxre than three to four feet high. On a small place, where the 
scene must be made within the enclosure, a high wall is necessary. 



GARDEN WALLS 

When walls are adopted as an enclosure for the garden they 
should always be of the same material as the house. If the house 
walls are stuccoed the sides of the garden wall should also be stuccoed, 
though, to provide a slight contrast, the piers and coping may be of 
brick. This refers to gardens which are adjacent to residences. 
When they are set apart, more or less isolated from the house, 
the material may differ from that in the building. 

When walls of stone, brick, or stucco are used for the garden 
enclosures they should be designed along artistic lines and be in 
perfect harmony with the scene to be created. 



GRAY SANDSTONE WALLS 

Soft gray sandstone (Fig. 118) with an occasional marking of red 
and orange is the most pleasing stone for the enclosing walls. These 
should not be less than eighteen inches thick with a footing course 
to project six inches beyond on each side, making a thickness of 
thirty inches. The depth of the footing should not be less than 
eight inches. The depth of the foundation below the frost line will 
depend on the latitude. In Philadelphia and vicinity the founda- 
tion should extend to a depth of three feet. 



THE FLOWER GARDEN 



139 




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140 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 

Stone walls with mortar joints should be less finished in texture 
than the house walls. The joints should be raked out to a depth 
of from two to three inches. The shadows produced by this treat- 
ment have a softening effect and the vines, extending their clinging 
tendrils into the interstices, seem to be more firmly fixed to the 
supporting structure. 

COPING 

The coping should be of stone similar to that in the body of the 
wall (Fig. 118), with a projection of two to three inches, according to 
the roughness of the face. This refers to a coping of stones laid flat. 
If the coping stones are set on edge they should be set flush with the 
sides of the wall. The coping should be level along the top. 

The irregular or so-called scotched copmg is not at all satisfactory 
for a garden enclosure, as it is a line of agitation and most unrestful. 

BRICK WALLS 

The brick wall (Fig. 119) as a garden enclosure is not so pleasing 
from an esthetic point of view as those of other materials. Be- 
cause of the color it does not make a good background for many of 
the flowers. If brick is used a dark shade should be selected and 
laid with a broad mortar joint. 

A brick wall should not be less than twelve inches thick and 
should be laid in cement mortar on a good foundation of stone or 
concrete extending not less than four inches on each side beyond 
the face of the finished wall. To economize on a quantity of brick 
the wall may be paneled and piers placed at intervals of from ten to 
twelve feet apart, using a nine-inch wall between them. 

An effective and practical wall may be constructed by laying 
the brick lengthwise, four inches thick, with a two-inch opening 
between the ends. In this construction the piers should be placed 
eight feet apart. 

The coping for a brick wall may be of brick on edge, molded 
brick, brick laid on an angle of 45 degrees, cement cut stone, or tile. 
The coping should have a projection of not more than an inch on 
each side of the wall. A coping set flush* is quite agreeable. All 
brick walls should be clothed with clinging vines trained over the 
top to break the line and soften the effect. 



THE FLOWER GARDEN 



141 




7 



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142 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 




THE FLOWER GARDEN 143 



THE STUCCO WALL 



The stucco wall may be laid on stone, brick, hollow tile, or 
expanded metal. The usual method is to construct a rough wall 
on which is laid the first or scratch coat. When this has very nearly 
set a second coat of the color and texture desired is applied and 
finished. 

If the rough wall is built of brick it should not be less than nine 
inches thick, with a firm foundation of eighteen to twenty inches 
of stone or concrete, extending below the frost line usually from 
two to three feet. 

When building a stucco wall on brick a good effect may be se- 
cured by having a brick base and brick coping. The base to con- 
sist of a row of brick on end, projecting one quarter inch beyond the 
finished mortar surface. The coping should be constructed of a row 
of brick on edge with a very slight projection on each side of the wall. 

If hollow tile is used for the rough wall eight-inch tile may be 
used for walls less than five feet high; for walls above that, twelve 
inch tiles should be used. 

The brick base and coping may be effectively used with the 
hollow tile. Foundation should be the same as is used for brick. 

Rough stone walls for stucco should not be less than sixteen 
inches thick for walls five feet high or less. For walls above five feet 
the thickness should be at least eighteen inches. Foundation should 
be of stone or concrete, twenty to twenty-two inches thick and ex- 
tending below the frost line. 

The most economical stucco wall is that laid on expanded metal 
(Fig. 120) supported by channel iron set at intervals of one foot, 
with four channel irons set at intervals of eight feet in the form of a 
square, six inches apart, as a reinforcement. The cement mortar 
is worked through the openings in the expanded metal and, after 
it becomes hardened, the scratch coat is applied to the other side, 
the mortar clinging to the keys formed by the mortar worked through 
the openings. The finish coat of the texture and finish desired is 
then applied. 

The posts for such a wall should extend to a depth of two feet 
and be set in concrete. For the remainder of the wall it is only 
necessary to have the mortar extend six inches below the grade 
line. 

The coping should be of mortar two and one-half inches thick, 



144 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 

beveled on top, with a projection of about one-half inch on each 
side. All stucco walls should be covered with quick growing vines. 
Boston Ivy (Ampelopsis Veitchii), Red-berried Euonymus {Euonymus 
vegetus), and English Ivy (Hedera helix) are suitable. 

DRY STONE WALLS 

The rubble stone wall of field boulders is most satisfactory, 
and, when partly covered by vines, is highly picturesque. The 
dry wall may also be used to enclose the garden, especially in loca- 
tions where good rock is to be had on the ground. When used for 
this purpose they should batter or break back from each side, vines 
to be planted along the full length at irregular intervals. The vines 
should not be allowed to cover the entire wall. Rather, for reasons 
of contrast, and to show decidedly the limitations of the garden 
and the formidableness of the retaining and supporting walls, quite 
good stretches of it should be left uncovered. 

Rubble walls (Fig. 121) are particularly good where a retaining 
wall is required to maintain an embankment. The dry wall is less 
expensive than one laid in mortar and gives a greater latitude for 
ornamental treatment. Quarried stone or stone gathered on the 
property may be used for this purpose. The larger the stones the 
better. If the stones are from a quarry they should be as long as 
it is possible to secure them. 

The dry wall should have a batter of not less than one inch to 
the foot, and where it is proposed to use Alpine plants in the inter- 
stices it is better to have a batter of three inches to the foot. The 
building of a dry wall for plants is given in greater detail in the 
chapter on Rock Plants. 

HEDGES 

The hedges of various plants are much less expensive and fulfil 
many requirements as a dividing line between lawn and garden. 
The Privet hedge is the most popular, as its quick growth and dark 
green leafage form an excellent background in a short period of 
time. The California Privet {Ligustrnm ovaUJoliwn), which is most 
frequently used, is not hardy in some latitudes; the tops are occa- 
sionally killed to the ground in Philadelphia, and instances are re- 
ported of the same damage being done in Kentucky. For cold 
latitudes the variety Ligustrum Ibota is more satisfactory. The 



THE FLOWER GARDEN 



145 




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146 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 

Ligustrum Regelianum is an excellent hedge plant where it is de 
sired to have a more picturesque enclosure. This plant is most at- 
tractive as a boundary to a wild garden, the lights and shadows 
being highly contrasted, giving a pleasing variety to this formal fea- 
ture more in tune with naturalistic surrounding. The variety 
Ligustrum amurense is much the best variety to use south of 
Washington; it rarely loses its leaves during the Winter and, in 
the Carolinas, Tennessee and Georgia it is evergreen. 

The Hemlock Spruce (Tsuga canadensis) (Fig. 122) hedge has 
been little used of late years, probably on account of its costliness, 
certainly not because it lacks beauty of outline or texture. The 
color is excellent as a background and, after growing to the re- 
quired height, it is much more formidable in appearance than the 
deciduous hedges. For quick effect the Arborvitse (Thuya occident- 
alis) is most valuable. It is practicable to secure specimens of 
this variety of any height up to seven feet, which is an advantage 
for instances where it is desired to have an immediate effect. 
The color is not so good for a background as plants of a darker 
shade of green but, nevertheless, is recommended as a hedge 
plant of merit. 

The general character of the garden will be improved by using 
piers at the corners and entrance. It adds dignity to the scenes 
and defines the outline more clearly. In large gardens, where a 
long line of hedge is somewhat monotonous and at times irregular 
in alignment, it is well to construct piers at regular intervals, for 
variety, and to maintain a more regular line than is otherwise 
possible. 

RETAINING WALLS 

If it is found advisable to construct the garden on more than one 
level, much thought should be given to the selection of material 
and the design of the necessary steps and retaining walls. 

How much more effective is a treatment of retaining walls (Fig. 
121) than the slope, so generally adopted for each succeeding level ! 
Such slopes are difficult to mow and, in a dry Summer, the turf burns 
out badly. 

The use of stone as retaining walls between garden levels is not 
so generally adopted as it should be. The dry stone wall is especi- 
ally worthy of greater use. The foundations of garden walls should 
always extend at least two feet six inches below grade and batter 



THE FLOWER GARDEN 



147 





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THE FLOWER GARDEN 149 

two inches to the foot. The thickness of retaining walls will de- 
pend on the height it is necessary to make them. As a general 
rule, a thickness at the base of one-half the height will be found 
satisfactory. A great deal depends, however, on the physical struc- 
ture of the soil: a sandy, slippery soil will require a stronger wall 
than a hard, clayey soil, the latter being more self-retaining. Given 
a retaining wall with a northwest exposure, a scheme of wall plant- 
ing is possible; pockets may be left in the wall and filled with soil 
for plants. Alyssum saxatile, Heuchera sanguineum, Sedums, 
Arabis albida, Aquilegias, Gypsophila, Valeriana, Santolina, and 
many other plants, are suitable for such a purpose. 



GARDEN STEPS 

Garden steps (Fig. 123) built of stone or brick require a greater 
breadth of treatment than is necessary for these features in connec- 
tion with buildings. The risers should be close to six inches, and 
the tread at least fourteen inches in width. 

Steps either approaching the garden, or within the enclosure, may 
be built with cheek blocks at the ends or with the ends built into the 
slope and planted with Ivy or Euonymus to cover the raw appear- 
ance. This is more pleasing than the harsh lines of the cheek 
blocks. 

PIERS 

All retaining boundary walls should terminate in piers and 
the corners and entrances (Fig. 118) of walls and hedges should be 
defined by similar features. 

When the piers are built in a garden where a hedge is to be the 
enclosure, the piers should be from twenty-four to thirty inches 
wide; the hedge should be kept the same width and not allowed to 
become wider than the piers. 

Piers at corners or entrances should be built the same height 
as the wall and the coping (Fig. 118) returned around the pier as a 
mark of accentuation. An additional stone placed on top of the 
coping, and set back six or seven inches from the edge, is very 
effective. 

Where the entrance is to be featured by a gate or arch it is 
necessary to have the piers higher than the wall. Under such con- 
ditions it is more pleasing to have a ramp (Fig, 124) from the top of 



150 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 



the wall to a point near the top of the pier. This is more pleasing 
than to have the pier standing high above the wall. 

The same treatment should be applied at the intersection of 
two walls when, for reasons of grade, it is necessary to keep one 
below the other. 

If the garden is on several levels and it is necessary to keep the 
cross walls flush with the grade a ramp (Fig. 125) should be used 
to tie the side and cross walls together gracefully. 

WALKS AND BEDS 

The interior arrangement of walks and beds must be practical 
and simple in outline, avoiding a complication of geometrical figures 
which are unrestful and difl&cult to keep up. Straight lines (Fig. 
126) always give more character than curved ones and are much 
easier to maintain. 

WALKS — WIDTH 

The width of the paths will be regulated more or less by the 
area devoted to the garden, but they should always be as broad cS 




Fig. 124. — Ramp in wal! to meet high pier at garden entrance. — See page 149 



THE FLOWER GARDEN 



151 




u 



152 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 




THE FLOWER GARDEN 



153 




154 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 




Fig. 128. — An effective use of brick for a garden walk, with bricks on edge for a 

border.— See page 1 55 



THE FLOWER GARDEN 153 

the space will allow. In the smallest formal garden the minimum 
width should be four feet for the main paths, while the others may 
be as small as two and one-half feet. 

WALKS — MATERIALS 

Garden walks may be constructed of a variety of materials; 
among the most popular are gravel, brick, field stones, flagstone, 
tan bark and turf. The element of color is important and should 
be given careful consideration. For this reason the grayish tint 
of crushed stone is not pleasing; limestone is too glaring. 

TURF WALKS 

The turf path (Fig. 127) is the most attractive of all. It is 
pleasant to walk on, restful to the eye, and blends delightfully with 
the varying shades of color in the plantings. It makes a har- 
monious groundwork for floral effects desired without fear of dis- 
cordant contrast. 

BRICK WALKS 

Bricks of rich, dark shades (Figs. 128 and 129) are very agreeable 
for garden walks. Occasional application of boiled linseed oil will 
darken the surface and give a more beautiful texture. The bricks 
should be laid in the basket (Fig. 50) or herring bone pattern (Fig. 
52), with a neat border on end or edge. 

RED GRAVEL 

If red gravel is used it should be spread over a base of crushed 
stone at least four inches deep, and there should not be less than 
two inches of gravel, rolled and thoroughly compacted. 

STEPPING STONES 

The field stone or stepping stone walk (Fig. 53) is picturesque 
and gives an appearance of age to the garden. A single row of 
stones is much the best arrangement, as it leaves a greater portion of 
the walk in greensward. 

. FLAGSTONES 

Flagstones laid with turf interstices are a change and give a 
satisfactory transition from the lawn to the utilitarian feature. The 
stones may be laid regularly or broken in irregular shapes and laid 
in broken range. If a mortar joint is used (Figs. 44 and 45) it 
should be finished flush with the stone surface. 



156 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 

SLATE 

Slate slabs, laid the same as the flagstones, are very pleasing in 
color and are very serviceable. Slates may be had beautifully 
mottled with brown and gray. 

TANBARK 

Tanbark walks have fallen into disuse, most likely on account 
of the care and expense of upkeep. The color is good and the tex- 
ture comfortable under foot. The sub-base for tanbark should be the 
same as for macadam, with an inch of the tanbark as a finish. A 
curb or border is necessary to keep the material within bounds. 

BORDERS 

When gravel, brick or tanbark is used in path construction 
it should be bordered with turf or Box (Fig. 129), or both. Turf 
borders should not be less than twelve inches wide and, where space 
permits, wider. If the turf border is too narrow the periodic edging 
reduces it to irregular widths. For this reason stone or brick on 
end or edge is often preferable. 

GARDEN BEDS — WIDTH 

Beds which may be reached from two sides can be six feet wide; 
those which can be worked from one side only should not be more 
than three feet wide. 

The beds should never be placed next to a hedge, as the roots of 
the stronger growing hedge plants become very troublesome to the 
cultivated and enriched area. Under some conditions it is not 
possible to avoid having a bed next to the hedge; in such cases a 
three-inch concrete wall, two and one-half feet deep, constructed 
along the inside of the hedge, will help to force the hedge roots in the 
opposite direction. 

PREPARING GARDEN BEDS 

A successful garden will depend greatly on the preparation of 
the soil, care in planting and the upkeep. Garden beds should 
contain from eighteen inches to two feet of good friable soil. If it 
is not possible to supply all beds with this amount of good soil en- 
riched with well rotted cow manure, the available top soil on the 
garden area should be stripped, the manure dug into the bottom soil 



THE FLOWER GARDEN 



157 




Fig. 129. — Brick garden walk, laid diagonally on edge and bordered with Box. — See 

pages 155, 156 



158 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 




Figs. 130 and 131. — "The construction and setting of the garden are second in importance 
to the floral ensemble." Contrast these two scenes ! — See page 159 




THE FLOWER GARDEN 159 

and the top soil replaced. If the bottom soil is heavy and does not 
afford good drainage, sufficient sand or coal ashes should be added 
in addition to the manure. A free circulation of air and abundant 
moisture are requisites of root growth; and soil preparation should 
be such that will make the^c readily available. Coal ashes worked 
into bottom soil will afford good drainage and, at the same time, 
supply moisture from the lower strata by capillary attraction. 

HUMUS 

Humus in the form of decayed vegetable matter from bogs or 
lakes should be used generously in preparing garden beds. This 
material is rich in plant foods and, worked well into the surface soil, 
lessens the tendency to puddle or bake. 

FLORAL TREATMENT 

The construction and setting of the garden, essential as these 
are to its success, are second in importance to the floral ensemble 
(Figs. 130 and 131). In the selection and arrangement of the flowers 
(Fig. 132) a great deal of liberty may be exercised and personal 
tastes indulged. The best planned and most enjoyable gardens are 
those which provide a sequence of bloom, starting with the Snow- 
drops and Crocuses in early Spring and continuing on through the 
Spring, Summer and Fall until the waning season is brightened by 
such old favorites as the Japanese Anemones and ushered out by 
the hardy Chrysanthemums. 

An important subject to be considered in the arrangement of the 
flowers is that of balance. The height of the foliage and bloom on 
one side of the garden should have a corresponding unit on the 
other, not necessarily the same plant, but there should be some 
degree of similarity in outline and color. 

Much has been written of color in the garden. I would lay 
stress on these few points. It is well to keep the purples and blues 
at some distance from the principal point of view; the lighter colors 
should be in the foreground. This will enhance the distance and 
give a pleasing graduation of color. 

The question of mass should be given consideration. Most of 
the perennials have but a short season of bloom after which they 
are of little use. In selecting varieties for large clumps, those with 
a long blooming season should be chosen. Exceptions to this rule 



160 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 




C On 

£ — 



THE FLOWER GARDEN 



161 




162 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDEMNG 

are such plants as German and Japanese Irises. These plants have 
foliage of artistic excellence contrasting well with other features in 
the garden. 

Very often large spaces occupied by plants of short blooming 
season may be brightened by the use of some Summer flowering 
bulbs, such as the GladioH. Larkspurs (Fig. 132), Phlox, some of 
the Bellflowers, Chrysanthemums, and Japanese Anemones are 
good in masses. 

BULBS 

Bulbs should have a more intimate place in the garden than is 
customary (Fig. 133). Not in straight rows, but planted in clumps 
along the edges of the beds. 

ANNUALS 

Regardless of the care exercised in the selection and placing of 
the plants, the garden will not be altogether a success without the 
introduction of annuals (Fig. 134). Among the annuals are some 
of the most showy and useful plants that we have and they can be 
raised at a very small cost. 

Annuals are familiar to all and it is only necessary to say that 
the dull spots and bare spaces in the garden may be brightened if a 
little forethought is given each Spring to the raising of some Pansies, 
Snapdragons, Asters, Larkspurs, Zinnias, and other easily trans- 
planted kinds. 

The time to sow annuals is in the months of April and May. 
The directions printed on the package as to the seeding, soil, watering 
and care should be followed closely. 

For the time and expense required nothing will return so large 
a dividend in wealth of color and general satisfaction as the use of 
annuals. 

HARDY SHRUBS 

Hardy shrubs, too, have a place in the flower garden. Where 
the breadth is sufficient to allow unhampered development, these 
plants will give more character to the garden and afford a back- 
ground for the flowers. Their use is appreciated in breaking up 
broad views and estabUshing vistas to distant and interesting points. 
The Deutzias, Philadelphus coronarius, Kerria japonica. Viburnums, 
Syringas, Spiraeas and Buddleias are all good shrubs for garden 



THE FLOWER GARDEN 163 

use. Planted as specimens they should be well separated, always 
leaving ample space for the herbaceous plants between the individual 
shrubs. Oftentimes shrubs in the garden may be utilized to shade 
and protect some rather tender perennials or hardy bulbs. 

EVERGREENS 

Unless we would have the garden almost devoid of interest 
during the Winter months it is well to introduce some evergreens. 
These should be placed at regular intervals and always at the corners 
and ends of the beds, w^here they are bisected by walks (Fig. 135). 
If a large area is provided in the center of the garden for some such 
ornament as a sundial or bird bath, evergreens may be used here to 
good effect. The pyramidal conifers are the best suited for garden 
planting, and such varieties as pyramidal Box, Biotas, Arborvitaes 
and tall Junipers are recommended. 

For general garden planting varieties having dark green foliage 
are most desirable. Junipers with light colored foliage, such as 
chinense and virginiana glauca, contrast poorly with the foliage 
of the flowers and against the gray stone of garden enclosures, when 
stone is used. The golden tipped kinds, too, should be omitted from 
the garden. 

TREATMENT OF GARDENS CONSTRUCTED ON MORE THAN ONE LEVEL 

When the garden is situated on two or three levels it is often 
very practicable to devote the first level to the Winter garden 
planted to evergreens with areas of turf; the second plateau to 
perennials; the third to Roses (Fig. 136). Where only two levels 
exist, combine the perennials and the Roses by placing the Roses 
around the outer edge and the herbaceous plants and annuals in 
the inner beds. 

PLANTING AROUND GARDEN ENCLOSURES 

The outside line of the garden enclosure on the lawn side should 
always be hidden with foliage. A mixed plantation of flowering 
shrubs, with a few pyramidal evergreens at the corners, is very ef- 
fective. In the Southern States, where many of the broad-leaved 
evergreens are hardy, the English Laurels, Laurestinus and Caro- 
lina Cherry, should be more widely used in such plantings. The 
flowering shrubs outside the garden, lifting their heads above the 
garden enclosure, add a charm to the scene quite in tune with the 



164 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 




THE FLOWER GARDEN 



165 




166 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 




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168 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 



KEY TO PLANTING PLAN.-Fig. 137— See page 167 

Fig. 1 37. — An interesting garden plan. A circular fountain and pool in the center of the 
elliptical garden on the lower level is the dominant feature. — See page 1 70 



Common Name 

Blue Japanese Flag 
Early Blue Phlox 
Tall Larkspur 
Stoke 's Aster 
Plantain Lily 
Lavender Flag 
Flag 
Alkanet 
Speedwell 
Chinese Be'lflower 
False Indigo 
Plantain Lily 
False Indigo 
Plantain Lily 
Stoke's Aster 
Tall Larkspur 
Early Blue Phlox 
Flag 
Flag 

Monkshood 
Speedwell 
Chinese Bellflower 
Plantain Lily 
Blue Japanese Flag 
Irish Yew 
Irish Yew 
Shining Rose Bo 
English Holly 
Yellow Flag 
Day Lily 
Beard's Tongue 
Rock Cress 
Phlox 
Columbine 
Red Peony 
Candytuft 
Baby's Breath 
White Peony 
Foxglove 
Plantain Lily 
Chrysanthemum 
Alum Root 
Chinese Larkspur 
Garden Heliotrope 
Showy Sedum 
Japanese Flag 
Lavender Flag 
Plantain Lily 
Yellow Flag 
Japanese Flag 
Columbine 
Pink Phlox 



Key 






No. 


Quan. 


\'ariety 


I 


9 


Iris Kaempferi, blue 


2 


12 


Phlox divaricata 


3 


7 


Delphinium hybridum 


4 


12 


Stokesia cyanea 


4^ 


S 


Funkia lancifolia 


S 


10 


Iris pallida dalmatica 


6 


10 


Iris Candida 


7 


7 


Anchusa, Dropmore var. 


8 


10 


Veronica spicata 


9 


15 


Platycodon Mariesi 


lO 


7 


Baptisia australis 


lOi 


5 


Funkia caerulea 


11 


7 


Baptisia australis 


III 


5 


Funkia lancifolia 


12 


15 


Stokesia cyanea 


13 


7 


Delphinium hybridum 


14 


12 


Phlox divaricata 


IS 


10 


Iris Yolande 


i6 


10 


Iris Thavista 


17 


7 


Aconitum Napellus 


i8 


10 


Veronica spicata 


19 


15 


Platycodon Mariesii 


I9i 


5 


Funkia CEerulea 


20 


9 


Iris Kcempferi 


21 


4 


Taxus baccata fastigiata 


22 


8 


Taxus baccata fastigiata 


23 


2 


Cotoneaster Simonsii 


24 


8 


Ilex aquifolium 


25 


9 


Iris Canary Bird 


26 


8 


Hemerocallis flava 


27 


10 


Pentstemon barbatus 


28 


14 


Arabis albida 


29 


IS 


Phlox R. P. Struthers 


30 


12 


Aquilegia caerulea 


31 


10 


Paeonia grandiflora rubra 


32 


II 


Iberis sempervirens 


33 


S 


Gypsophila paniculata 


34 


7 


Paeonia festiva maxima 


35 


S 


Digitalis purpurea 


36 


7 


Funkia lancifolia 


37 


7 


Chrysanthemum Sunshine 


38 


9 


Heuchera sanguinea 


39 


5 


Delphinium chinense 


40 


7 


Valeriana officinalis 


41 


S 


Sedum spectabile 


42 


5 


Iris Kaempferi 


43 


7 


Iris pallida dalmatica 


44 


7 


Funkia japonica 


45 


7 


Iris aurea 


46 


8 


Iris Kaempferi 


47 


5 


Aquilegia caerulea 


48 


9 


Phlox I'Evenement 



THE FLOWER GARDEN 



169 



KEY TO PLANTING PLAN.— Fig. 1 37— Continued 



Key 






No. 


Quan. 


I'ariely 


49 


7 


Rudbeckia Newmanni 


SO 


7 


Campanula persicifolia 


SI 


7 


Chrysanthemum Fairy Queen 


52 


7 


Gaillardia compacta 


S3 


8 


Iris Kaempferi 


S4 


9 


Aquilegia chrysantha 


ss 


S 


Phlox Queen 


S6 


10 


Lupinus polyphyllus albus 


S7 


S 


Lilium candidum 


S8 


5 


Phlox Slocum 


59 




Iris Yolande 


6o 


S 


Iris Kaempferi 


6i 


7 


Valeriana coccinea 


62 


7 


Funkia japonica 


63 


10 


Statice Gmelini 


64 


7 


Chrysanthemum Boston 


64J 


7 


Funkia lancifolia 


6S 


9 


Tritoma Pfitzeriana 


66 


7 


Stokesia cyanea 


67 


7 


Paeonia Prince of Wales 


68 


9 


Iris aurea 


69 


8 


Coreopsis grandiflora 


70 


10 


Scabiosa caucasica 


71 


7 


Gypsophila paniculata 


72 


9 


Dianthus plumarius 


73 


IS 


Phlox Pantheon 


74 


9 


Campanula rotundifolia 


75 


S 


Delphinium chinense 


76 


14 


Rudbeckia purpurea 


77 


S 


Paeonia Duke of Wellington 


78 


8 


Iris Kaempferi 


79 


10 


Platycodon Mariesii 


80 


7 


Chrysanthemum Klondike 


81 


10 


Geum coccineum 


82 


7 


Artemisia lactiflora 


83 


9 


Phlox Van Hochberg 


84 


7 


Iris Mme. Chereau 


85 


8 


Iris Kaempferi 


86 


7 


Aquilegia caerulea 


87 


10 


Lupinus Moerheimi 


88 


5 


Phlox Ingeberg 


89 


9 


Aquilegia Skinneri 


90 


5 


Lilium candidum 


91 


5 


Phlox Thor 


92 


9 


Rhododendron roseum elegans 


93 


3 


Rhododendron Wilsoni 


94 


10 


Rhododendron punctatum 


95 


7 


Rhododendron caractacus 


96 


7 


Rhododendron purpurea elegans 


97 


5 


Rhododendron Boule de Neige 


98 


S 


Rhododendron Boule de Neige 


99 


7 


Rhododendron purpurea elegans 


100 


7 


Rhododendron caractacus 


lOI 


10 


Rhododendron punctatum 


102 


9 


Rhododendron roseum elegans 


103 


3 


Rhododendron Wilsoni 


104 


Soo 


Ligustrum ovalifolium 



Common Name 

Black-eyed Susan 

Bellfllower, Peach-leaved 

Pink Chrysanthemum 

Blanket Flower 

Japanese Flag 

Yellow Columbine 

White Phlox 

Lupine 

Madonna Lily 

Phlox 

Purple Flag 

Japanese Flag 

Scarlet Valerian 

Plantain Lily 

Sea Lavender 

Chrysanthemum 

Plantain Lily 

Red Hot Poker Plant 

Stoke's Aster 

Peony 

Yellow Flag 

Tickseed 

Blue Bonnet 

Baby's Breath 

Scotch Pink 

Phlox 

Harebell 

Chinese Larkspur 

Cone Flower 

Peony 

Japanese Flag 

Chinese Bellflower 

Chrysanthemum 

Avens 

Phlox 

Flag 

Japanese Flag 

Rocky Mountain Columbine 

Lupine 

Hardy Phlox 

Columbine 

Madonna Lily 

Hardy Phlox 

Pink Hybrid Rhododendron 

Dwarf Rhododendron 

Dwarf Rhododendron 

Red Rhododendron 

Purple Rhododendron 

Hybrid Rhododendron 

Hybrid Rhododendron 

Purple Rhododendron 

Red Rhododendron 

Dwarf Rhododendron 

Pink Rhododendron 

Dwarf Rhododendron 

California Privet 



170 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 

floral effects within, and the sinuous outline of the border plantation 
is in perfect harmony with the naturalistic aspect of the garden from 
without. At desirable viewpoints the planting should be low so that 
a glimpse may be had of the lawn, plantations or distant scenes. 

Lilacs are particularly good for planting immediately outside 
the garden enclosure; also the Japanese Snowballs, the Rose of 
Sharon, and Deutzias. It is here that we may use the shrubs of 
upright character that produce their greatest wealth of bloom toward 
the top. Berried plants should also be considered in these plan- 
tations. The Wayfaring Tree (Viburnum lantana), Hercules' Club 
(Aralia spinosa), Photinia villosa, the Hawthorns, Burning Bush 
(Euonymus), Flowering Dogwood (Cornus florida), Bush Honey- 
suckle (Lonicera), and the deciduous Holly (Ilex verticillata) , arc all 
adaptable to such a purpose. Additional Winter color may be 
secured by planting the red and yellow twigged Dogwoods and, if 
the scope of the plantation admits, a few Red Birch. 

The keynote of a successful garden setting is to so plant and 
arrange it that it will have the appearance of having existed before 
the garden was formed. 

WATER IN THE GARDEN 

A water feature (Fig. 137) is by far the most delightful note in 
the garden and gives added interest by reflecting the color of the 
flowers on its surface. It has the additional attribute of attracting 
the birds who come for their morning bath, thus adding a pleasing 
touch of life to the scene, usually augmented by a grateful carol of 
appreciation. More detailed notes on this subject will be found 
in the chapter on architectural features of the garden. 



ARCHITECTURAL FEATURES OF THE GARDEN 171 



CHAPTER VIII 



ARCHITECTURAL FEATURES OF THE GARDEN 

The flower garden, even that of the tiniest dimensions, does 
not seem complete without some garden ornament, and in this day 
of great possibilities in this line, with the material procurable ^at but 
little expense, the desire is easy of fulfilment. 

The architectural adornments of the garden cover many features: 
from the humble seat to the magnificent garden house. 

The use of garden ornaments will depend greatly on their proper 
placing. The bird bath or fountain, placed in the center of a gar- 
den, on the axis of the paths, is appropriate and satisfying, even 
though it may be one of very sim.ple design. 

SUNDIALS 

The sundial, upon which so many lines have been inscribed, both 
pleasant and harsh, is a garden ornament of many years' standing. 
The designs range from the simplest and most severe to the most 
elaborately ornate. 

The sundial is usually treated as a central feature, or placed at 
the terminus of a walk, and is generally quite conspicuous as one 
enters the garden. It is, therefore, a pleasant relief at times to 
find it treated as an isolated feature and placed in some secluded 
nook where it conveys much more charm by coming upon it unex- 
pectedly. If such a position is chosen care must be exercised in the 
plantings to avoid high growing plants which would interfere with 
the sun's rays on the dial. 

The expertness with which cement is manipulated today has 
made it possible to produce substantial sundials at a moderate cost, 
and they may be had in many unique and diversified designs. 

When setting the pedestal care should be taken to see that a 
substantial foundation is provided; this foundation may be con- 
structed of brick, stone or concrete; if of brick or stone it should 
be laid in cement mortar. 

If the sundial is placed where the turf will run up to the base 



172 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 

the foundation should be built the neat width or diameter, as turf 
burns out readily in shallow soil over stone, brick or concrete. 

In choosing a pedestal of artificial stone it is advisable to select 
one of simple outline and free from ornamentation, as the elements 
soon work havoc with the cement ornaments. 

The sundial should always be elevated at least one foot above 
the surrounding level and the paved area should be wide enough to 
allow one to stand comfortably upon it when reading the dial. 

BIRD BATHS 

The bird bath (Fig. 138) is an attractive feature, worthy of much 
wider usage. It is not alone charming as an architectural feature, 
but has the additional merit of attracting the birds to the confines of 
the garden, enlivening the scene by the touch of life, color and song. 

The bird font should be set in a conspicuous position where the 
little feathered visitors may be watched from some vantage point. 

It is important to provide a firm foundation for the font and to 
furnish water direct through a galvanized wrought iron pipe con- 
nected with the general water supply. A good fountain spray may 
be secured by using an adjustable hose nozzle, which will provide a 
single column of water or a fine spray, whichever is desired. 

The basin should always be placed on a fairly high pedestal as a 
protection against cats and other animals which prey upon the 
birds. 

FOUNTAINS AND POOLS 

The fountain (Fig. 139) is a garden feature greatly admired by 
all. The sound of falling water is ever a source of great delight. 
When the fountain has a surrounding pool the water should always 
be on the same level as the garden, or below that level. Instances 
are frequent where this rule is not observed and the water allowed 
to rise to a plane above the surrounding ground. The lack of re- 
pose in such a pool is very noticeable; such a situation is incorrect. 

Pools or fountains (Fig. 140) are at their best when placed in the 
center of the garden or at the end of a vista down a garden walk 
or broad turf area. 

DEPTH 

Pools should never be less than twenty-two inches deep when it 
is desired to grow Water Lilies. Two feet or two feet six inches are 
even better depths. 



ARCHITECTURAL FEATURES OF THE GARDEN 173 

CONSTRUCTION 

Pool walls (Fig. 141) may be constructed of brick or concrete. 

Brick walls should be one and one-half brick thick, coated on 
the inside with a Portland cement mortar in which some water- 
proofing should be incorporated. The bricks should be laid in a 
waterproofed cement mortar. 

Concrete walls should be six inches thick, consisting of five inches 
of reinforced concrete and a one-inch finish coat. A waterproofing 
material should be incorporated both in the general mix and in the 
finish coat, or a damp-proofing and bonding paint applied to the 
rough surface before the finish coat is applied. 

Pool bottoms will depend on the size of the pool and the char- 
acter of the soil. They should have a base of cinders or crushed 
stone, to prevent heaving, on which should be laid a slab of five 
inches of waterproofed reinforced concrete with a finish coat of one 
inch. If concrete walls are to be built the reinforcing iron should 
be long enough to turn up. 



POOL COPING 

The coping may be of good hard brick laid on edge, or on what 
is called row-lock fashion; this is much to be preferred to the cut 
limestone or cement coping. 

The gray sandstone (Fig. 140) to be had in the vicinity of Phila- 
delphia is an excellent stone for this purpose, using either dressed or 
selected flat pieces, laid quarry face, uniform thickness, using one 
through cross stone alternately with two pieces showing a joint 
through the center. 

The coping or curb should never stand more than four inches 
above the surrounding grade; the closer the coping level is to the 
garden grade the more pleasing will be the appearance. 

A sod edge extending to the pool has a softness and a natural 
appearance which have much to commend it. When a sod edge is 
desired the side walls of the pool should be beveled back to give as 
much depth as possible to the soil around the edge for the proper 
support of the turf. Under some conditions boulders around the 
margin are pleasing, particularly when the position is somewhat 
shaded, and ferns and other shade enduring plants may be planted 
between the boulders. 



174 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENLNG 




THE BIRD BATH 

Fig. 138. — "The bird bath attracts the birds to the confines of the garden, enlivening 

the scene by the touch of life, color and song." — See page 172 



ARCHITECTURAL FEATURES OF THE GARDEN 



175 




175 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 







^ty^iiii ir^iTi.-^- 



GARDEN POOL WITH WATER LILIES 



Fig. 140. — " Pools are at their best when placed in the center of the garden or at the end 
of a vista down a garden walk or broad turf area." — See pages 172, 173, 179 







IJ 



3 u — 






_Qf<C 



* s a 

E's S 





178 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 



WATER SUPPLY AND DRAINAGE 

The pool should be connected with the general water supply, if 
practicable, and a drain provided (Fig. 141) so that the pool may 
easily be emptied, cleaned and refilled. The most economical and 
practical method to arrange for the overflow and drainage is to 
have a standpipe with a ground beveled end to fit in a socket set at 
the low point of the pool. The size of the pipe will depend on the 
amount of water, but, for ordinary purposes, a one and one-half inch 
pipe is sufficient to carry off the overflow. To drain the pool it is 
only necessary to remove the standpipe. 
Another method of providing for the 
overflow and drainage is to have a con- 
cealed standpipe (Fig. 142) built into- 
the end wall of the pool. When the 
water rises to the top of the standpipe 
at A, it overflows. To drain, the stand- 
pipe is removed through a concealed 
opening at B. 

Where the drain is controlled by a 
valve, the valve should be set in a 
small box with an iron cover set flush 
with the grade. 

From a point immediately outside 
the walls of the pool the water may be 
carried off by a three-inch terra cotta 
pipe. 

The appearance of the pool will be 
greatly improved by placing an inch of 
clean pebbles over the bottom. 




TS^c-r 1 C3^ 



Fig. 142. — Concealed stand- 
pipe for garden pool overflow 
and drainage. 



GARDEN POOLS WITH FOUNTAIN HEADS 

Oftentimes garden pools are placed at the ends of the gardens 
fed from a fountain head placed in a vertical wall. 

The construction of such pools should be similar to that already 
outlined. 

The vertical wall should rise above the wall enclosing the garden 
to emphasize the feature. 

Fountains and pools so located should be provided with a good 
background, preferably evergreens of a dark shade; the Red Cedar 
and similar types are admirable for the purpose. 



ARCHITECTURAL FEATURES OF THE GARDEN 179 

PLANTING NEAR GARDEN POOLS 

The planting near garden pools should include some bright 
colored flowering plants in positions where they will reflect all the 
glory of their color on the surface of the water, for the pool is a 
delightful outdoor mirror, reflecting all its environment with a soft- 
ness that is most charming, 

PLANTS IN THE POOL 

The garden pool is not complete, nor affording one of its greatest 
pleasures, if it does not support some Water Lilies (Fig. 140). 

In tightly built pools it is necessary to plant the Lilies in tubs. 
A very economical and satisfactory tub may be provided by cutting 
in two an old vinegar or liquor barrel. 

The soil for the proper support of the Lilies should consist of 
a good loam well enriched with decomposed cow manure, equal to 
one-fifth of the entire bulk. On top of this place two inches of bar 
sand. The tubs should be set to a depth that will allow about six 
inches of water over the soil. 

THE PLANTS 

For the average garden pool a selection from the many varieties 
obtainable of hardy and tender Nymphaeas will be found most 
satisfactory. 

These may be planted just as they start into growth, usually 
about May 1 in the vicinity of Philadelphia; at that time all danger 
of frost is over and even the tender kinds may be safely set out. 

Only sufficient fresh water need be supplied to the pool to provide 
for that lost through evaporation. 

The Nelumbiums are very handsome, of easy culture and well 
suited to large pools. Other good aquatic plants are the Water 
Hyacinth, Water Snowflake, Papyrus or Umbrella Plant. 

The hardy varieties may be left in the pool all Winter; but they 
require a protection of leaves, with evergreen boughs or boards over 
them to keep the leaves in place. 

FISH 

It is well to stock garden pools with goldfish to destroy mos- 
quito larvae, and to add the requisite touch of life and color. 

SWIMMING POOLS 

The loss of so many of the old-time swimming holes has developed 
a demand for the artificial swimming pool. 



180 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 




Fig. 143. — Swimming pool within the garden area. Gray sandstone coping to match the 

walls and steps 



Such pools may often be placed within the garden area (Fig. 143) . 

The construction should be the same as that outlined for smaller 
pools, care being taken to waterproof the walls, not only from the 
standpoint of keeping the water within the pool, but to keep the 
moisture from outside from seeping through and discoloring the 
walls. The swimming pool may be incorporated in the flower garden 
as a wading pool or made sufficiently deep at one end to allow of 
diving, running from two to three feet deep at one end to from 
seven to eight feet deep at the other. 

Swimming pools should be provided with a ladder to assist in 
leaving the pool at the deep end. A removable ladder is best 
for a combination garden and swimming pool. Rings should be 
supplied at intervals along the edge of the pool and a rope run 
through, so that bathers may grasp same for support when required. 

WATER SUPPLY 

Should the water supply come from a spring or stream on the 
premises it will be necessary to have a valve or plug to shut off the 
supply at the intake. When using water from a stream it is advis- 



ARCHITECTURAL FEATURES OF THE GARDEN 181 

able to have a forebay set at one side and the pipe run from that to 
the pool. The forebay or well is built along the stream to prevent 
leaves, sand and debris from getting into the pipe. This is essential, 
regardlesss as to what method is adopted for conveying the water 
to the pool, either by gravity, ram, gas engine, electric pump or 
gasoline engine. 

As swimming pools must be emptied frequently in order to 
cleanse them, a small electric pump may be introduced, where the 
power is at hand, and the water from the pool connected to the 
garden pipe line and so used for watering, thus conserving the 
general supply. 

GARDEN SEATS 

The value of the seat as a garden feature has long been recog- 
nized. A seat affords a comfortable and delightful resting place 
to those who would walk or work within the garden. 

Seats should be placed on the axis of walks, in niches formed by 
planting, or in the enclosing garden wall (Fig. 144) or hedge, and 
roofed over if only in the most fragile way. 

Where practicable, seats should be placed where they will com- 
mand a good view of the garden (Fig. 145) or of some portion of the 
garden or its surroundings. 

A novel seat (Fig. 146) is sometimes built on the axis of inter- 
secting walks, consisting of two walls seven feet high, built in the 
shape of a cross, with the seats placed in each corner formed by the 
walls. With such a resting place one may always select a retreat 
sheltered from sun or wind, as desired, regardless of time of day or 
the quarter in which the wind happens to be. 

For greatest comfort wooden seats are best. They may be had 
in great variety and to suit any taste or need. 

Stone or artificial stone seats are more ornamental, but for real 
use are not as practical as those of wood. Stone seats should 
have a stone or concrete foundation, otherwise they will soon get 
out of level. 

When purchasing artificial stone seats it is advisable to select 
those of simple design rather than those overlaid with ornament. 

GARDEN HOUSES 

The location and placing of garden houses and pergolas should 
always be considered when planning the garden and not as an after 
consideration. 



182 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENINXi 




Fig. I44.-WELL PLACED GARDEN SEAT WITH COVERING 
See page 181 



ARCHITECTURAL FEATURES OF THE GARDEN 



183 




184 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 




"SO/^ 



Fig. 146. — A unique design for a sheltered garden seat to be placed on the axis of walks or 

in an isolated position commanding a pleasing vista. It is always possible to find a section 

sheltered from sun or wind. — See page 181 



Although space is not usually available in a small garden for 
a garden or tea house, yet quite often a space can be found sufficient 
to make a little break outside the line ; here it may be set in a niche, 
thus providing ease of access and possibly greater seclusion. 

It is essential that such features be placed on the most dominant 
axis of the garden, as a terminal feature, or at one corner with a 
balancing feature in the opposite corner. In this location a covered 
house is more desirable and affords more protection. In open 
topped houses of pergola construction twigs and leaves are constantly 
falling from the overhanging vines so that, where it is desired to 
serve tea occasionally in the garden house, the closed top construc- 
tion is preferable. 

If the garden adjoins the residence the garden house should be 
built to conform with the architecture of the house; if isolated from 
the house the design may be one that will suit the individual taste 
and requirement (Figs. 147 and 147 A). The rustic house, built of 
Red Cedar, lends itself to the greatest diversity. 

Garden houses with but one open side should have a southern 
exposure, pre-eminently when there is a pretty outlook in that direc- 
tion. Such a house will be found a delightful retreat m Autumn, 
where one may be sheltered from the cold winds and enjoy the view 
under most delightful conditions. 

The floor of the garden house should be of enduring material. 



ARCHITECTURAL FEATURES OF THE GARDEN 



185 




7 





186 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 




'/■^ 



V /\,~r 1 o /~\ 



— L — I I I I — u_JZliI lJ — 

C7 O T C H. 

1 I ' I I I 



p=o 



cr~'= (— I ^ c^ 



Plan and elevation for Fig. 147. — See pages 



184, 185 



such as flagstone, slate, brick, or tile; and, for permanency of con- 
struction, should be set on a concrete base four inches deep with a 
sub-base of stone or cinders. An inch of bar sand should be placed 
over the concrete as a cushion. 

The old Dutch tile size, eight inches by eight inches by two 
inches, with a brick texture, makes a very satisfactory floor with a 
border of brick on the outside. 

Garden houses should be set close to the ground and should not 
be more than twelve inches above the garden grade. A six-inch 
elevation, requiring a single step, is most hospitable in appearance. 




Fig. r47A.— Plan for a garden house, shingle or tile roof. Woodwork of 
finish and flooring of flat stones.— See page 184 



Oak. oil 



188 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 

PERGOLAS 

Garden houses of closed top construction are preferable to 
those of the pergola style within the garden. Pergolas used 
in the garden should be treated as terminal features (Fig. 148) or 
as covering walks leading to substantial terminals. Then the lights 
and shadows from the overhead construction (Fig. 149), with its 
covering of Roses and vines,, are very delightful. 

Pergolas may be of wood, brick, stone or concrete construction, 
depending largely on the style of the garden enclosures, architecture 
of the house, and the design and general surroundings of the garden. 

Pergolas built of wood may be of a rustic nature, using wood 
with the bark on, or constructed of planed wood, stained or painted. 

For pergolas of a rustic nature Red Cedar is the best material 
to use. For those constructed with planed wood. White Pine or 
Cypress are best. The high cost of White Pine makes it almost 
prohibitive. California Red Wood and Douglas Spruce are suitable 
for this purpose. The cost of these latter two is more moderate 
than that of either Cvpress or Pine. 

If the columns are of wood they should be set in concrete (Fig. 
150), first coating the wood that is imbedded in the concrete with a 
tar paint. If the posts are set in the ground, that part in the earth 
should always be coated with tar. 

If rustic posts are used the bark should be stripped from their 
lower portions before placing them in the ground. 

When setting posts in concrete, allow the concrete to come a little 
above grade (Fig. 150) with the top beveled so that the water can 
not seep down between it and the post. 

Treat logs with kerosene, to preserve the bark and protect it 
against the ravages of borers, which tunnel under the bark and soon 
loosen it. 

Pieces selected for the uprights should not be less than eight 
inches at the base, preferably twelve. Clearance space under the 
cross pieces should not be less than eight feet and the breadth from 
center to center of posts for this height, assuming a twelve-inch 
column, should be eight feet two inches, making the clearance 
between posts seven feet two inches, just ten inches less than the 
height. 

Always avoid making the width greater than the height; for good 
proportion the reverse is always better. 




rLrvATio/i 





jfc 



viy -r <o ^~i 



DnnnnnnDnnc 

zinnnnnnnnac 

unnannnnnnr 

DnnnnnnnnD 

rinnpnnnnnrv 

UDDnnnDnnc 

DDnnnnnnu 



m 



LjONrV'E'f^. (^^X-fSOlS^ri 



Fig. 148. — Plan for a pergola as a 
terminal feature, situated at the 
corner of the garden outside of the 
enclosing hedge, the two end sections 
being on the axis of the boundary 
walk.— See page 188 



■5^^ Brieve' 




190 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 




Fig. 149. — The lights and shadows from the overhead construction of the pergola- 
with its covering of Roses and vines, is delightful. — See page 188 



ARCHITECTURAL FEATURES OF THE GARDEN 



191 



If turned columns are used their height should be eight or nine 
times the diameter and the Hntels should be of two three-inch 
by ten-inch pieces, notched over the cap. The rafters (Fig. 151) 
should be three inches by eight inches, notched over the Hntels. 
For the better support of vines, additional pieces should be placed 
on top of the rafters, running at right angles to the same. These 
pieces may be one and one-eighth inches by two and three-quarter 
inches; or of shingling lath, planed down, which reduces them to 
about three-quarters of an inch by two and three-eighths inches. 
The rafters (Figs. 151-153) should have a projection of from 
eighteen inches to thirty inches and should be cut to a good bold 
outline. 

The caps should always be covered with light sheet lead (Fig. 
151) neatly tacked around the edge. 

When stone is used for the support of the superstructure the 
columns or piers should not be less than twenty-two inches, and 
these should stand on a foundation twenty-eight inches square, 
which will allow of a three-inch projection all the way around. 

The stones should be laid up in cement mortar and, where 
pointed, the pointing should conform to the pointing of the house, 
if the pergola is adjacent thereto. An effective method of laying up 
the stone work is to rake out the mortar joints to a depth of two to 
three inches; this will give a deep shadow and form a friendly sup- 
porting ledge for the vines. 
Cap stones should be of the 
"" same stone as that used in the 

piers, flat and hammer dressed, 
without projection, and set flush 
with the stone work below. It 







^^^or-feol-f ;^ ^^_^' 



Con 



/=^'-u, 



cnfTS* 



■-fe- 




Fig. 150. — Detail for construction 
wooden columns on cement base. 
See page 188 



Fig. 151.— Detail for construction of 

rafters on wooden columns. 

See note above 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 




ARCHITECTURAL FEATURES OF THE GARDEN 193 

^_ — rn a — __ jg ^ot necessary that the cap 

r nr m r -in/^ ^^ ^^^ ^"^ piece; when con- 

%c-hoir tal+j- structed of two or more pieces 
:?i-on(r (j3p the joints should be pointed. 

It is essential to build an- 

^r^'iC^ chor bolts in the top of the 

columns (Fig. 152) to secure 

Fig. I53.-Detail for construction of raf- the Hntels. These bolts should 

ters on brick piers. Note the stone cap. have a four-inch flat iron plate 

See also page 191 ^^^ ^-^^ bottom to prevent the 

bolt from being pulled out of 
place when tightening the nut at the top. 

Piers or columns constructed of brick should be of the dark 
shades; Harvard, Sayre and Fisher, or tapestry brick, are all suit- 
able kinds. They may be laid up with either a broad mortar joint 
or reveal joints, raking out the mortar for a depth of two to three 
inches. Brick piers are improved by having a base and cap 
(Fig. 153) either of cut stone or of brick laid on end with a quarter- 
inch projection at the bottom and edgewise, set flush with the sides 
of the piers at the top. 

There are times when light brick must be used to conform with 
the house; but light bricks are anemic looking for pergolas and should 
be used only when unavoidable. 

Stucco columns (Fig. 154) may be built on tile, as it is substantial 
and economical. Stucco piers should be built on a foundation of 
stone or concrete projecting beyond the line of the tile. Twelve- 
inch tile is about the minimum size to use, as it is difficult to hold a 
smaller size plumb when building. 

FLOORS 

Pergola floors should be built with a view to permanency. The 
foundation should consist of eight or twelve inches of clean cinders 
Avet and thoroughly compacted, or of equal depth of crushed stone 
on which should be laid a concrete slab four inches thick, composed 
of one part Portland cement to two of sharp sand and five of crushed 
one and one-half inch stone, thoroughly tamped. On this place a 
cushion of one-inch bar sand. Such a foundation should be provided 
for brick, slate, cement or stone paving. If concrete is not used in 
the foundations the cinders are best with the sand cushion placed 



194 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 

directly on top of them. All paving should have a slight fall; an 
eighth or a quarter of an inch to the foot is sufficient. This will 
prevent surface water from collecting. 

If brick, stone or slate is used for paving the joints should be 
pointed with a cement mortar to prevent grass and weeds growing 
in the interstices. It is seldom practical to successfully grow turf 
under pergolas, as the shade from the overhanging vines becomes 
too dense. On open terraces such a treatment is satisfactory and 
picturesque. 

The cement finished floor is the least desirable of all. It has a 
harsh, mechanical finish which does not fit in with soft, responsive sur- 
roundings of the garden. If cement is used much of the glare may 
be reduced and the texture improved by tinting it. Lamp black and 
the red mortar stains are used for the purpose. They should be 
applied in the finish coat, and that rather sparingly, or the efficiency 
of the cement will be much impaired. Cement paving should have 
expansion joints cut at intervals to prevent cracking. A cement 
surface will have a better appearance if it is cut up into small 
rectangular blocks, either square or oblong in form. 

The color of the timber superstructure will be largely influenced 
by that of the house; when adjacent to the house the color adopted 
should conform to the residence. 

White may always be used with safety and will intensify the 
shades of green leafage by contrast. There are various shades of 
brown obtainable, from the tint resulting from the use of creosote 
" oil grade one " to the almost black shade of Van Dyke brown. 
These latter colors are especially attractve in combination with the 
brick or stone substructure. 

COLOR OF WOODEN GARDEN FEATURES 

The color of wooden garden features is a subject well worth 
considerable thought. White paint is used more frequently than 
any other and, although pleasing to the eye when the foliage is on 
the plants, it is most glaring and cold looking in the Winter season. 
Shades of green are good but do not afford sufficient contrast. On 
the whole, shades of brown and weathered oak tints will give the 
greatest satisfaction. 



ARCHITECTURAL FEATURES OF THE GARDEN 195 




196 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 




HARDY BORDERS AND ROSE GARDENS 197 



CHAPTER IX 



HARDY BORDERS AND ROSE GARDENS 

PERENNIAL BORDERS 

Of the many ways in which the cultivation of flowers is under- 
taken none is so popular as the " mixed " or " hardy " border (Fig. 
155). Such borders are seen on nearly every property and occupy 
different and varied positions. They may be planted in front of 
shrubbery belts (Fig. 156), in the kitchen garden (Fig. 159), along 
sides of walks (Fig. 165), and against walls and buildings (Fig. 157). 

LOCATION OF HARDY BORDERS 

It is to be regretted that hardy borders are usually placed to 
the rear of the house. Although some perennials do have a short 
season of bloom, and others are not provided with pleasing foliage, 
even with these deficiencies, if the selection of plants be carefully 
made, borders may be so planted that they will be attractive all 
through the season. On small places particularly, the flowers should 
be in the front, much as they are in the cottage gardens of England, 
where borders along walks and fences are so attractively treated. 
In these plantings it is obvious that the floral arrangement is given 
preference to the outline of the beds and this is as it should be. 
Irregular beds of meaningless outline should be avoided and the 
simplest forms adopted. 

AVOID BORDERS NEXT TO A HEDGE 

Perennial borders should never be planted against a hedge; it 
is preferable to leave about two or three feet between the hedge 
and the bed. Many plantings are ruined after the first year or two 
by the roots of hedge plants which grow apace in the enriched soil 
of the flower borders. 

TURF EDGE FOR BEDS 

When borders are placed along walks it is advisable to leave 
at least eighteen inches of turf (Fig. 166) between the bed and the 
walk. It is difficult to mow and trim a narrower strip. 



198 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 

BORDERS ALONG A FENCE 

A very satisfactory arrangement of beds along a fence (Fig. 158) 
is to have a narrow bed, say two feet wide, for the taller growing 
varieties right against the fence, then a turf strip, two and one-half 
or three feet between this and a larger bed on the lawn side. This 
will afford a charming vista and give more variety to the scene. 

BORDERS IN THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

The vegetable garden (Fig. 159) may be much improved by the 
introduction of perennial borders along the walks which bisect it 
and also along the outer walks. It is not necessary to sacrifice, to 
any great extent, the utilitarian side of the garden for this esthetic 
feature, as the beds may be made quite narrow (Fig. 160). From 
four to five feet is a desirable width and will afford an area suscepti- 
ble of very pleasing treatment. It is well to give character to bor- 
ders of this kind by planting tall flowering shrubs at the corners 
formed by the intersection of the walks and at the outside corners. 

WIDTH OF BORDERS 

The width of the borders will vary somewhat according to 
location. In the open, where it is practical to reach beds from both 
sides, they may be made six feet wide. In positions where they 
can only be reached from one side the width should not exceed four 
feet; three feet is preferable. 

PREPARATION OF BEDS 

In itself the word " hardy " is suggestive that permanency should 
be the first consideration in the planting of such a border, so that 
with but simple care the plants will continue for years. It is essen- 
tial, therefore, that thorough preparation of the soil be made before 
planting. Two feet of good soil, well enriched with plant food, 
should be provided for borders. Well rotted manure, finely ground 
bone and well pulverized sheep manure, in equal parts by weight, 
are good fertilizers for perennials. 

TIME TO PLANT 

Very early Spring, just as the plants are starting into growth, 
is the most favorable season for planting the majority of perennials. 
Do not plant in wet soil; it is better to wait until the ground is 
fairly dry. In some localities the Spring season is very short and 
uncertain; this may call for planting to be done in the Fall. Plants 



HARDY BORDERS AND ROSE GARDENS 



199 




Fig. 156.— Hardy Phlox in a border planting in front of shrubbery. See page 197 




Fig. 157.— Hardy Chrysanthemums in a border along a wall.— See page 197 



200 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 



Fig. 158.— Plan for 
perennial borders 
along a fence and at 
the corner of a lawn. 
In the bed along the 
fence plant high 
growing perennials 



■ «: e-/^ /^ \ -■'^ JL. 



iSof^cr*-!^- 



and the lower growing kinds in the outer bed. 
— See page 198 



moved in the Fall should be well protected by a mulch 
so that the frost will not lift them out. 

SUMMER CARE (^^ 

Summer care of perennials will consist principally 
of frequent cultivation so as to allow a full circulation of air and to 
keep down the weeds. Tall growing plants should be staked so that 
the borders will present a neat appearance. Staking should be done 
as the plants grow, and not at the last moment when the weight of 
foliage and flowers has made it impossible to give proper support. 

To get the best result with hardy borders they should be gone 
over every year so that some of the very rampant plants, such as 
Coreopsis, can be kept in check. It is usually the late blooming 
varieties which need more frequent division and transplanting. 
Spring blooming plants flower mostly from root crowns or buds 
perfected the preceding year; the Fall blooming plants from the 
numerous new stems produced during the growing season. Some 
of the strong growing Fall bloomers lose the original crown every 
year, leaving many side shoots which spread rapidly through the 
borders. Plants of this type should be dug up and replanted, setting 
back just a few of the strongest roots. This will insure larger and 
better blossoms and more kindly consideration of neighboring plants. 

ARRANGEMENT OF PLANTS IN HARDY BORDERS 

The arrangement of plants in the hardy border (Fig, 161) should 
be with a view to color effect and sequence of bloom. The beds 
should be interesting from early Spring to late Fall. The most 
difficult plants to handle successfully with a view to good color effect 
are those with magenta and mauve shades. It is safe to separate 
these from conflicting shades with white and pale yellow. The 
white must be used sparingly, however, as it is the most conspicuous 
color in the combination. The scarlet shades are the high lights 
in the garden and we cannot place magentas or blues too close to 
the scarlets with satisfactory results. It is better to pass from 
orange and yellow to blue. 



HARDY BORDERS AND ROSR GARDENS 



201 




202 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 



-^ ^~ G r^~T A^ & L, E^ ^ 



F^E"-R£=/s/i i.^i_ 



eo4spr--R. 



y-< 



.rv-i/-i(/^i_ 



V^r^G T^T/^B i^r-cT 



^ 



IAil./\L, 



I- -:■■■'-■■•- ^. 



E^cO^^C? 



,^-i^ 



J-t. 



llifflliiiljliiiii^ 




^cO^^PE--f^ 



Fig. 1 60.— Showing an arrangement of perennial borders surrounding a vegetable 

garden.— See page 1 98 



HARDY BORDERS AND ROSE GARDENS 



203 




204 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 

To get a good color scheme and sequence of bloom it is well to 
make a plan of the beds first and figure out the spaces and the 
quantities, such as has been done on the plans illustrated. To 
facilitate this work a list of plants to be used, arranged according 
to season of bloom, height and color, will be of great help. 

BORDER BEDS SHOULD NOT BE GRADUATED EVENLY AS TO HEIGHT 

It is a mistake to plant all the rear row with tall plants, 
the middle rows with medium growing ones, and the border with 
low varieties. More consideration should be given to the profile 
or, as the artist would say, the " sky line." To obtain the most 
pleasing effects with perennials plant so that the taller varieties 
(Fig. 162) will stand out boldly and not be held up on both sides 
by some other tall kind. Set off the Larkspurs (Fig. 162), Holly- 
hocks (Fig. 163), or Foxgloves by some lower growing kind next to 
them, and show the medium growing varieties to better advantage 
by introducing tall kinds for contrast. 

BACKGROUND FOR BORDERS 

Where space permits of long borders of good width the question 
of a suitable background (Fig. 164) should not be entirely over- 
looked. Good supporting growth adds greatly to the charm and 
attractiveness of perennial plantings. For this reason it is well to 
introduce shrubs or evergreens at regular intervals in borders along 
walks. These will strengthen the planting and add to the character. 

ROSE CHAINS IN PERENNIAL BORDERS 

Another pleasing addition to the perennial border is the 
introduction of cedar posts at intervals of from ten to twelve feet, 
through which, at a point about ten inches from the top of the post, 
a chain of one and one-half inch links should be run. Plant a 
climbing Rose at each post, to form a pillar of green, and train the 
leaders along the chain to form a festoon. 

ARCHES OVER WALKS 

Rose arches (Fig. 165) are pleasing to tie together border beds 
along walks and increase the apparent distance. These should not 
be planted too closely together; fifteen to twenty feet apart is the 
most satisfactory distance. 

PLANTING IN CLUMPS 

It is not advisable to dot single plants of favorite varieties all 
through the borders. Rather, have some good clumps (Fig. 166) 



HARDY BORDERS AND ROSE GARDENS 205 

at one, two, or several places in the bed. Too much stress cannot 
be laid on this point. Keep varieties together; do not scatter them 
too much. The efifect is better; it helps greatly in the care of the 
beds, and allows of keeping in much closer touch with individuals. 
The size of the clumps will depend greatly on the area of the borders 
and the location. Care should be taken not to plant large clumps 
of varieties which have a very limited blooming season, such as the 
Oriental Poppy, or kinds with poor foliage, such as Anthemis tinc- 
toria. Frequent small clumps of such kinds are better with Gladioli 
planted among them for later bloom. 

BULBS AND TUBERS 

Greater use should be made of bulbs and tubers in the hardy 
borders. They are inexpensive and should otherwise be considered 
from the standpoint of ease of culture, color, and succession of 
bloom. It is possible, by a careful selection, to secure a sequence of 
bloom lasting through the entire season. 

Bulbs and tubers may be generally divided into two classes; 
those known as hardy bulbs, such as DafTodils and Crocuses, which 
may be allowed to remain in the border from season to season; and 
tender bulbs, such as Gladioli and Dahlias, which must be lifted and 
wintered under cover. These classes may again be divided into 
Spring, Summer and Fall blooming kinds. 

SPRING BULBS 

Of the Spring kinds nearly all are suitable for garden culture. 
Among the first to bloom, usually as early as February, we have 
Winter Aconite {Eranthis hyemalis), Snowdrops and Crocuses, 
followed by Daffodils, early and late Tulips and Hyacinths. 

The late blooming Tulips, such as the Darwins, Cottage and 
Parrot types, deserve more general recognition in our garden beds. 
They afford magnificent coloring and have good long stems, making 
them suitable for use as cut flowers. 

SUMMER FLOWERING BULBS 

Of the Summer flowering bulbs and tubers the Gladiolus and 
Dahlia are the best known. 

Gladioli may be had in very choice colors and are unexcelled for 
planting among Peonies and other herbaceous plants with heavy 
ioliage and but a very short blooming season. Gladioli may be 



206 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 




T 



DC 



HARDY BORDERS AND ROSE GARDENS 



207 







Fig. 163. — Hollyhocks in a border planting. — See page l.b-\ 



208 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 




Fig. 164. — This early flowering border of Iris, Peonies, Foxgloves and English Daisies 

illustrates the advantages of a background. The Funkia cordifolia, as a center feature 

at the corner, is well placed. — See page 204 



HARDY BORDERS AND ROSE GARDENS 



209 




210 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 

planted weekly from May to July, and will afford a succession of 
bloom through the Summer. 

Dahlias given but ordinary treatment in the garden will repay 
one with a wealth of bloom in the late Summer and Fall months. 
Varieties may be had in many forms and colors to suit the individual 
taste. Plant young plants in preference to tubers and give them 
an open, sunny position. The plants should be kept upright and 
tidy by the use of supports. 

Tuberous rooted Begonias may be introduced into the shaded 
portions of the garden and will afford a variety of gay colors in large 
and beautiful flowers. They are more effective when planted together 
in a bed rather than scattered through the garden. Better treat- 
ment can be afforded them in this way as they need a light but rich 
soil for the best results. The tubers should be started indoors 
to ensure early bloom. 

The Summer Hyacinth {Hyacinthus candicans) is a splendid 
Summer flowering bulb to scatter through the borders in clumps of 
five or more. The bell-shaped flowers appear on long stems, three 
to five feet high; there are as many as thirty flowers on a stem. 

Many of the Lilies are hardy and may be successfully introduced 
into the borders. Groups of L. auratum (the gold-banded Lily of 
Japan); L. elegans, a lovely, upright, orange-colored type; L. 
speciosum, a Japanese variety, and L. tigrinum, the old-fashioned 
Tiger Lily, are the best for border use. 

The Tuberose is an old-fashioned favorite, rather stiff, it is true, 
but very fragrant and beautiful. By careful management, starting 
to plant as soon as the conditions are favorable in the Spring and 
continuing until July, a succession of bloom may be had all Summer. 

The Eremurus, or Giant Asphodel, might well be classed among 
Summer flowering bulbs, as it has a stout, fleshy root with a central 
crown from which the rootlets radiate. Well drained land and 
plenty of plant food are requisites. The flowers come on tall stalks 
sometimes eight to ten feet high. The flowers form on the upper 
part of the stalk and continue to form as the stem lengthens. Ere- 
murus needs considerable room in the border, so should only be used 
where extensive space is to be had. It should be set in the 
Autumn, planted at least six inches deep. 

AUTUMN BUL>BS 

Of the Autumn flowering bulbs, Colchicum autumnale, the 
Meadow Saffron or Autumn Crocus, is perhaps best known. The 



HARDY BORDERS AND ROSE GARDENS 211 

flowers very much resemble Crocuses. The bulbs should be planted 
in July and August, in clumps, not too set looking, in the front of 
the borders. They may be had in white, lilac and blue. 

The Red Hot Poker plant, or Tritoma, may be classed among 
the Autumn flowering bulbous plants worthy of a place in all hardy 
borders. The orange, coral red and yellow flowers are very strik- 
ing. Some of the newer kinds have early, free, and continuous 
blooming qualities, and succeed in an ordinary garden soil. Tri- 
tomas are not altogether hardy in some locations and, for safety, 
should be lifted in the Fall and wintered under cover, buried in 
sand in a cool cellar or shed. 

The Montbretia is a hardy bulbous plant that should be in every 
flower border. The flowers are brightly colored, mostly orange 
red, and on stems from two to three feet high. They should 
be planted in an open, sunny position. Bulbs may be set in the 
Autumn or very early Spring. 

ANNUALS IN THE BORDERS 

Very often the effect of perennial beds is marred by allowing too 
much bare soil to show, particularly along the edges. This may be 
overcome by planting cover plants, or in the new border by planting 
an assortment of annuals. As hardy cover plants the Candytuft, 
Creeping Phlox, early blue Phlox, Plumbago, Rock Cress, and many 
similar varieties, are splendid. Of the annuals many kinds are 
suitable for border planting; among the best are Sweet Sultan,. 
Silene, Coreopsis, Larkspur, Balsam, Zinnia, Dianthus, Eschscholt- 
zia. Aster, Godetia, Clarkia, Snapdragon, Calendula and Poppy. 
Annuals are very easily growm. If wanted early, the seeds should 
be started indoors in flats. Many kinds may be quickly and easily 
grown by sowing in the open ground when danger of frost is over. 

Really, the material for hardy beds is inexhaustible and a selec- 
tion may be made for a constant succession of bloom through the 
entire season. If they are planned carefully, remembering that it 
is the contents of the beds and not the outline that is attractive, 
and with the idea of permanency before us, such borders will con- 
tinue for years with but little care. 

ROSE GARDENS 

Every one knows how satisfactory the Rose is for outdoor 
decoration and for cutting, but it does not receive all the considera- 



212 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 




Fig. 166. — Better effects may be secured in hardy border through planting in clumps 

rather than scattering single plants all through the border. Note turf 

edge between walk and bed.— See pages 197, 204 



HARDY BORDERS AND ROSE GARDENS 213 

tion it deserves in our gardens. No garden is complete without 
some of this queen among flowers. 

ROSE GARDEN DESIGNS 

For the best effect Roses should be planted in mass and in this 
way they can be shown to greater advantage in a garden of formal 
outline. The design (Fig. 167) may vary greatly, depending on 
the garden location, individual taste, and the space at hand, but 
the beds should always be narrow with larger turf area. Gardens 
built on several levels should have one level reserved for Roses (Fig. 
136). Gardens built all on the same level should have the Roses 
in the outside beds with the perennial beds toward the center. 

POSITION 

The Rose garden should be on high ground in an open situation 
that will allow an abundance of sunshine and a free circulation of 
air (Fig. 168). The garden should not be too close to large trees, 
the roots of which extend for some distance. A southeastern expo- 
sure is the best. 

BEDS 

Experience has taught us that Roses thrive best in narrow beds 
not more than twelve inches wide, (though up to three feet is prac- 
tical,) with a turf path from two feet six inches to three feet wide 
between each bed (Fig. 167). The plants should be placed from 
twenty-four to thirty inches apart. It is a great mistake to plant 
Roses too far apart, a good average distance being twenty-four 
inches. 

The broad turf area forms a pleasing setting for the Roses, quite 
in contrast with the usual broad beds, which are unsightly, impractical 
for the proper care of the plants, and a source of great aggravation 
when gathering the flowers. 

PREPARATION OF BEDS 

The beds should be very carefully prepared if the best results are 
to be obtained. This is even more important than a good selection 
of varieties. Roses like fertile, well drained soil, at least eighteen 
inches deep. If the soil is very heavy, affording poor drainage to 
the plants, the beds should be dug out deep and crushed stone or 
cinders placed in the bottom to carry off the excess. Although 
Roses should be in well drained soil they do not thrive vigorously 



214 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 




HARDY BORDERS AND ROSE GARDENS 



215 



KEY TO PLANTING PLAN.-Fig 167 



Fig. 167. — A design for a Rose garden. 
See pages 



Key 






No. 


Quan. 


Variety 


I 


8 


Spiraea Thunbergii 


2 


8 


Rosa rugosa 


3 


10 


Rosa Baby Rambler 


4 


8 


Ligustrum lucidum 


5 


10 


Rosa rugosa, white 


6 


6 


Thuya occidentalis pyramidalis 


7 


8 


Rosa rugosa Ferdinand Myers 


8 


30 


Rosa multiflora 


9 


8 


Juniperus Schottii 


10 


12 


Rosa, Harrison's Yellow 


II 


8 


Rosa rugosa Mme. Bruant 


12 


10 


Rosa rugosa, red 


13 


6 


Thuya occidentalis pyramidalis 


14 


8 


Ligustrum lucidum 


IS 


ISO 


Hybrid tea Roses 



Narrow beds with larger turf areas. 
213.216 

Common Name 
Snow Garland 
Japanese Rose 
Everblooming Dwarf Rose 
Evergreen Privet 
White Japanese Rose 
Pyramidal Arborvitae 
Pink Japanese Rose 
White Rose 
Pyramidal Cedar 
Yellow Bush Rose 
Double White Japanese Rose 
Red Japanese Rose 
Pyramidal Arborvit* 
Evergreen Privet 
Everblooming Roaes 



216 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 

in very light soils. A good loam, well enriched with cow manure, 
will produce splendid flowers. 

PLANTING AND CARE 

Fall or very early Spring is the best planting season for dormant 
plants. If plants started in pots are secured they may be set any 
time after May first. The plants should receive frequent cultiva- 
tion during the Summer. An abundance of water will help greatly 
in getting best results, so that, if possible, water should be piped 
to the Rose garden for convenience. Frequent spraying of the 
foliage with water is an aid in keeping insect pests in control. Spray- 
ing should be done in the morning, so that the foliage will be dry 
by night. 

If the plants are robust and healthy, the result of favorable condi- 
tions, insect pests are not a serious menace. 

Green fly and aphis are most prevalent. These are easily 
controlled by spraying with tobacco water. Leaf eating insects 
may be kept under control by occasional sprayings with arsenate of 
lead, eight ounces to five gallons of water, applied to the under side 
of the foliage. For mildew apply sulphate of potassium, one-half 
ounce to one gallon of water. 

The proper pruning of the plants will depend largely on the 
type. The two principal types to be met in gardens are the so-called 
hybrid tea or everblooming Roses, and the hybrid perpetuals or 
June Roses. 

Hybrid tea Roses should be cut back severely; the strong shoots 
should be cut to within twelve inches of the ground and the weak 
shoots removed entirely. 

Hybrid perpetuals or June Roses are much stronger growing. 
To insure the best individual blooms the strong shoots should be 
cut back within a foot of the base. A less severe pruning will suf- 
fice where quantity of bloom is desired. 

All pruning should be done very early in the Spring. 

Roses may be successfully protected from severe Winters by 
a mounding of soil around the base. The entire bed should have a 
light mulching with coarse manure or straw. Too heavy a mulch 
is dangerous, as it induces growth to start too early in the Spring. 

VARIETIES 

As before stated, the two types of Roses most generally used in the 
Rose garden are the hybrid tea Roses and the hybrid perpetual Roses. 



HARDY BORDERS AND ROSE GARDENS 



217 







2 2 

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(U 60 

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218 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 




Fig. 169. — Rose arches clothed with hardy climbing Roses may often be successfully 
introduced into the Rose garden. — See page 219 



HARDY BORDERS AND ROSE GARDENS 219 

The hybrid tea Roses are popularly known as monthly or ever- 
blooming sorts. They are most satisfying for garden purposes, as 
they are usually of neat habit with pleasing foliage and fragrant 
flowers, in many delicate and beautiful colors. There are so many 
varieties to choose from now, that a selection must depend largely 
on the taste of the individual. For the guidance of those unfamiliar 
with such plants I will name this brief selection of dependable va- 
rieties: General MacArthur, crimson red; Laurent Carle, carmine; 
Farben Konigin, pink; Killarney, pink; Harry Kirk, a yellow tea 
Rose; Lady Hillingdon, a yellow tea Rose; Kaiserin Augusta Vic- 
toria, white. 

The hybrid perpetuals or June Roses make a splendid showing 
in June when the plants are in full bloom. After that they have but 
a scattering bloom during August and September. A few of the 
best varieties are Frau Karl Druschki, white; General Jacqueminot, 
crimson; Ulrich Brunner, cherry red; Mrs. R. Sharman-Crawford, 
deep pink; Magna Charta, bright pink. 

There are numerous reliable Rose specialists throughout the 
country from whom catalogues should be obtained and varieties 
studied out in order that a satisfactory selection be made. 

CLIMBING ROSES 

Rose arches (Fig. 169) and Rose chains may often be very 
successfully introduced into the Rose garden. These should be 
clothed with the hardy climbing Roses, of which there is a large 
selection to choose from. Climbing Roses should be given plenty 
of space so that they may freely develop. To get the best 
results with climbers the question of pruning is very important. 
The plants should be cut back just as soon as the flowering season 
has passed, cutting out the old flowering shoots and leaving the 
young growth to develop. June and July are the months when 
climbing Roses are at their best, and the floral treatment of the 
garden should be so designed that this wealth of bloom and color 
may be taken advantage of to the fullest extent. These varieties 
are recommended: Carmine Pillar, single carmine with white 
center, early; Hiawatha, ruby carmine with white center; Crimson 
Rambler, crimson double; Dorothy Perkins, double pink; Christine 
Wright, double pink; Dr. Van Fleet, flesh pink; Alberic Barbier, a 
double pure white; Gloire de Dijon, white shaded with salmon, 
rather tender; Tausendschon, semi-double pink. 



220 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 




Fig. 170.— The wild garden will appear best in a depression where it is practicable to 

plant the side slopes with evergreens and flowering shrubs in a 

naturalistic way.^See page 221 



WILD GARDENS AND ROCK GARDENS 221 



CHAPTER X 



WILD GARDENS 

The wild garden, as the name suggests, is a garden of informal 
outline, but it is not, as many think, a wilderness, requiring little 
or no attention. The primary purpose of the garden is flowers, and 
if success is to be looked for there must be a degree of care and regard 
"bestowed upon it, although when the garden is once established 
this care may be reduced to a minimum. 

A wild garden consists of a collection of plants, perennials and 
shrubs, placed so nearly in their original environment that they 
become established and in great measure take care of themselves. 

Very often an entire property is developed along naturalistic 
lines, aiming toward the picturesque in landscape design. Such a 
development may not be classed as a wild garden, as very often the 
effects secured are the result of almost constant care. 

THE WILD GARDEN AS AN ISOLATED FEATURE 

The true wild garden should be treated as an isolated feature 
and will appear best in a depression (Fig. 170) where it is practicable 
to plant the side slopes with evergreens and flowering shrubs in a 
naturalistic way. When boulders are at hand it may be made even 
more picturesque by placing them on the slopes and extending the 
plantations of wild flowers around them to tie the entire scene 
together. 

Where space admits the plot given over to the wild garden should 
be large enough to allow the greatest freedom in the modification 
of the ground; walks should lead through depressions, the slopes of 
which may be built up with the earth excavated from them. 

Very often a favorably located spring will supply running water 
and add a feature of inestimable worth to the wild garden. Many 
and varied are the native plants that can then be introduced and 
charming indeed the efifects procurable. 

The wild garden should be so designed that the scenes are ever 
changing; the paths should follow the running water, through 



222 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 

dense, cool, shaded places, where ferns and mosses thrive, and again 
through open, sunny, meadow-like spaces where Buttercups and 
Daisies abound. 

WALKS 

In the wild garden the paths should be of turf (Fig. 171) or 
stepping stones, and very broad, allowing the flowers to sprawl over 
the path in places without interfering entirely with the purpose of 
the walk. Stepping stones should be placed twenty inches apart, 
center to center. 

BEDS 

Beds for the establishing of flowers should not be more than 
six feet wide. Where it is necessary to have them of greater width, 
it is preferable to place shrubbery in the center of the bed and to 
allow about three feet between the shrubbery and the turf edge of 
the path. 

PLANTING IN THE WILD GARDEN 

The proper planting of the wild garden will require an intimate 
knowledge of plants and a fine sense of fitness. The proper plant- 
ing relates not only to the colonies of the smaller flowers that border 
the walks and the edges of streams, but also to the trees, shrubs and 
evergreens needed to make up the scene. Trees and shrubs should 
be selected which will supply the overhanging branches desired in 
places without encroaching on the open meadow-like sunny spots. 

Many plants, such as the Foxgloves and Cardinal Flowers that 
are given places in the regular flower garden, are equally at home 
in the wild garden, but plants such as Geraniums and Scarlet Sage, 
which are peculiarly garden plants, have no place in it. 

FLOWERS IN THE WILD GARDEN 

As in the flower garden, the aim should be toward continuity 
of bloom. There should be no lack of flowers at any time, although 
the Spring and Fall seasons will be greatly to the fore. In this re- 
spect great aid may be looked for from the free use of hardy bulbs. 
Nothing is quite so pretty as colonies of Snowdrops, Jonquils, Daf- 
fodils, and similar bulbs, thoroughly naturalized. 

Splendid color effects may be secured by very simple combina- 
tions of plants in the wild garden. These may be copied closely from 



WILD GARDENS AND ROCK GARDENS 



223 




Fig. 171. — In the wild garden the paths should be of turf and very broad. — See page 222 

nature, or be the result of individual taste in colors and color com* 
binations. 

ROCK GARDENS 

GARDEN LOCATIONS 

The Alpine or rock garden is closely akin to the wild garden, 
as here, too, we endeavor to establish plants as nearly as possible 
in their native environment. The Rock Garden should be apart 
and secluded from the Flower Garden. If it is possible to select a 
place where there is running water it will greatly enlarge the variety 
of plants that may be grown and increase the possibihties. 



PLACING OF ROCKS 

The rocks should be placed on a gentle slope and the surface so 
varied that the contour will be undulating. A few large rocks are 
better than many small ones. When placing the rocks adopt a 
plan of stratification so that the strata all run in the same direction. 
Secure the largest boulders possible and arrange them so that the 



224 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 




Fig. 172.— A dry retaining wall with pockets for plants, where the water feature adds 
greatly to the scene. — See page 226 

most formidable stones come at the base. In some places the ar- 
rangement should be almost perpendicular and in others flattened 
out to a more gentle slope. In this class of work we are imitating 
nature just as closely as possible and the boulders must be so 
arranged as to appear inherent in the soil. 



SOIL 

An abundance of good porous soil must be used and well mixed 
with leaf mold and well rotted manure to a depth of two or three 
feet. It is almost impossible to establish and grow a good assort- 
ment of rock plants on many of the so-called rockeries for the reason 
that the pockets for soil are far too small and devoid of moisture. 
so that only the very hardiest of drought resisting Alpines can 
exist. 

ARRANGEMENT OF PLANTS 

The arrangement of the plants should be in clumps or colonies 
of one variety, and not of a mixed planting where the strongest grow- 



WILD GARDENS AND ROCK GARDENS 



225 




DKV W ALi. GARDENING 
Fig. 173. — In dry wall construction the large stones should be placed at the base, and 
the face of the wall battered back two or three inches to the foot. Pockets of generous 
dimensions should be provided for the plants, and all the stones should have an inclina- 
tion toward the bank. In the illustration the plants consist of Armeria, Phlox, Dianthus, 
Aquilegia and Epimedium.^See page 226 

ing kinds can overrun the weaker, many of which would soon perish 
under these conditions. 



MOISTURE IMPORTANT 

When a rock garden is constructed on a dry hill it should be 
provided with a sub-irrigation system, as many Alpine plants require 
a deep, moist soil. This is very much more important than the 
shade or partial shade so often thought necessary to their well doing. 
Such a system of irrigation may be economically installed by running 
a two-inch agricultural tile along the top of the slope, twelve inches 
below the surface. The bottom of the trench should be inclined 
toward the rockery and filled with crushed stone or clean cinders, 
placed around the tile. The tile should be connected with a rubber 
hose at the faucet. The use of valves is thus done away with, such 



226 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 




)<9^ 



r-ic^-ij^ 



c 



— ^ pr TAi.L p^,R per t^FTA.i/i iAiq' wa.ll to dt fL^njtv 

Fig. 174. — Dry stone wall with pockets for planting. Note system for watering. 



as would be necessary if the line was directly connected with the 
water supply system. Where the rock garden is close enough to 
the house, water may be applied directly by hose, but the irrigation 
method is to be preferred. 

An interesting use of rock and Alpine plants is in the planting of 
dry walls (Figs. 172 and 173) and particularly when such walls are 
built as retaining walls in the flower garden. A great variety of 
plants may be had for such a purpose and the list greatly enlarged 
if a water supply is near by to help out in very dry periods. 

When it is purposed to plant the interstices in dry walls, the 
walls should have a batter (Fig. 174) of three inches to the foot, or 
one foot in a wall four feet high. The stones should be set at a 
right angle to the inclined line. The pockets left for plants should 
continue directly or indirectly through the wall so that Ihe soil will 
be in direct contact with that at the back of the wall. These soil 
pockets should be filled as the wall progresses and the soil held in 
place by tough pieces of sod until ready for planting. 

For wall gardens it is advisable to install a sub-irrigation 
system (Fig. 174) to supply abundant moisture to the wall 



WILD GARDENS AND ROCK GARDENS 



227 




ANOTHER FORM OF ALPINE GARDENING 

Fig. 1 75. — Rustic garden steps such as these should have six-inch risers and treads of not 

less than fourteen inches. The larger stones should be used for the base, and the soil well 

rammed to prevent settling. The treads should be tied into the cheek walls. In rustic 

work the cheek walls may be left without coping. 



plants; this may be done by installing a perforated wrought 
iron pipe along the top at the rear of the wall; the perfora- 
tion should be a thirty-second of an inch in diameter, spaced at 
intervals of one inch. The pipe should be placed with the holes at 
the bottom, on a bed of crushed stone, seven inches below the sur- 
face, and covered with three inches of cinders, allowing four inches 
of top soil above. The water supply should be controlled by a 
valve set flush with the grade, in a neat box, and located at a con- 
venient point. 

GARDEN STEPS WITH POCKETS FOR PLANTS 

Garden steps of field stone (Fig. 175) in fashion with the 
retaining walls may be so constructed as to leave pockets for the 
planting of Alpines. Following a first principle of wall construc- 
tion, such steps should be as regular as possible, not in absolutely 
straight lines, but the structure in general should be regular and 
uniform. This regularity should not be followed in the planting; 



228 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 




Fig. l76.^Stone steps making^ an interesting approach to the rock garden. Large 

field stones form the treads with earth risers. Sedum acre (Wall Pepper) is planted 

between the stones. — -See page 229 



WILD GARDENS AND ROCK GARDENS 



229 




Fig. 177. — Small, compact growing shrubs are introduced into a rock garden not only for 
their floral beauty, but to add stability. — See page 230 



on the contrary, it may be very much varied. An important con- 
sideration in the building of such steps is stabiUty. Large, heavy 
stones should be selected for the base and placed on a firm founda- 
tion. As the other stones are placed they should all lie firmly and 
the soil between be well rammed to prevent too much settling. The 
planting may usually be done as the work is in progress; the plants 
will then be better placed, the roots spread more easily. The pockets 
for plants should be so made as to prevent the crushing of the 
roots as the work progresses. Plants that show to best advantage 
on a flat surface should be given the preference, but in not too great 
a variety. Plants suitable are Rock Cress {Arabis albida), Wall 
Pepper {Sedum acre. — Fig. 176), Bugle {Ajuga repens), Harebell 
{Campanula rotund (folia), Soapwort (Saponaria ocymoidcs) and 
Speedwell {Veronica riipestris). 



TIME OF PLANTING 



Great care should be taken in planting Alpines or many failures 
will result. Late Spring is the very best season for planting and 



230 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 



if it is possible to secure small potted plants they are more easily 
handled. Planting and building may often be done at the same 
time and this is advisable where possible. 



SHRUBS IN ROCK GARDENS 

The introduction of small, compact growing shrubs will give an 
appearance of stability to the rockery and deter the eye from taking 
in too much at a time. Many of the hardy heaths are suitable for 
this purpose, as are also the Andromedas, Azaleas (Fig. 177), 
Daphnes, Dwarf Rhododendrons and Cotoneasters. 

EVERGREENS IN THE ROCK GARDEN 

Coniferous evergreens should be used sparingly in the rock 
garden. The tall, upright types are not in keeping, and all those 
with golden or silvery foliage should be omitted. Some of the dwarf 
Junipers, such as J. tamariscifolia and J. sabina prostrata, are use- 
ful, as are the dwarf Spruces such as Picea Remonti, and the dwarf 
Retinisporas as Retinispora obtusa nana. 

THE HEATHERS 

The hardy heaths bloom from April until July. The first to bloom 
is Erica mediterranea. This variety makes its flower buds in the 
Summer and blooms the following April and May. Other hardy 
kinds are E. Tetralix, E. cinerea, E. vagans, E. ciliaris and Calluna 
vulgaris. 

Used in the rock garden the heaths should be planted in clumps 
rather than as individual plants. A rather peaty soil should be 
provided and the plants placed close together, protecting the roots 
from wind and undue exposure. 




PLANTING PLANS AND KEYS THERETO 231 



CHAPTER XI 



PLANTING PLANS AND KEYS THERETO 

The plans illustrated on the following pages are mostly of 
properties which have been developed as planned and, though they 
will not apply to other plots in every detail, they may be readily 
adjusted to conform to grounds of a similar size. 

The garden plans may be easily adopted where the area is at 
hand to accommodate them and the enclosing plantations; the 
latter is essential, for the garden setting has much to do with its 
success from a pictorial point of view as well as from the privacy 
it affords. 

When modifying the plans and making substitutions to suit 
one's fancy or local conditions, it will save much time and annoy- 
ance to first make a list of the plants to be used, noting their 
ultimate height and spread, season of blooming, and the color of 
the flower; such a list saves much confusion in looking up each 
variety in the nursery catalogues when making the plan. 

In border plantations it should be borne in mind that a grouping 
of shrubs on level ground should never exceed more than three 
plants in depth (placed irregularly and not in straight rows); in 
a limited space two plants deep will be sufficient. More than this 
quantity will give a monotonous, flat appearance. On slopes, the 
dimensions of the individual groupings are only limited by the 
space or the fancy of the designer. 

Most of the shrubs bloom early in the Spring or late Summer, 
so it is suggested that a generous quantity of perennials be included 
in the plantations; these latter will give a charming sequence of 
bloom and brighten the scene throughout the season. 

For the best results in plant arrangement it is essential that 
we have .:ome preconceived idea as to the placing of the material 
of which the scene is to be made; after the conception the next 
step is to develop the scheme on paper, in a comprehensive manner, 
drawn to an accurate scale, so that it may readily be reproduced 
on the ground. The eraser should be used unsparingly, for it is 
only by the process of elimination that we finally realize the best. 



232 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 






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PLANTING PLAN 
"A" 

On this plan, representing a 
width of 80 ft. by a depth of 
200 ft. stand two semi-detached 
houses. 

The entire boundary is arranged 
in plantations of shrubbery and are 
of such varieties as will give a se- 
quence of bloom from early Spring 
until late Fall, followed by a little 
interest of color in the berry bear- 
ing plants, such as the Barberry, 
Coral Berry, Snowberry and 
Cotoneaster. 

The perennials are placed along 
the base of the house, and the 
varieties suggested, while limited , 
will provide a goodly quantity of 
cut flowers for table decoration. 

The front lawns may be treated 
as one lawn to advantage by omit- 
ting numbers 21 and 29, while the 
rear, for reasons of privacy, is 
better enclosed by the shrub 
borders. 

A small vegetable garden is 
placed at the rear, separated by a 
hedge, which will also form a back- 
ground to the plantations in front 
of it. 

Between the rear lawn and the 
vegetable garden a small arbor is 
suggested in which seats may be 
placed at the sides. 

Either climbing Roses, Clematis 
or annual vines should be planted 
as the decoration for the arbor. 

For laundry purposes a movable 
drier is indicated in the center of 
the grass plot. This is easily put up 
and taken down as occasion may 
require, and is infinitely better 
than the unsightly posts. 

On the scale given below the 
plan 16 equals 8 ft; 32 equals 16 
ft; 64 equals 32 ft. 



234 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 



KEY TO PLAN " B " 



Key 






No. Q 


uan. 


Variety 


I 


3 


Pyracantha coccinea Leland 


2 


5 


Abelia grandiflora 


3 


3 


Cornus florida rubra 


4 


3 


Cotoneaster Simonsii 


5 


3 


Enkianthus japonica 


6 


3 


Azalea ledifolium var. leucanthemum 


7 


6 


Mahonia aquifolia 


8 


I 


Cedrus Deodora 


9 


3 


Laurustinus Tinus 


10 


3 


Cotoneaster Augustifolia 


II 


3 


Nandina japonica 


12 


7 


Iris Kaempferi 


13 


I 


Camellia japonica 


14 


5 


Paeonia Festiva Maxima 


15 


I 


Spiraea Van Houtei 


l6 


8 


Phlox G. A. Strohlein 


17 


I 


Viburnum tomentosum 


i8 


8 


Delphinium hybridum 


19 


I 


Amygdalus nana 


20 


8 


Phlox Elizabeth Campbell 


21 


I 


Deutzia Lemoinei 


22 


3 


Hydrangea Hortensis (blue) 


23 


10 


Chrysanthemum Jardin des Plantes 


24 


6 


Thalictrum Dipterocarpum 


25 


6 


Eupatorium coelestinum 


26 


9 


Chrysanthemum maximum 


27 


I 


Robinia hispida 


28 


3 


Abelia grandiflora 


29 


3 


Mahonia japonica 


30 


3 


Ilex crenata 


31 


3 


Ilex crenata 


32 


3 


Mahonia aquifolia 


33 


3 


Jasminum nudiflorum 


34 


8 


Bocconia cordata 


35 


4 


Ilex aquifolia 


36 


20 


Abelia grandiflora 


37 


2 


Taxus hibernica 


38 


I 


Camellia japonica 


39 


I 


Ceanothus Gloire de Versailles 


40 


6 


Paeonia rubro-plena 


41 


10 


Phlox Wm. Robinson ■ 


42 


10 


Delphinium hybridum 


43 


I 


Spiraea arguta 


44 


10 


Iris Kaempferi 


45 


I 


Berberis purpurea 


46 


lO 


Chrysanthemum Henry Sesquier 


47 


I 


Forsythia viridissima 


47^ 


10 


Phlox Elizabeth Campbell 


48 


I 


Syringa Mme. Lemoine 


49 


i8 


Hypericum calcynum 


50 


4 


Nandina japonica 


51 


5 


Rhododendron Parsons Gloriosa 


52 


7 


Aucuba japonica green 


53 


4 


Genista juncea 


54 


8 


Hydrangea arborescens grandiflora 


55 


I 


Cedrus Deodara 


56 




Quercus coccinea 


57 




Cornus florida rubra 


58 




Ulmus americana 


59 




Cedrela sinensis 



Common Name 
Evergreen Thorn 
Hybrid Abelia 
Pink Dogwood 
Shiny leaved Cotoneaster 

Evergreen White Azalea 
Oregon Grape 
Himalayan Cedar 



Heavenly Bamboo 

Japanese Flag 

Camellia 

White Peony 

Van Houtte's Spiraea 

Orange Red Phlox 

Single Japanese Snowball 

Larkspur 

Flowering Almond 

Pink Phlox 

Lemoine's Deutzia 

White Chrysanthemum 

Meadow Rue 

Hardy Ageratum 

Shasta Daisy 

Moss Locust 

Hybrid abelia 

Japanese Evergreen Barberry 

Japanese Holly 

Japanese Holly 

Oregon grape 

Jasmine 

Plume Poppy 

English Holly 

Hybrid Abelia 

Irish Yew 

Camellia 

Red Peony 
Pink Phlox 
Larkspur 

Japanese Flag 

Purple Barberry 

Violet Rose Chrysanthemum 

Golden Bell 

Pink Phlox 

White Lilac 

Aaron's Beard 

Heavenly Bamboo 

Rose Bay 

Japanese Laurel 

Spanish Broom 

Hills of Snow 

Himalayan Cedar 

Scarlet Oak 

Pink Dogwood 

American Elm 




PLANTING PLAN 
"B" 

This plan provides for the 
possible treatment of a lot of 
50 feet in width and 118 feet 
in depth over all, on which is 
situated a residence which 
leaves but a small space on 
either side between the side 
walls of the house and the 
party line fence. 

The rear and side lines on 
the back lawn are planted prin- 
cipally with broad leaved ever- 
greens, so that the general 
effect will be pleasing through- 
out the year. 

Along the party lines speci- 
men shrubs are shown at equal 
intervals with perennials be- 
tween for the sake of tying the 
planting scheme together, and 
to add a little to the turf 
breadth between the shrubs. 

The plantation at the base 
of the porch consists of broad 
leaved evergreens, including 
Abelia grandiflora, one of the 
most satisfactory of all the 
flowering evergreen shrubs. 
The foliage is excellent and the 
period of bloom continues from 
early Summer to late in the 
Fall. This plant is also sug- 
gested for the hedge along the 
front, with the corners and en- 
trance emphasized with the 
English laurel. 



236 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 



KEY TO PLAN " C 



Kev 




No. 


Quan. 


I 


47 


2 


4 


3 


4 


4 


3 


5 


r 


6 


7 


7 


10 



13 


I 


14 


I 


15 


I 


l6 


I 


17 


2 


i8 


5 


19 


I 


20 


16 


21 


2 


22 


I 


23 


I 


24 


I 


25 


I 


26 


I 


27 


I 


28 


I 


29 


I 


30 


I 


31 


I 


3-2 


I 


33 


6 


34 


5 


35 


3 


36 


4 


37 


5 


38 


15 


39 


8 


40 


15 


41 


6 


42 


II 


43 


5 


44 


6 


45 


6 


46 


IS 


47 


8 


48 


10 


49 


6 


50 


10 


51 


10 


52 


6 


53 


15 


54 


12 


55 


8 


56 


5 


56Ji 


4 


57 


5 


58 


6 


59 


10 


60 


15 


61 


ID 


62 


7 


63 


6 


64 


6 


65 


5 



Hybrid Tea Roses 

J Crataegus, Double white Crataegus, alba | 
1 plena Double red, Paul's Scarlet J 

Salisburia adiantifolia 
Abelia grandiflora 
Buddleia Veitchiana 
Bocconia cordata 
Delphinium hybridum 
Phlox Mrs. Jenkins 
Phlox Elizabeth Campbell 
Paeonia Festiva Maxima 
Spiraea Van Houttei 
Abelia grandiflora 
Mahonia aquifolia 
Aucuba japonica 
Cotoneaster Simonsii 
Mahonia japonica 
Juniperus hibernica 
Retinispora obtusa 
Thuyopsis dolobrata 
Retinispora squarrosa Veitchii 
Acer saccharum 
Cotoneaster Simonsii 
Mahonia japonica 
Aucuba japonica 
Abelia grandiflora 
Mahonia aquifolia 
Berberis Thunbergii 
Deutzia gracilis 
Spiraea Anthony Waterer 
Spiraea callosa alba 
Amygdalus fl. pi. rubra 
Coryopteris Mastacanthus 
Buddleia magnifica 
Hydrangea arborescens grandiflora 
Thalictrum dipterocarpum 
Aconitum Park's hybrids 
Anemone Queen Charlotte 
Iris Kaempferi 
Stokesia cyanea 
Iris Queen of May 
Paeonia Jean d'Arc 
Platycodon Mariesii 
Phlox Struthers 
Pentstemon barbatus , 
Iris King of Iris 
Phlox Mrs. Jenkins 
Funkia lancifolia 
Chrysanthemum Henry Sesquier 
Paeonia Charlemagne's 
Campanula calycanthema 
Chrysanthemum Jardin des Plantes 
Paeonia lutea variegata 
Iris Kaempferi 
Platycodon Mariesii 
Stokesia cyanea 
Aquilegia caerulea 
Aconitum, Park's variety 
Anemone Queen Charlotte 
Paeonia Festiva Maxima 
Chrysanthemum Jardin des Plantes 
Phlox Elizabeth Campbell 
Campanula latifolia macrantha 
Paeonia Cytharee 
Iris pallida dalmatica 
Pentstemon barbatus 
Phlox Miss Lingard 



Common Name 



Hawthorn 

Maidenhair Tree 
Hybrid Abelia 
Butterfly shrub 
Plume Poppy 
Larkspur 
White Phlox 
Pink Phlox 
White Peony 
Van Houtte's Spiraea 
Hybrid Abelia 
Oregon Grape 
Japanese Laurel 
Shiny leaved Cotoneaster 
Japanese Evergreen Barberry- 
Irish Juniper 
Japanese Cypress 

Japanese Blue Cypress 
Sugar Maple 
Shiny leaved Cotoneaster 
Japanese Evergreen Barberry- 
Japanese Laurel 
Hybrid Abelia 
Oregon Grape 
Japanese Barberry 
Dwarf Deutzia 
Pink Spiraea 
Dwarf white Spiraea 
Flowering Almond 
Verbena Shrub 
Butterfly shrub 
Large flowered Hydrangea. 
Meadow Rue 
Monkshood 
Windflower 
Japanese Flag 
Stokes' Aster 
Flag 

Rose Colored Peony 
Chinese Bell Flower 
Cherry Red Phlox 
Beard Tongue 
Yellow Flag 
White Phlox 
Plantain Lily 
Violet Rose Shades 
White Peony 
Bell Flower 

White Chrysanthemum! 
Pink Peony 
Japanese Flag 
Chinese Bellflower 
Stokes' Aster 
Columbine 
Monkshood 
Windflower 
White Peony 
White ChrysanthemujTu 
Pink Phlox 
Bellflower 
Flesh White Peony 
Blue Flag 
Beard Tongue 
White Phlox 




PLANTING PLAN 

"C" 

This scheme differs from the 
preceding in that the treat- 
ment in the rear is of formal 
outline. This garden is planted 
with an assortment of hardy 
perennials, and the whole is 
enclosed with hybrid Tea 
Roses. The diagram repre- 
sents a plot 50 ft. wide by 
118 ft. deep over all. 

On the transverse axis of the 
'^garden a Summer house is 
located. This little open area 
is necessary to provide a suit- 
able drying area for laundry 
purposes. The drier, however, 
^ o. is of a movable type and when 
not in use should be removed. 

The Summer House is sur- 
rounded by the Ginkgo, one of 
the most picturesque of trees. 
Small arches spanning the two 
entrances to the garden would 
be a desirable feature, and 
climbing Roses should be 
planted on either side of the 
arch, using Silver Moon, Dr. 
Van Fleet, Tausendschoen and 
iz. J Farquhar. 

The side line, west side, is 
planted in hardy perennials, 
with a flowering shrub at each 
end as a terminal feature. 

On the eastern boundary 
ine dwarf flowering shrubs 
are planted at equal intervals. 

The planting at the base of 
the house consists of broad 
leaved evergreens. 

The hedge along the front 
is the silvery grey Japanese 
Cypress, with the green va- 
riety at the ends and en- 
trances for contrast and to 
emphasize those points. 



238 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 



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PLANTING PLAN 
"D" 

In this plan (50 ft. wide by 
108 ft. deep over all) the plant- 
ing along the western bound- 
ary line consists entirely of 
flowering shrubs with specimen 
evergreen shrubs along the 
eastern fence line and at the 
side of the house, between 
which are placed hardy peren- 
nials to give a little color to 
the scene. 

The hedge along the front is 
Japanese Barberry, the most 
satisfactory dwarf growing 
shrub to be had. The foliage 
colors beautifully in the Fall 
and the berries are persistent 
for a long period. The ends 
and entrances are defined by 
the pyramidal Arborvitae. 

The formal treatment in the 
rear takes in the full width of 
the property and the laundry 
posts are set within the en- 
closure, on which climbing 
Roses are indicated. The 
Honeysuckle may be adopted 
as an alternative. To further 
disguise their utilitarian pur- 
pose, bird houses may be 
placed on top of them. 

Flowering shrubs are placed 
at the corners and entrance to 
give a little more character to 
the borders, and the balance of 
the beds are planted in an 
assortment of hardy perennials 
to give a sequence of bloom 
from Spring till Autumn. 



240 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 






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PLANTING PLAN 
"E" 

In this scheme the treat- 
ment is of formal character, 
the only informal part being 
in front of the porch, and the 
small plantation at the south- 
west corner. The diagram re- 
presents a property 50 ft. wide 
by 108 ft. deep over all. 

The stepping stone walk on 
the west side is placed between 
two borders of perennials and 
leads to the enclosure at the 
rear. 

Shrubbery has been placed 
at intervals in the beds to lift 
them up and break the mon- 
otony. This feature is con- 
tinued along the eastern fence 
line, while at the base of the 
house the planting is confined 
to the hardy perennials with 
the exception of two ever- 
greens placed at the ends of 
the beds. 

The plantation in front of 
the porch consists of an assort- 
ment of conifers, in back of 
which a variety of vines are 
placed for color effect. Bulbs 
for Spring, followed by low 
growing annuals, would give 
an additional interest to this 
plantation. 

The hedge along the front 
is the Hemlock Spruce, and it 
should be kept at a height of 
three to four feet. 



^^<= j^j-^s^ 



242 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 



KEY TO PLANTING PLAN.-Fig. 178 



Key 

No. Quan. Variety 

1 7 Rhodotypos kerrioides 

2 4 Hibiscus syriacus, single pink 

3 i6 Spiraea A. Waterer 

4 10 Lonicera fragrantissima 

5 12 Hydrangea paniculata (type) 

6 s Spiraea Thungergii 

7 7 Buddleia Veitchiana 

8 5 Hydrangea arborescens grandiflora alba 

9 10 Lonicera Morrowi 

10 8 Spiraea A. Witerer 

11 6 Yucca filamentosa 

12 I Acer saccharum 
Mahonia aquifolia 
Philadelphus coronarius 
Jasminum nudiflorum 
Desmodium penduliflorum 
Rhodotypos kerrioides 
Desmodium japonicum 
Abelia grandiflora 
Rhododendron album elegans 
Azalea Hinodegiri 
Rhododendron myrtifolium 
Rhododendron John Walter 
Rhododendron roseum elegans 
Juniperus virginiana glauca 
Abelia grandiflora 
Forsythia suspensa 
Lonicera Morrowi 
Lonicera fragrantissima 
Lonicera Morrowi 
Forsythia suspensa 
Abelia grandiflora 
Juniperus Cannarti 
Spiraea Thunbergii 
Ligustrum Regelianum 
Weigela Eva Rathke 
Spirsea Van Houttei 
Caryopteris mastacanthus 
Syringa Marie Legraye 
Buddleia Veitchiana 
Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora 
Rhododendron Hybrids 
Rhododendron Hybrids 
Rhododendron Hybrids 
Rhododendron Hybrids 
Chrysanthemum Golden Mme. Martha 
Phlox Rheinlander 
Hesperis matronalis 
Digitalis purpurea 
Aster amellus. Beauty of Ronsdorf 
Digitalis purpurea 
Lonicera Morrowi 
Lonicera Morrowi 
Hydrangea paniculata (type) 
Exochorda grandiflora 
Lonicera fragrantissima 
Annuals and Bedding Plants 
Juniperus Sjhottii 
Desmodium penduliflorum 
Phlox Miss Lingard 
Gaillardia grandiflora 
Hypericum aureum 
Deutzia gracilis 
Chrysanthemum St. Illoria 
Phlox Elizabeth Campbell 
Phlox Von Lassburg 
Kerria japonica, single 
Rosa rugnsa 
Spiraea Thunbergii 



13 


3 


14 


3 


15 


6 


i6 


S 


17 


5 


i8 


5 


19 


5 


20 


8 


21 


7 


22 


6 


23 


5 


23i 


6 


24 


I 


25 


8 


26 


9 


27 


5 


28 


9 


29 


8 


30 


9 


31 


9 


32 


2 


33 


12 


34 


14 


35 


8 


36 


9 


37 


S 


38 


5 


39 


8 


40 


10 


41 


4 


42 


4 


43 


S 


44 


5 


45 


10 


46 


8 


47 


8 


48 


8 


49 


10 


50 


10 


SI 


5 


52 


5 


S3 


5 


54 


5 


55 


5 


56 




57 


15 


58 


7 


59 


15 


60 


12 


61 


7 


62 


6 


63 


12 


64 


12 


6S 


12 


66 


4 


67. 


7 


68 


5 



Common Name 
White Kerria 
Rose of Sharon 
Dwarf Pink Spiraea 
Early Fragrant Honeysuckle 
Late Hydrangea 
Snow Garland 
Butterfly Plant 
Hills of Snow 

Japanese Bush Honeysuckle 
Dwarf Pink Spiraea 
Adam's Needle 
Sugar Maple 
Holly-leaved Barberry 
Mock Orange 
Yellow Jasmine 
Bush Clover 
White Kerria 
White Bush Clover 
Hybrid Abelia 
White Rhododendron 
Japanese Evergreen Azalea 
Myrtle-leaved Rhododendron 
Crimson Rhododendron 
Pink Rhododendron 
Blue Cedar 
Hybrid Abelia 
Weeping Golden Bell 
Japanese Bush Honeysuckle 
Fragrant Honeysuckle 
Japanese Bush Honeysuckle 
Drooping Golden Bell 
Hybrid Abelia 
Cannart's Cedar 
Snow Garland 
Regel's Privet 
Dark Red Weigela 
Bridal Wreath 
Blue Spiraea 
Lilac 

Butterfly Plant 
Large-flowered Hydrangea 



Yellow Chrysanthemum 

Pink Phlox 

Rocket 

Foxglove 

Michaelmas Daisy 

Foxglove 

Japanese Bush Honeysuckle 

Japanese Bush Honeysuckle 

Panicled Hydrangea 

Pearl Bush 

Fragrant Honeysuckle 

Schott's Juniper 
Siebold's Desmodium 
Early White Phlox 
Blanket Flower 
St. John's Wort 
Slender Deutzia 
Pink Chrysanthemum 
Early Phlox 
Hardy Phlox 
Japanese Rose 
Wrinkled Japanese Rose 
Snow Garland 



PLANTING PLANS AND KEYS THERETO 



243 



PLANTING PLAN.— Fig. 178 




COMPLETE HOME GROUND SURROUNDINGS 

Fig. 178. — Property approximately 195 feet x 165 feet. A very complete scheme including 

a tennis court, garage, greenhouse and coldframes. The tennis court is enclosed by a 

pergola and affords a space for open air theatricals, the workroom of the greenhouse 

providing a dressing room for the same 



244 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 



KEY TO PLANTING PLAN.-Fig. 179 



Key 




No. 


Quan 


I 

2 




3 




4 




5 




6 


3 


7 


2 


8 


3 


8 


2 


9 


I 


10 


5 


II 


6 


12 


5 


13 


5 


14 


6 


15 


7 


i6 


6 


17 


5 


i8 


6 


19 


7 


20 


9 


21 


8 


22 


7 


23 


6 


24 


4 


23 


5 


26 


3 


27 


5 


28 


6 


29 


6 


30 


8 


31 


9 


32 


7 


33 


7 


34 


5 


35 


6 


36 


12 


37 


7 


38 


6 


39 


10 


40 


10 


41 


10 


42 


8 


43 


3 


44 


10 


45 


12 


46 


3 


47 


16 


48 


5 


49 


18 


50 


12 


51 


10 


52 


6 


53 


10 


54 


12 


55 


6 


S6 


12 


57 


8 


58 


8 


59 


5 


60 


2 


61 


9 


62 


8 


63 


S 


64 


5 



Variety 
Populus fastigiata 
Populus fastigata 
Quercus palustris 
Fraxinus americana 
Acer saccharum 
Salisburia adiantifolia 
Acer polymorphum dissectum rubrum 
Thuya plicatum 
Juniperus elegantissima Leei 
Liquidambar styraciflua 
Viburnum tomentosum 
Lonicera fragrantissima 
Syringa, named varieties 
Hydrangea paniculata 
Pliiladelphus coronarius 
Rosa rugosa 
Buddleia Veitchiana 
Viburnum plicatum 
Lonicera Morrowi 
Abelia grandiflora 
Rhododendron album elegans 
Rhododendron roseum elegans 
Lonicera Morrowi 

Rosa rugosa 
Spiraea Van Houttei 
Spiraea Thunbergii 
Weigela Eva Rathke 

Philadelphus Lemoinei 

Spiraea Van Houttei 

Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora 

Spiraea Thunbergii 

Abelia grandiflora 

Azalea Hinodegiri 

Azalea Hinodegiri 

Spirtea arguta 

Kerria japonica, single 

Iris Silver King 

Hypericum Moserianum 

Rosa multiflora 

Phlox divaricata 

Aquilegia flabeliata nana alba 

Stokesia cyanea 

Iris pallida dalmatica 

Paeony Festiva maxima 

Aster amellus Beauty of Ronsdorf 

Chrysanthemum Julia Lagravere 

Pieony Richardson's grandiflora 

Delphinium formosum 

Dicentra spectabilis 

Helenium Hoopesii 

Veronica longifolia subsessilis 

Phlox Miss Lingard 

Kerria japonica, single 

Hesperis matronalis 

Chrysanthemum Golden Mme. Martha 

Weigela Eva Rathke 

Aquilegia chrysantha 

Phlox Rheinstrom 

Phlox Ardense Grete 

Syringa, named varieties 

Juniperus virginiana 

Phlox Elizabeth Campbell 

Lonicera Morrowi 

Hibiscus syriacus, single 

Philadelphus Mont Blanc 



Cominon Name 
Lombardy Poplars 
Lombardy Poplars 
Pin Oak 
American Ash 
Sugar Maple 
Maidenliair Tree 
Cut-leaved Japanese Maple 
Fern-leaved Arborvitae 
Golden Juniper 
Sweet Gum 

Single Japanese Snowball 
Early Bush Honeysuckle 
Lilacs 

Late Hydrangea 
Mock Orange 
Japanese Rose 
Butterfly Plant 
Japanese Snowball 
Bush Honeysuckle 
Hybrid Abelia 
White Rhododendron 
Pink Rhododendron 
Bush Honeysuckle 
Japanese Rose 
Drooping Spiraea 
Snow Garland 
Red Weigela 
Mock Orange 
Drooping Spiraea 
Large flowering Hydrangea 
Snow Garland 
Hybrid Abelia 
Japanese Azalea 
Japanese Azalea 
Hybrid Spiraea 
Yellow Kerria 
White Flag 
St. John's Wort 
Dwarf Japanese Rose 
Early Blue Phlox 
White Columbine 
Stokes' Aster 
Lavender Flag 
White Peony 
Michaelmas Da;«y 
Red Chrysanthemum 
Peony 

Indigo Larkspur 
Bleeding Heart 
Early Sneezewort 
Speedwell 
Early Phlox 
Single Kerria 
Sweet Rocket 
Yellow Chrysanthemum 
Dark Red Weigela 
Yellow Columbine 
Pink Phlox 
Early White Phlox 
Lilac 

Red Cedar 
Pink Phlox 
Bush Honeysuckle 
Pink Rose of Sharon 
Mock Orange 



PLANTING 
PLAN 

Fig. 179.- 
Showing a good 
treatment of a 
property 
50 feet X 150 
feet, using 
broken flag- 
stones with 
mortar joints 
for the main 
walk and step- 
ping stone walk 
to the service 
quarters and 
the rear lawn. 
The service 
yard enclosed 

by hedge 




246 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 



A property 


and 


garage. 


Key 
No. 


Quan. 


I 

2 

3 

4 
S 


9 

i6 

125 

350 
3 



KEY TO PLANTING PLAN.-Fig. ]80 

75 feet X 1 50 feet, providing space for flower and Rose garden, tea house, pool 
Entrance to the garage is arranged with two cement tracks, with turf between. 



13 


6 


14 


5 


15 


I 


I6 


14 



23 


8 


24 


12 


25 


6 


26 


8 


27 


5 


29 


3 


30 


8 


32 


5 


33, 


3 


34 


I 


35 


1 


36 


2 


37 


4 


39 


I 


40 


15 


41 


5 


42 


9 


42.5 


7 


43 


8 


44 


6 


442 


4 


45 


I 


46 


5 


47 


9 


48 


3 


49 


I 


50 


5 


51 


9 


52 


10 


53 


9 


54 


6 


55 


6 


56 


6 


57 


3 


58 


7 


59 


10 


60 


8 


6i 


5 


62 


I 


65 


9 


66 


12 


67 


6 


68 


12 


69 


8 


70 




71 


I 



Varietj/ 
Juniperus virginiana 
Roses, Hybrid Tea (Standards) 
Hybrid Tea Roses 
Ligustrum ovalifolium 
Spiraea Van Houttei 
T . , . I Key Nos— 6 9 22 28 38 63 

Lonicera Morrow; < ^i — :fr, — 7—; — z 

' I No. Plants-6 6 



Magnolia acuminata 

Viburnum Opulus sterilis 

Buddleia Veitchiana 

Biota orientalis conspicua 

Desmodium japonicum 

Hydrangea quercifolia 

Forsythia suspensa 

Red Siberian Crab 

Dianthus barbatus 

T> u ■ Ti, u • f Key Nos.— 17 

Berbens Tiiunbergi; | ^^^ pj^^^^. 9 

Deutzia Lemoinei 

Phlo.x W. C. Egan 

Iris Silver King 

Rose Pinlc Baby Rambler 

Rose White Baby Rambler 

Rose Hermosa 

Rose Pinli Baby Rambler 

Rosa rugosa 

Lonicera fragrantissima 

Phlox Miss Lingard 

Juniperus Sabina 

Taxus cuspidata 

Larix europaea 

Cornus florida rubra 

Buxus arborescens (Globes 

Taxus cuspidata 

Magnolia conspicua 

Hyoericum Moserianum 

Forsythia suspensa 

Abelia grandifiora 

Hydrangea radiata 

Xanthorriza apiifcilia 

Spiraea Thunbergii 

Syringa vulgaris 

Apple, Grimes' Golden 

Philadelphus coronarius 

Spiraea Margaritae 

Juniperus virginiana glauca 

Liquidambar styraciflua 

Hydrangea paniculata 

ffinothera missouriensis 

Iris Blue Boy 

Chrysanthemum St. Illoria 

Paeonia Van Houttei 

Funkia caerulea 

Phlox Diadem 

Paeonia festiva maxima 

Delphinium chinense 

Iris pumila aurea 

Spiraea Thunbergii 

Pyrus Maulei 

Juniperus Cannarti 

Phlox Eugene Danzanvilliers 

Iris aurea 

Paeonia grandiflora 

Iris pallida dalmatica 

Chrysanthemum Julia LagravSre 

Annuals and Perennials 

Populus fastigiata 



Common Name 
Red Cedar 

Everblooming Roses 
California Privet 
Drooping Spiraea 

> Bush Honeysuckle 



5 3 3J 

Cucumber Tree 

Snowball 

Butterfly Plant 

Columnar Chinese Arborvitae 

Purple Bush Clover 

Oak-leaved Hydrangea 

Drooping Golden Bell 

Crab Apple 

Sweet William 

— I Japanese Barberry 

Lemoine's Deutzia 
Hardy Phlo.x 
White Flag 
Everblooming Rose 
Everbiooming Rose 
Everblooming Rose 
Everblooming Rose 
Japanese Rose 
Early Honeysuckle 
Early Phlox 
Savin Juniper 
Japanese Yew 
European Larch 
Pink Dogwood 
Globe-shaped Box 
Japanese Yew 
White Magnolia 
St. John's Wort 
Drooping Golden Beh 
Hybrid Abelia 
Silver-leaved Hydrangea 
Yellow Root 
Snow Garland 
Lilac 

Mock Orange 

Pink Spiraea 

Blue Cedar 

Sweet Gum 

Late Hydrangea 

Evening Primrose 

German Flag 

Pink Chrysanthemum 

Crimson Peony 

Plantain Lily 

Hardy Phlox 

White Peony 

Chinese Larkspur 

Dwarf Flag 

Show Garland 

Pink Japanese Quince 

Pyramidal Cedar 

Lilac Phlox 

Yellow Flag 

Pink Peony 

Lavender Flag 

Red Chrysanthemum 

Lombardy Poplar 




^;rrrr i 



^:y c y'^ \-^ E- 



PLANTING PL/NS AND KEYS THERETO 



24^^' 



KEY TO PLANTING PLAN.-Fig. 181 



A property 85 feet x 200 feet. Good arrangement 

the street and living-room, with a southeastern 

The fountain and pool are the 



Key 
No. 



Quan. 



23 


5 


24 


8 


25 


12 


26 


6 


27 


8 


28 


II 


29 


6 


30 


7 


31 


12 


32 


3 


ii 


7 


34 


3 


35 


12 


36 


5 


37 


12 


38 


4 


i9 


7 


40 


8 


41 


12 


A1V2 


25 


42 


I 


43 


5 


43 H 


10 


44 


5 


45 


ID 


46 


6 


47 


5 


48 


I 


49 


7 


50 


5 


51 


5 


52 


I 


53 


7 


54 


5 


55 


10 


56 


7 


57 


I 


58 


5 


59 


5 


60 


7 


61 


6 


62 


7 


63 


I 


64 


I 



Variety 
Pinus austriaca 
Styrax japonica 
Syringa Marie Legray 
Weigela Eva Rathke 
Cotoneaster microphylla 
Kerria japonica 
Buddleia Veitchiana 
Picea orientalis 
Abelia grandiflora 
Rhododendron Charles Diclcens 
Rhododendron album elegans 
Juniperus virginiana 
Rhododendron maximum roseum 
Rhododendron Chas. Hagley 
Rhododendron Mrs. John Glutton 
Cedrus Deodara 
Hibiscus syriacus, single pink 
Hydrangea paniculata 
Buddleia Veitchii 
Genista tinctoria 
Spiraea Thunbergii 
Pinus Strobus 
Cornus florida 
Cercis japonica 
Hypericum Moserianum 
Hydrangea Otaksa 
Viburnum plicatum 
Spiraea A. Waterer 
Forsythia suspensa 
Syringa vulgaris 
Desmodium penduliflorum 
Thuya Geo. Peabody 
Lonicera Morrowi 
Tilia europaea 
Rosa rubiginosa 
Rosa rugosa, red 
Rosa, Baby Rambler white 
Kerria japonica 
Spiraea Thunbergii 
Buddleia Veitchiana 
Hypericum Moserianum 
Philadelphus Mont Blanc 
Retinispora obtusa nana 
Weigela Eva Rathke 
Cotoneaster microphylla 
Hydrangea quercifolia 
Deutzia gracilis 

Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora 
Hibiscus syriacus, blue and white 
Tsuga canadensis 
Caryopteris mastacanthus 
Lonicera fragrantissima 
Cornus florida rubra 
Pinus Strobus 
Rhodotypos kerrioides 
Weigela rosea 
Spiraea Thunbergii 
Buddleia Veitchii 
Pseudostuga Douglas! 
Lonicera Morrowi 
Syringa vulgaris 
Spiraea Thunbergii 
Caryopteris mastacanthus 
Forsythia suspensa 
Koelreuteria paniculata 
Picea pungens Kosteriana 



for residence with kitchen wing toward' 
exposure, looking out on the lawn- 
interesting features 

Common Name 
Austrian Pine 
Japanese Styrax 
White Lilac 
Dark Red Weigela 
Small-leaved Rose Box 
Single Corchorus 
Butterfly Plant 
Oriental Spruce 
Hybrid Abelia 
Crimson Rhododendron 
White Rhododendron 
Red Cedar 
Pink Rhododendron 
Crimson Rhododendron 
White Rhododendron 
True Cedar 
Rose of Sharon 
Late Hydrangea 
Butterfly Plant 
Broom 

Snow Garland 
White Pine 
White Dogwood 
Japanese Judas 
St. John's Wort 

Pink Large-flowering Hydrangeaj 
Japanese Snowball 
Dwarf Pink Spiraea 
Drooping Golden Bell 
Lilac 

Bush Clover 
Golden .Arborvitae 
Japanese Bush Honeysuckle 
European Linden 
Sweet Brier Rose 
Japanese Rose 
Dwarf Everblooming Rose 
Single Corchorus 
Snow Garland 
Butterfly Plant 
St. John's Wort 
Mock Orange 
Dwarf Japanese Cedar 
Dark Red Weigela 
Small-leaved Rose Box 
Oak-leaved Hydrangea 
Slender Deutzia 
Large-flowering Hydrangea 
Rose of Sharon 
Hemlock 
Blue Spiraea 

Fragrant Bush Honeysuckle 
Pink Dogwood 
White Pine 
White Kerria 
Pink Weigela 
Snow Garland 
Butterfly Plant 
Douglas Spruce 
Bush Honeysuckle 
Lilac 

Snow Garland 
Blue Spira?a 
Golden Bell 
Varnish Tree 
Blue Spruce 



250 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 



KEY TO PLANTING PLAN.-Fig. 181 -Continued 



Key 
No. 

65 

66 

67 

68 

69 

70 

71 

72 

73 

74 

75 

76 

77 

78 

79 

80 

81 

82 

83 

84 

85 

86 

87 

88 

89 

90 

91 

92 

93 

94 

95 

96 

97 

98 

99 
100 
101 
102 
103 
104 
105 
106 
107 
108 
109 
IIO 

III 

112 
113 
114 

IIS 

116 
117 
118 
119 

120 
121 
122 
123 
124 
125 
126 
127 
128 



Quan. 



Variety 
Larix europaea 
Magnolia Soulangeana 
Populus fastigiata 
Betula nigra 
Red Siberian Crab 
Fraxinus americana 
Cerasus japonica rosea pendula 
Cryptomeria Lobbi compacta 
Leucothoe Catesbaei 
Mahonia japonica 
Mahonia aquifolia 
Azalea Hinodegiri 
Retinispora obtusa gracilis 
Leucothoe Catesbaei 
Mahonia japonica 
Hypericum Moserianum 
Rhododendron roseum elegans 
Rhododendron atrosanguineum 
Andromeda floribunda 
Rhododendron maximum roseum 
Azalea indica alba 
Rhododendron maximum roseum 
Rhododendron Mrs. J. Clutton 
Thuya occidentalis pyramidalis 
Cotoneaster Simonsii 
Lonicera fragrantissima 
Cotoneaster Simonsii 
Thuya occidentalis pyramidalis 
Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora 
Desmodium penduliflorum 
Lonicera fragrantissima 
Juniperus virginiana glauca 
Spiraea A. Waterer 
Kerria japonica fl. pi. 
Viburnum plicatum 
Biota orientalis pyramidalis 
Spiraea callosa rosea 
Yucca filamentosa 
Buddleia Veitchii 
Juniperus virginiana 
Leucothoe Catesbaei 
Mahonia aquifolia 
Azalea indica alba 
Deutzia gracilis 
Retinispora filifera 
Juniperus elegantissima Leei 
Salisburia adiantifolia 
Juniperus Pfitzeriana 
Phlox Ardensi Amanda 
Viola cornuta, purple 
Antirrhinum, yellow 
Iris pallida dalmatica 
Phlox Von Lassburg 
Delphinium formosum 
Heliotrope Chieftain 
Geranium, white 
Antirrhinum, yellow 
Viola cornuta, blue 
Phlox Elizabeth Campbell 
Heliopsis Pitcheriana 
Iris Kaempferi 
Phlox Ardensi Amanda 
Heliotrope Chieftain 
Geranium, white 



Common Name 
European Linden 
Pink Magnolia 
Lombardy Poplar 
Red Birch 
Crab Apple 
American Ash 
Weeping Cherry 
Pyramidal Cryptomeria 
Pipewood 

Japanese Evergreen Barberry 
Holly-leaved Barberry 
Evergreen Azalea 
Thread-leaved Cedar 
Pipewood 

Japanese Evergreen Barberry 
St. John's Wort 
Pink Rhododendron 
Crimson Rhododendron 
Early Andromeda 
Pink Rhododendron 
White Azalea 
Pink Rhododendron 
White Rhododendron 
Pyramidal Arborvitae 
Shining Rose Box 
Fragrant Honeysuckle 
Shining Rose Box 
Pyramidal Arborvitae 
Large-flowering Hydrangea 
Bush Clover 

Fragrant Bush Honeysuckle 
Blue Cedar 
Dwarf Pink Spiraea 
Double Corchorus 
Japanese Snowball 
Chinese Arborvitae 
Pink Spiraea 
Adam's Needle 
Butterflv Plant 
Red Cedar 
Pipewood 

Holly-leaved Barberry 
White Azalea 
Slender Deutzia 
Lace-leaved Cedar 
Golden Juniper 
Maidenhair Tree 
Pfitzer's Cedar 
Early Phlox 
Tufted Pansy 
Snapdragon 
Lavender Flag 
White Phlox 
Indigo Larkspur 
Heliotrope 
Geranium 
Snapdragon 
Tufted Pansy 
Pink Phlox 
Orange Sunflower 
Japanese Iris 
Early Phlox 
Heliotrope 
Geranium 



PLANTING PLANS AND KEYS THERETO 



251 



KEY TO PLANTING PLAN.-Fig. 182 

Lot 180 feet X 240 feet. Treatment for a residence with a steep slope at the front and rear 

of the lot. The residence has a basement entrance with living rooms on the upper 

level, about ten feet above the pavement. The steep slopes are planted 

with shrubs and small trees of spiny or twiggy growth, affording 

protection without a fence or hedge, presenting a 

naturalistic appearance and providing a 

cover for birds 



Key 
No. 


Quan. 


Variety 


Common Name 


I 


IS 


Juniperus virginiana 


Red Cedar 


2 


IS 


Spiraea Van Houttei 


Drooping Spiraea 


3 


50 


Rosa rubiginosa 


Sweet Brier 


4 


15 


Crataegus cordata 


Washington Thorn 


5 


30 


Hibiscus syriacus 


Rose of Sharon 


6 


30 


Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora 


Large-flowering Hydrangea 


7 


12 


Paeonia I'Esperance 


Peony 


8 


20 


Phlox divaricata 


Early Blue Phlox 


9 


20 


Iris Silver King 


White Flag 


10 


35 


Phlox Elizabeth Campbell 


Pink Hardy Phlox 


II 


35 


Aster grandiflorus 


Michaelmas Daisy 


12 


15 


Paeonia Van Houttei 


Crimson Peony 


13 


40 


Rudbeckia Newmani 


Black-eyed Susan 


14 


20 


Pentstemon Torreyi 


Beard's Tongue 


15 


25 


Delphinium formosum 


Indigo Larkspur 


i6 


IS 


Delphinium chinense 


Chinese Larkspur 


17 


20 


Funkia cferulea 


Plantain Lily 


l8 


20 


Phlox Miss Lingard 


Early Phlox 


19 


12 


Dianthus barbatus 


Sweet William 


20 


IS 


Delphinium elatum 


Tall Blue Larkspur 


21 


16 


Aster alpinus 


Alpine Aster 


22 


18 


Iris Mme. Chereau 


German Iris 


23 


12 


Paeonia festiva maxima 


White Peony 


24 


30 


Delphinium elatum 


Tall Blue Larkspur 


25 


25 


Rudbeckia Newmani 


Black-eyed Susan 


26 


10 


Dicentra spectabilis 


Bleeding Heart 


27 


15 


Geum coccineum 


Avens 


28 


20 


Delphinium formosum 


Indigo Larkspur 


29 


30 


Phlox Crete 


Early Phlox 


30 


20 


Iris pallida dalmatica 


Lavender Flag 


31 


15 


Funkia caerulea 


Plantain Lily 


32 


20 


Dicentra spectabilis 


Bleeding Heart 


33, 


15 


Chrysanthemum Golden Queen 


Hardy Chrysanthemum 


34 


20 


Delphinium formosum 


Indigo Larkspur 


35 


20 


Aster amellus elegans 


Michaelmas Daisy 


36 


18 


Phlox Miss Lingard 


Early Phlox 


37 


30 


Iris Kaempferi 


Japanese Flag 


38 


30 


Digitalis purpurea 


Foxgloves 


39 


20 


Doronicum plantagineum 


Leopard's Bane 


40 


25 


Scabiosa caucasica alba 


White Sultan 


41 


20 


Phlox Rheinstrom 


Pink Phlox 


42 


30 


Eupatorium caelestinum 


Hardy Ageratum 


43 


40 


Aquilegia canadensis 


Red Columbine 


44 


25 


Helenium Hoopesii 


Early Sneezewort 


45 


40 


Digitalis purpurea 


Foxgloves 


46 


12 


Aucuba japonica. green 


Japanese Laurel 


47 


10 


Abelia grandiflora 


Hybrid Abelia 


48 


10 


Tsuga canadensis 


Hemlock 




15 


Tsuga canadensis 


Hemlock 


49 


30 


Cornus florida 


White Dogwood 




10 


Populus fastigiata 


Lombardy Poplar 


so 


10 


Tsuga canadensis 


Hemlock 




26 


Crataegus cordata 


Washington Thorn 


SI 


25 


Syringa persica 


Persian Lilac 


52 


40 


Abelia grandiflora 


Hybrid Abelia 


S3 


20 


Ligustrum Regelianum 


Regel's Privet 


54 


12 


Euonymus alatus 


Cork-barked Spindle Tree 


55 


15 


Cornus stolonifora 


Red-twigged Dogwood 


S6 


30 


Stephanandra flexuosa 


Stephanandra 


57 


30 


Forsythia suspensa 


Drooping Golden Bell 


S8 


I 


Abies Veitchii 


Veitch's Fir 




PLANTING PLAN.— Fig. 182.— Lot is 180x249 ft. See Key. pages 251 and 253 



PLANTING PLANS AND KEYS THERETO 



253 



KEY TO PLANTING PLAN.-Fig. 182-Continued 



Key 




No. 


Quan. 


59 


I 


60 


I 


61 


3 


6li 


I 


62 


r 


63 


I 


64 


20 


65 


40 


66 


12 


67 


20 


68 


25 


69 


15 


70 


16 


71 


18 


72 


IS 


73 


7 


74 


20 


75 


10 


76 


25 


76i 


21 



83 


40 


84 


30 


85 


15 


86 


30 


87 


IS 


88 


30 


89 


IS 


90 


5 


91 


10 


92 


15 


93 


20 


94 


I 


95 


I 


96 


I 


97 


I 


98 


20 


99 


30 


100 


60 


lOI 


SO 


102 


50 


103 


50 


104 


20 


I OS 


7 


106 


8 


107 


20 


108 


25 


109 


12 


no 


20 


III 


12 


112 


20 


113 


IS 


114 


100 


IIS 


14 


116 


8 


117 


30 


118 


15 


119 


15 


120 


250 


131 


9 


122 


20 



Variety 
Betula alba 
Quercus rubra 
Styrax japonica 
Quercus palustris 
Cedrus Deodora 
Cedrela sinensis 
Mahonia japonica 
Ligustrum lucidum 
Thuya occidentalis 
Spiraea Van Houttei 
Ciirysantliemum Julia LagravSre 
Rudbeckia Newmani 
Lonicera fragrantissima 
Digitalis purpurea 
Helianthus mollis 
Thuya occidentalis pyramidalis 
Spiraea A. Waterer 
Yucca filamentosa 
Hypericum Moserianum 
Salisburia adiantifolia 
Rhodotypos kerrioides 
Viburnum dentatum 
Holiopsis Pitcheriana 
Dicentra spectabilis 
Phlox Miss Lingard 
Pentstemon barbatus 
Berberis Thunbergii 
Hesperis matronalis 
Iris aurea 

Eupatorium caelestinum 
Funkia caerulea 
Bocconia cordata 
Aster laevis 

Viburnum tomentosum 
Mahonia aquifolia 
Hypericum Moserianum 
Berberis ilicifoha 
Cryptomeria japonica 
Fagus sylvatica Riversi 
Magnolia Soulangeana 
Picea pungens Kosteriana 
Magnolia glauca 
Cornus stolonifera 
Berberis Thunbergii 
Symphoricarpos vulgaris 
Rosa rubiginosa 
Ligustrum Regelianum 
Berberis Thunbergii 
Juniperus virginiana 
Pyrus japonica 
Exochorda grandiflora 
Lonicera Morrowi 
Syringa vulgaris 
Callicarpa purpurea 
Pentstemon Torreyi 
Phlox divaricata 
Hesperis matronalis 
Phlox Elizabeth Campbell 
Hydrangea arborescens grandiflora alba 
Hydrangea paniculata, late 
Phlox divaricata 
Rhododendron Charles Dickens 
Rhododendron roseum elegans 
Buxus sempervirens 
Juniperus Schottii 
Rhododendron, Hybrids 



Common Name 
White Birch 
Red Oak 
Styrax 
Pin Oak 
True Cedar 
Chinese Cedrela 
Holly-leaved Barberry 
Evergreen Holly 
Arborvitae 
Drooping Spiraea 
Dark Red Chrysanthemum 
Black-eyed Susan 
Early Fragrant Honeysuckle 
Foxglove 
Sunflower 

Pyramidal Arborvitae 
Dwarf Pink Spira?a 
Adam's Needle 
St. John's Wort 
Maidenhair Tree 
White Kerria 
Arrow Wood 
Orange Sunflower 
Bleeding Heart 
Early Phlox 
Sweet William 
Japanese Barberry 
Rocket 
Yellow Flag 
Hardy Chrysanthemum 
Plantain Lily 
Plume Poppy 
Lavender Aster 
Japanese Snowball 
Holly-leaved Barberry 
St. John's Wort 
Holly-leaved Barberry 
Cryptomeria 
Purple Beech 
Pink Magnolia 
Blue Spruce 
Sweet Bay 

Red-twigged Dogwood 
Japanese Barberry 
Coral Berry 
Sweet Brier 
Regel Privet 
Japanese Barberry 
Red Cedar 
Japanese Quince 
Pearl Bush 

Japanese Bush Honeysuckle 
Lilacs 

Beauty Berry 
Beard's Tongue 
Early Blue Phlox 
Sweet Rocket 
Pink Phlox 
Hills of Snow 
Late Hydrangea 
Early Blue Phlox 
Dark Red Rhododendron 
Pink Rhododendron 
Box edging 
Schott's Cedar 
Hybrid Rhododendron 



254 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 




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PLANTING PLANS AND KEYS THERETO 



255 



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PLANTING PLAN.— Fig. 183 

Fig. 183.— Lot 190 feet by 190 feet. Residence lot designed to provide a flower garden- 

garage, enclosed service yard and croquet lawn. The interesting features are a 

terrace walk as shown in Fig. 55, stepping stone walk in lawn as shown in 

Fig. 6 and unique entrance arrangement as shown in Fig. 33 



PLAxNTING PLANS AND KEYS THERETO 



257 



Arrangement 


Key 




No. 


Quan. 


I 


3 


2 


3 


3 


5 


4 


6 


5 


7 


6 


6 


7 


2 


8 


9 


9 


5 


10 


6 


II 


8 


12 


8 


13 


4 


14 


5 


IS 


35 


i6 


25 


17 


35 


l8 


12 


19 


30 


20 


15 


21 


25 


22 


6 


23 


5 


24 


12 


25 


S 


26 


8 


27 


30 


28 


30 


29 


S 


30 


9 


31 


II 


32 


II 


33 


20 


34 


12 


35 


8 


36 


9 


37 


II 


38 


9 


39 


10 


40 


12 


41 


10 


42 


12 


43 


6 


44 


5 


45 


7 


46 


6 


47 


S 


48 


14 


49 


I 


50 


I 


51 


5 


52 


6 


53 


12 


54 


4 


55 


12 


S6 


I 


57 


14 


S8 


8 


59 


5 


6o 


7 


6i 


10 


62 


8 


63 


8 


64 


8 


6S 


14 


66 


6 


67 


15 



KEY TO PLANTING PLAN.-Fig. 184 
designed for a contractor's residence, with detached office and good service 
yard arrangement 



Variety 
Viburnum plicatum 
Forsythia suspensa 
Calycanthus floridus 
Weigela Eva Rathke 
Philadelphus coronarius 
Hydrangea p. g. 
Thuya occidentalis globosa 
Azalea Hinodegiri 
Rhododendron Charles. Dickens 
Rhododendron Mrs. J. Glutton 
Azalea Hinodegiri 
Rhodotypos kerrioides 
Hibiscus syriacus, single 
Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora 
Carnation (annual) 
Larkspur (annual) 
Zinnias, clear yellow 
Papaver nudicaule 
Heliotrope Chieftain 
Chrysanthemum, Shasta Daisy 
QSnothera missouriensis 
Iris Mme. Chereau 
Berberis Thunbergii 
Aster Alpinus 
Berberis vulgaris 
Funkia caerulea 
Begonias 
Begonias 

Abelia grandiflora 
Funkia caerulea 
Phlox Von Lassburg 
Chrysanthemum Shasta Daisy 
Hypericum Moserianum 
Azalea amoena 

Rhododendron roseum elegans 
Rhododendron album elegans 
Rhododendron Everestianum 
Rhododendron, Charles Dickens 
Abelia grandiflora 
Calluna vulgaris 
Abelia grandiflora 
Spiraea A. Waterer 
Ligustrum Regelianum 
Spiraea Thunbergii 
Spiraea Van Houttei 
Juniperus Schottii 
Spiraea Thunbergii 
Iris Yolande 
Cornus florida 
Cedrela sinensis 
Cercis japonica 

Thuya occidentalis pyramidalis 
Desmodium penduliflorum 
Paeonia Andre Lauris 
Iris Kaempferi 
Cornus florida rubra 
Oenothera missouriensis 
Chrysanthemum arcticum 
Paeonia Van Houttei 
Buddleia Veitchiana 
Hesperis matronalis 
Hypericum Moserianum 
Aquilegia canadensis 
Mahonia aquifolia 
Deutzia gracilis 
Amygdalus nana, pink 
Phlox divaricata 



Common Name 
Japanese Snowball 
Drooping Golden Bell 
Old-fashioned Sweet Shrub 
Dark Red Weigela 
Mock Orange 

Large-flowering Hydrangea 
Globe Arborvitae 
Japanese Evergreen Azalea 
Hybrid Rhododendron 
Hybrid Rhododendron 
Evergreen Azalea 
White Kerria 
Pink Rose of Sharon 
Large-flowering Hydrangea 



Youth and Old Age 
Iceland Poppy 



Shasta Daisy 
Evening Primrose 
White Blue Flag 
Japanese Barberry 
Alpine Aster 
Common Barberry 
Plantain Lily 



Hybrid Abelia 
Plantain Lily 
White Phlox 

St. John's Wort 
Evergreen Azalea 
Hybrid Rhododendron 
Hybrid Rhododendron 
Hybrid Rhododendron 
Hybrid Rhododendron 
Hybrid Abelia 
Scotch Heather 
Hybrid Abelia 
Dwarf Pink Spiraea 
Regel's Privet 
Snow Garland 
Drooping Spiraea 
Schott's Juniper 
Snow Garland 
Purple Flag 
Dogwood 
Cedrela 

Japanese Judas 
Arborvitae 
Bush Clover 
Peony 

Japanese Iris 
Pink Dogwood 
Evening Primrose 
Arctic Daisy 
Peony 

Butterfly Plant 
Sweet Rocket 
St. John's Wort 
Red Columbine 
Holly-leaved Barberry 
Dwarf Deutzia 
Flowering Almond 
Early Blue Phlox 



258 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 



KEY TO PLANTING PLAN.-Fig. 1 84-Continued 



Common Name 
White Flag 
White Peony 
Foxglove 
Foxglove 
Early Phlox 
Yellow Day Lily 
Cowslip 
Yellow Flag 
Pink Chrysanthemum 
Yellow Columbine 
Pink Aster 
Plantain Lily 
Indigo Larkspur 
Chinese Larkspur 
Blanket Flower 
Japanese Iris 
Pearl Bush 
Snake Root 
Pink Weigela 
Golden Bell 
Late Hydrangea 



Early Blue Phlox 
Japanese Iris 
Pink Phlox 
Hybrid Larkspur 

Snapdragon 

Sugar Maple 

Pin Oak 

Red Japanese Maple 

Maidenhair Tree Ginkgo 
Lombardy Poplar 
Yellow-twigged Linden 
Pink Climbing Rose 
White Climbing Rose 



Key 






No. 


Quan 


Variety 


68 


7 


Iris Silver King 


69 


6 


Peeonia festiva maxima 


70 


8 


Digitalis purpurea 


71 


8 


Digitalis purpurea 


72 


8 


Phlox Miss Lingard 


73 


7 


Hemerocallis flava 


74 


10 


Primula polyantha 


75 


12 


Iris Germanica aurea 


76 


10 


Chrysanthemum St. Illoria 


77 


9 


Aquilegia chrysantha 


78 


8 


Aster amellus elegans 


79 


10 


Funkia caerulea 


8o 


ID 


Delphinium formosum 


8i 


10 


Delphinium chinense 


82 


10 


Gaillardia grandiflora 


83 


8 


Iris Kaempferi 


84 


5 


Exochorda grandiflora 


85 


20 


Eupatorium ageratoides 


86 


6 


Weigela rosea 


87 


6 


Forsythia viridissima 


88 


8 


Hydrangea paniculata 


89 


20 


Hybrid Tea Roses 


90 


15 


Aster, Blue (annual) 


91 


12 


Phlox divaricata 


92 


10 


Iris Kaempferi 


93 


10 


Phlox Elizabeth Campbell 


94 


8 


Delphinium elatum 


95 


25 


Ageratum 


96 


12 


Antirrhinum, yellow 


97 


I 


Acer saccharum 


98 


I 


Quercus palustris 


99 


2 


Acer polymorphum atropurpureum 


100 


2 


Roses, standards 


lOI 


I 


Salisburia adiantifolia 


102 


10 


Populus fastigiata 


103 


I 


Tilia dasystyla 




f I 


Rose Tausendschon 


104 


1 I 


Rose Alberic Barbier 




PLANTING PLANS AND KEYS THERETO 



259 



KEY TO PLANTING PLAN-Fig. 186 

Fig. 186.— Treatment designed to attract birds and at the same time decrease the lawn 
area, thus reducing greatly the cost of maintenance 



Key 




No. 


Quart. 


I 


35 


2 


35 


3 


25 


4 


10 


5 


17 


6 


12 


7 


7 


8 


40 


9 


20 


10 


50 


II 


30 




20 


12 


50 


13 


60 


14 


20 


IS 


20 


i6 


5 


17 


30 


i8 


20 


19 


IS 


20 


35 


21 


35 


22 


7 


23 


30 


24 


25 


25 


35 




30 


26 


20 


26H 


10 


27 


75 


27H 


10 


28 


40 


29 


20 


30 


5 


31 


30 


32 


30 


33 


15 


34 


30 


35 


35 


36 


35 


37 


45 


38 


40 


39 


30 


40 


50 


41 


35 


42 


45 


43 


35 


44 


65 


45 


45 


46 


50 


47 


40 


48 


15 


49 


40 


50 


25 


51 


25 


52 


18 


S3 


15 


54 


30 


SS 


20 




30 


S6 


20 


57 


30 


S8 


SO 


59 


14 


6o 


40 


6i 


20 


62 


2S 



Variety 
Berberis Thunbergii 
Mahonia japonica 

Euonymus Bungeanus 

Euonymus americana 

Cerasus pennsylvanica 

Viburnum Opulus sterilis 

Cornus florida 

Symphoricarpos vulgaris 

Cotoneaster Simonsii 

Ligustrum Regelianum 

Ribes aureum 

Itea virginica 

Berberis Thunbergii 

Ligustrum Quilioui 

Crataegus Crus-galli 

Ptiotinia villosa 

Cerasus Jas. H. Veitch 

Cornus stolonifera 

Eyonymus alatus 

Lonicera tatarica 

Aralia pentaphylla 

CalUcarpa purpurea 

Crataegus cordata 

Sambucus pubens 

Lonicera Morrowi 

Aralia spinosa 

Pinus Strobus 

Eleagnus longipes (fruiting) 

Crataegus Lelandi 

Rtius copallina 

Lonicera Morrowi, Yellow Berried 

Rhus copallina 

Crataegus pyracantha 

Amelanchier botryapium 

Ilex verticillata 

Lindea benzoin 

Crataegus cordata 

Lonicera Morrowi 

Pyrus arbutifolia 

Euonymus alatus 
Crataegus Crus-galli 
Myrica cerifera 
Ligustrum Regelianum 
Viburnum dentatum 
Chionanthus virginica 
Rhodotypos kerrioides 
Cornus alternifolia 
Symphoricarpos vulgaris 
Viburnum cassinoides 
Ilex glabra 
Viburnum Lantana 
Crataegus Oxycantha 
Cornus sibirica 
Pinus rigida 
Viburnum prunifolium 
Rhamnus caroliniensis 
Pinus Mughus 
Cornus paniculata 
Berberis Thunbergii 
Berberis vulgaris 
Cornus florida 
Cornus mascula 
Viburnum dilitatum 
Lonicera Ruprechtiana 
Tsuga canadensis 
Cornus florida 
Eleagnus longipes 



Common Name 

Japanese Barberry 

Holly-leaved Barberry 

Chinese Spindle Tree 

Strawberry Tree 

Honey Cherry 

High Bush Cranberry 

White Dogwood 

Coral Berry 

Shining Rose Box 

Regel's Privet 

Flowering Currant 

Virginian Willow 

Japanese Barberry 

Evergreen Privet 

Shining Thorn 

Photinia 

Japanese Cherry 

Red-twigged Dogwood 

Cork-barked Spindle Tree 

Tartarian Honeysuckle 

Dwarf Angelica Tree 

Beauty Berry 

Washington Thorn 

Red-berried Elder 

Japanese Bush Honeysuckle 

Hercules' Club 

White Pine 

Silver Thorn 

Evergreen Thorn 

Shining Sumach 

Bush Honeysuckle 

Shining Sumach 

Evergreen Thorn 

June Berry 

Deciduous Holly 

Spice Bush 

VVashington Thorn 

Bush Honeysuckle 

Choke Berry 

Cork-barked Spindle Tree 

Shining Thorn 

Wax Myrtle 

Regel's Privet 

Arrow Wood 

White Fringe 

White Kerria 

Blue Dogwood 

Cora! Berry 

Withe Rod 

Inkberry 

Wayfaring Tree 

English Hawthorn 

Red-twigged Cornel 

Pitch Pine 

Sheep Berry 

Buckthorn 

Dwarf Pine 

Panicled Dogwood 

Japanese Barberry 

Common Barberry 

White Dogwood 

Cornelian Cherry 

Japanese Bush Cranberry 

Bush Honeysuckle 

Hemlock Spruce 

White Dogwood 

Silver Thorn 



260 



PRACTICAL I^ANDSCAPE GARDENING 




PLANTING PLAN— Fig. 186 

Lot is 360x480 ft. 
See Key, pages 259 and 261 



PLANTING PLANS AND KEYS THERETO 



261 



KEY TO PLANTING PLAN-Fig. 186-Continued 



Key 








No. 


Quan. 


Variety 


Commo7i Name 


63 


50 


Symphoricarpus racemosus 


Snowberry 


64 


I 


Ulmus americana 


American Elm 


6S 


I 


Tilia americana 


American Linden 


66 


I 


Acer saccharum 


Sugar Maple 


67 


3 


Populus fastigiata 


Lombardy Poplar 


68 


2 


Quercus palustris 


Pin Oak 


69 


2 


Buxus arborescens, untrimmed 


Old-fashioned Box 


70 


3 


Quercus coccinea 


Scarlet Oak 


71 


I 


Quercus rubra 


Red Oak 


72 


I 


Quercus rubra 


Red Oak 


73 


7 


Rhododendron Charles Dickens 


Hybrid Rhododendron 


74 


7 


Azalea indica alba 


White Azalea 


75 


7 


Rhododendron Mrs. J. Glutton 


White Rhododendron 


76 


12 


Abelia grandifiora 


Hybrid Abelia 


77 


12 


Rliododendron album elcgans 


Hybrid Rhododendron 


78 


5 


Rhododendron Charles Dickeni 


Hybrid Rhododendron 


79 


7 


Azalea Hinod( giri 


Evergreen Azalea 


80 


10 


Abelia grandifiora 


Hybrid Abelia 


81 


8 


Rhododendron album elegans 


White Rhododendron 


82 


8 


Rhododendron John Waterer 


Hybrid Rhododendron 


83 


9 


Rhododendron roseum elegans 


Hybrid Rhododendron 


84 


14 


Azalea HinodcRiri 


Evergreen Azalea 


85 


14 


Hypericum Moserianum 


St. John's Wort 


86 


6 


Azalea indica alba 


White Azalea 


87 


5 


Aucuba japonica, green 


Japanese Laurel 


88 


8 


Abelia grandifiora 


Hybrid Abelia 


89 


6 


Spiraea Thunbergii 


Snow Garland 


90 


7 


Lonicera Morrow i 


Bush Honeysuckle 


91 


12 


Phlox Elizabeth Campbell 


Pink Hardy Phlox 


92 


8 


Phlox Crete 


Early Phlox 


93 


12 


Iris Silver King 


White Flag 


94 


12 


Paeonia Andre Lauris 


Red Peony 


95 


6 


Buddleia Veitchii 


Butterfiv Shrub 


96 


14 


Phlox Von Lassburg 


White Phlox 


97 


10 


Phlox Eugene Danzanvilliers 


Mauve Phlox 


98 


7 


Kerria japonica, single 


Yellow Kerria 


99 


10 


Chrysanthemum Golden Mme. Martha 


Yellow Chrysanthemum 


100 


7 


Rhodotypos kerrioides 


White Kerria 


101 


10 


Funk'a caerulea 


Plantain Lily 


102 


12 


Pentstemon Torreyi 


Beard's Tongue 


103 


8 


Dianthus barbatus, white 


Sweet William 


104 


5 


Morus tatarica 


Russian Mulberry 


105 


6 


Quercus rubra 


Red Oak 


106 


2 


Cerasus pennsylvanica 


Wild Cherry 


107 


2 


Prunus serotina 


Wild Black Cherry 


108 


I 


Quercus tinctoria 


Black Oak 


109 


2 


Larix europaea 


European Larch 


IIO 


2 


Kcelreuteria paniculata 


Varnish Tree 


III 


3 


Pyrus americana 


Mountain Ash 


112 


3 


Magnolia acuminata 


Cucumber Tree 


113 


I 


Quercus palustris 


Pin Oak 





PLANTING 

PLAN 

Fig. 188 

Lot is 90xl90;.ft. 

See Key 
Pages 263 and 264 



f^^ 



PLANTING PLANS AND KEYS THERETO 



263 



KEY TO PLANTING PLAN.- Fig. 188 

Unusual flower garden, designed on informal lines, planted with perennials and annuals 
to provide an abundance of bloom in masses throughout the Summer 

Common Name 
Golden Bell 
Mock Orange 
Late Hydrangea 
Silver-leaved Pyramidal Pop- 
lar 
Rock Cress 
Daffodil 
Red Cedar 
Pyramidal Juniper 
Lavender Flag 
Lilacs 

Gold Banded Lily 
Golden Glow 
Larkspur 

Lavender Blue Hardy Aster 
Yellow Chrysanthemum 

Cornflower 
Peach-leaved Bellflower 

Bluets 

Japanese Lilies 
Foxglove 
Hardy Ageratum 
Pyramidal Juniper 
Chinese Pyramidal Juniper 
Pyramidal Cedar 
Pyramidal Cedar 
Pyramidal Cedar 
Pyramidal Cedar 

Pyramidal Cedar 
Pyramidal Cedar 

California Privet 
Yellow Gladiolus 
Pink Peony 
Oriental Arborvitae 

Larkspur 
Pink Phlox 

Fern-leaved Arborvitae 
Early White Phlox 



Bellflower 

Tufted Pansy 

Dwarf Japanese Cypress 



Key 






No. 


Qxian. 


Variety 


I 


3 


Forsythia viridissima 




3 


Philadelphus coronarius 




3 


Hydrangea paniculata, late 


2 


2 


Populus Bolleana 


3 


25 


Arabis albida 




SO 


Narcissus Von Sion 


4 


9 


Juniperus virginiana 


S 


I 


Juniperus Schottii 


6 


SO 


Iris pallida dalmatica 


7 


18 


Syringa, named kinds 


8 


20 


Lilium auratum 


9 


8 


Rudbeckia laciniata fl. pL 


10 


37 


Delphinium hybridum 


II 


8 


Aster novi-belgii, var. Climax 


12 


30 


Chrysanthemum Boston 


13 


30 


Marigolds 


14 


9 


Centaurea montana 


IS 


15 


Campanula persicifolia 


i6 


9 


Paeonia, named kinds 


17 


30 


Houstonia serpyllifolia 




30 


Pansies 


i8 


20 


Lilium speciosum roseum 


19 


25 


Digitalis purpurea 


20 


IS 


Eupatorium caelestinum 


21 




Juniperus Cannarti 


22 




Juniperus chinensis 


23 




Juniperus Schottii 


24 




Juniperus Cannarti 


25 




Juniperus virginiana glauca 


26 




Juniperus chinensis 


27 


18 


Marigolds 


28 


2 


Juniperus Cannarti 


29 


2 


Juniperus Cannarti 


29>4 


2 


Ligustrum ovalifoliuni (to form 
an arch) 


30 


20 


Gladiolus Sulphur King 




20 


Paeonia edulis superba 


31 


I 


Biota orientalis conspicua 


32 


20 


Mignonette 


3i 


30 


Delphinium (annual) 


34 


27 


Phlox Elizabeth Campbell 


35 


I 


Thuya plicata 


36 


45 


Phlox, Miss Lingard 


37 


40 


Heliotrope 


38 


20 


Shasta Daisy 


39 


I 


Cryptomeria japonica 


40 


40 


Ageratum 


41 


40 


Zinnias, salmon pink 


42 


27 


Campanula latifolia macrantha 


43 


20 


Clarkia 


44 


30 


\'iold lutea splendens 


45 


25 


China Asters, pink 


46 


I 


Retinispora obtusa nana 


47 


40 


Ageratum 


47H 


40 


Zinnias, clear yellow 


48 


3 


Forsythia viridissima 




3 


Exorchorda grandiflora 




3 


Hydrangea paniculata, late 


49 


45 


Phlox, Mrs. Jenkins 


50 


I 


Cryptomeria japonica 


51 


45 


Iberis sempervirens 


52 


65 


Scabiosa (Pansies along edge) 


53 


5 


Papaver orientale 


54 


48 


Phlox Rheinlander 


55 . 


I 


Biota orientalis conspicua 


56 


45 


Viola cornuta purpurea 



Golden Bell 
Pearl Bush 
Late Hydrangea 
White Phlox 

Candytuft 
Blue Bonnet 
Oriental Poppy 
Salmon Pink Phlox 
Oriental Arborvitae 
Tufted Pansy 



264 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 



KEY TO PLANTING PLAN.-Fig. 188-Continued 



Key 




No. Quan. 


57 


27 


58 


I 


59 


50 


60 


26 


61 


30 


62 


I 


63 


25 




IS 


64 


15 


65 


6 




16 


66 


I 


67 


I 


68 


20 


68^ 


I 


69 


I 


70 


I 


71 


I 


72 


20 




25 


73 


40 


74 


25 


75 


27 


76 


18 


77 


30 


78 


17 


79 


SO 




50 


80 


5 


81 


5 


82 


5 


83 


5 


84 


5 


85 


5 


86 


3 


87 


I 


88 


IS 


89 


9 


90 




91 




91H 




92 




93 




94 


2 


95 


loo 


96 


50 



Variety 
Chrysanthemum Thodc 
Juniperus chinensis 
Pink Petunias 
Phlox W. C. Egan 
Lupinus polyphyllus 
Thuya phcata 
Gladiolus America 
Paeonia Andre Lauris 
Mallow Marvels (sow i pkg. of 
Sweet Alyssum seed as cover) 
Buddleia Veitchiana 
Aquilegia caerulea 
Syringa Marie LeGraye 
Syringa Charles X 
Boltonia asteroides 
Syringa Josikaea 
Juniperus Cannarti 
Syringa Mme. Lemoine 
Cornus florida rubra 
Pansies around edge 

Paeonia festiva maxima 

Delphinium hybridum 

Lilium candidum 

Salpiglossis 

Dahlias, Cactus varieties 

Phlox Frau Anton Buchner 

Hollyhocks, pink 

Narcissus (under shrubbery) 

Viola White Perfection 

Juniperus squamata 

Juniperus squamata 

Juniperus Sabina 

Juniperus Sabina tamaricifolia 

Juniperus tripartita 

Taxus canadensis 

Taxus canadensis 

Tsuga canadensis 

Berberis Thunbergii 

Rhododendrons, hybrid 

Rhododendrons, hybrid 

Cornus florida 

Tsuga Sargent's Weeping 

Syringa, named variety 

Syringa, named variety 
Cerasus rosea pendula 
Vinca rosea alba 
Dwarf Pink Cosmos 



Common Name 
Pmk Chrysanthemum 
Chinese Pyramidal Juniper 

Hardy Phlox 
Lupines 

Fern-leaved Arborvitae 
Pink Gladiolus 
Deep Pink Peony 



Butterfly Shrub 
Columbine Blue 
Lilac, White 
Lilac, Red 
Starwort 
Hungarian Lilac 
Pyramidal Juniper 
Lilac, White 
Pink Dogwood 

White Peony 
Larkspur 
Madonna Lily 



Hardy Phlox 



Tufted Pansy 
Spreading Juniper 
Spreading Juniper 
Savin's Spreading Juniper 
Savin's Tamarix-leaved 
Junpier 
American Yew 
American Yew 
Hemlock Spruce 
Japanese Barberry 



White Dogwood 

Weeping Hemlock 

Lilac 

Lilac 

Japanese Weeping Cherry 

White Madagascar Periwinkle 




PLANTING PLANS AND KEYS THERETO 



265 



KEY TO PLANTING PLAN-Fig. 190 



A good walk arrangement and planting treatment for a church property. Such 
properties are often devoid of any such planting, which detracts greatly from the general 

appearance. 



No. 


Quan 


I 


i6 


2 


10 


3 


30 


4 


20 


5 


S 


6 


10 


7 


7 



13 


IS 


14 


7 


15 


7 


i6 


8 


17 


12 


i8 


6 


19 


9 


20 


3 


21 


5 


22 


7 


23 


10 


24 


5 


25 


5 


26 


8 


27 


5 


28 


5 


29 


I 




4 


30 


8 


31 


8 


32 


I 




5 


33 


5 


34 


I 




5 


35 


I 




5 


36 


8 


37 


5 


38 


I 




3 


39 


I 




4 


40 


12 


41 


12 


42 


8 


43 


5 


44 


15 


45 


4 


46 


8 


47 


10 


48 


S 


49 


7 


SO 


7 


51 


12 


52 


5 


S3 


7 


54 


10 


55 


7 


56 


10 


57 


9 


58 


480 


59 


I 



Variety 
Quercus rubra 
Mahonia japonica 
Leucothoe Catesbaei 
Yucca filamentosa 
Lonicera Standishi 
Lonicera Morrowi 
Rhodotypos kerrioides 
Quercus palustris 
Quercus coccinea 
Juniperus Schottii 
Azalea amoena 
Quercus tinctoria 
Leucothoe Catesbaei 
Lonicera Standishi 
Rhodotypos lierrioides 
Aucuba japonica, green 
Leucothoe Catesbaei 
Mahonia japonica 
Mahonia aquifolia 
Thuya plicata 
Taxus canadensis 
Taxus cuspidata 
Leucothoe Catesbaei 
Juniperus virginiana 
Juniperus tainariscifolia 
Cotoneaster horizontalis 
Biota orientalis 
Taxus baccata 
Juniperus Cannarti 
Ilex crenata 

Cotoneaster microphylla 
Cotoneaster microphylla 
Juniperus Cannarti 
Ilex crenata 
Taxus baccata 
Juniperus Cannarti 
Ilex crenata 
Juniperus Cannarti 
Ilex crenata 
Abelia grandiflora 
Taxus cuspidata 
Juniperus Cannarti 
Ilex crenata 
Juniperus Cannarti 
Ilex crenata 
Abelia grandiflora 
Abelia grandiflora 
Mahonia aquifolia 
Lonicera fragrantissima 
Leucothoe Catesbsei 
Cotoneaster Simonsii 
Bambusa Metake 
Abelia grandiflora 
Azalea Hinodegiri 
VVeigela Eva Rathke 
Deutzia gracilis 
Lonicera Morrowi 
Hydrangea p. g. 
Hibiscus, single pink 
Hydrangea arborescens g. a. 
Hibiscus, single pink 
Ligustrum Regelianum 
Cotoneaster Simonsii 
Ligustrum ovalifolium 
Ulmus Americana 



Common Name 
Red Oak 

Japanese Mahonia 

Drooping Andromeda 

Adam's Needle 

Standish's Bush Honeysuckle 

Japanese Bush Honeysuckle 

White Kerria 

Pin Oak 

Scarlet Oak 

Schott's Juniper 

Hardy Evergreen Azalea 

Black Oak 

Catesby's Leucothoe 

Standish's Bush Honeysuckle 

White Kerria 

Japanese Laurel 

Catesby's Leucothoe 

Japanese Mahonia 

Oregon Barberry 

Fern-leaved Arborvitae 

Canadian Yew 

Japanese Yew 

Catesby's Leucothoe 

Red Cedar 

Tamarix-leaved Juniper 

Prostrate Cotoneaster 

Oriental Arborvitae 

English Yew 

Pyramidal Juniper 

Japanese Holly 

Small-leaved Cotoneaster 

Small-leaved Cotoneaster 

Pyramidal Cedar 

Japanese Holly 

English Yew 

Pyramidal Cedar 

Japanese Holly 

Pyramidal Cedar 

Japanese Holly 

Hybrid Abelia 

Japanese Yew 

Pyramidal Cedar 

Japanese Holly 

Pyramidal Cedar 

Japanese Holly 

Hybrid Abelia 

Hybrid Abelia 

Oregon Barberry 

Fragrant Bush Honeysuckle 

Catesby's Leucothoe 

Shining-leaved Rose Box 

Japanese Cane 

Hybrid Abelia 

Evergreen Azalea 

Dark Red Weigela 

Slender Deutzia 

Japanese Bush Honeysuckle 

Large-flowered Hydrangea 

Rose of Sharon 

" Hills of Snow " 

Rose of Sliaron 

Regel's Privet 

Shining-leaved Rose Box 

California Privet 

American Elm 



266 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 




PLANTING PLANS AND KEYS THERETO 



267 



KEY TO PLANTING PLAN.-Fig. IW-Continued 



Key 

No. 



6i 
62 
63 
64 
65 
66 
67 
68 
69 
70 
71 
72 
73 
74 
75 
76 
77 
78 
79 
80 
81 
82 
83 

84 
85 
86 
87 
88 
89 
90 
91 
92 
93 
94 
95 
96 
97 
98 



15 
15 
15 



Variety 
Cerasus avium fl. pi. 

Salisburia adiantifolia 

Salisburia adiantifolia 

Quercus rubra 

Acer saccharum 

Crataegus Oxycantha, pink 

Retinispora obtusa nana 

Biota orientalis compacta 

Cedrus Libani 

Salisburia adiantifolia 

Taxus baccata 

Buxus arborescens pyramidalis 

Larix europaea 

Buxus arborescens pyramidalis 

Taxus baccata 

Juniperus virginiana 

Buxus arborescens pyramidalis 

Larix europaea 

Berberis Thunbergii 

Fagus Riversi 

Yucca filamentosa 

Ligustrum Regelianum 

Spiraea A. Waterer 

Rliododendron Mrs. J. 

Glutton 
Rhododendron Charles Dickens 
Rhododendron Album elegans 
Rhododendron Charles Dickens 
Rhododendron roseum elegans 
Ligustrum Regelianum 
Berberis Thunbergii 
Hypericum Moserianum 
Acer platanoides Schwedleri 
Salisburia adiantifolia 
Liquidambar styraciflua 
Cornus florida rubra 
Caryopteris mastacanthus 
Philadelphus Lemoinei 
Ligustrum Regelianum 
Berberis Thunbergii 



Common Name 
European Double-flowered 



(Ginkgo) 
(Ginkgo) 



(Ginkgo) 



Cherry 
Maidenhair Tree 
Maidenhair Tree 
Red Oak 
Silver Maple 
May Thorn 
Japanese Cypress 
Compact Oriental Arborvitae 
Cedar of Lebanon 
Maidenhair Tree 
English Yew 
Pyramidal Box 
European Larch 
Pyramidal Box 
English Yew 
Red Cedar 
Pyramidal Box 
European Larch 
Thunberg's Barberry 
River's Purple Beech 
Adams' Needle 
Regel's Privet 
Dwarf Pink Spiraea 

Hybrid Rhododendron 
Hybrid Rhododendron 
Hybrid Rhododendron 
Hybrid Rhododendron 
Hybrid Rhododendron 
Regel's Privet 
Thunberg's Barberry 
St. John's Wort 
Schwedler's Purple Maple 
Maidenhair Tree (Ginkgo) 
Sweet Gum 
Pink Dogwood 
Verbena Shrub 
Lemoine's Monkshood 
Regel's Privet 
Japanese Barberry 




268 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 



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Including driveway 
lot is 217x300 ft. 



PLANTING 
PLAN 
Fig. 187 




270 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 



Key 

No. 


Quan. 


I 


20 


2 


S 


3 


15 


4 


2 


5 


IS 


6 


6 


7 


20 


8 


5 


9 


4 


10 


4 


II 


6 


12 


2 


13 


5 


14 


5 


IS 


7 


i6 


S 


17 


10 


i8 


6 


19 


7 


20 


6 


21 


12 


22 


i8 


23 


i8 


24 


9 


25 


3 


26 


5 


27 


8 


28 


7 


29 


7 


30 


4 


31 


8 


32 


9 


33 


7 


34 


8 


35 


IS 


36 




37 1000 


38 


2 


39 


6 



KEY TO PLANTING PLAN.-Fig. 185 



Variety 
Hypericum Moserianum 
Azalea indica alba 
Rhododendron hybrids 
Buxus arborescens (untrimmed) 
Rhododendron hybrids 
Azalea indica alba 
Hypericum Moserianum 
Lonicera Morrowi 
Hydrangea paniculata 
Abelia grandiflora 
Azalea Hinodegiri 
Tilia dasystyla 
Hibiscus, single pink 
Hydrangea arborescens grandiflora alba 
Spiraea arguta 
Philadelphus Lemoinei 
Rosa Baby Rambler 
Weigela Eva Rathke 
Deutzia gracilis 
Hydrangea paniculata 
Mahonia aquifolia 
Pachysandra terminalis 
Hypericum Moserianum 
Stephanandra flexuosa 
Hydrangea paniculata, early 
Weigela Eva Rathke 
Buddleia Veitchii 
Spiraea Thunbergii 
Spiraea callosa alba 
Viburnum plicatum 
Desmodium penduliflorum 
Abelia grandiflora 
Lonicera Morrowi 
Azalea indica alba 
Vinca minor 
Annuals and Bulbs 
Buxus suffruticosa 
Acer polymorphum ampelopsilobum 
Cotoneaster horizontalis 



Common Name 
St. John's Wort 
Hardy White Azalea 
Hybrid Rhododendron 
Old-fashioned Box 
Hybrid Rhododendron 
Hardy White Azalea 
St. John's Wort 
Bush Honeysuckle 
Late Hydrangea 
Hybrid Abelia 
Evergreen Azalea 
Crimean Linden 
Rose of Sharon 
Everblooming Hydrangea 
Hybrid Spiraea 
Mock Orange 
Baby Rambler Rose 
Dark Red Weigela 
Slender Deutzia 
Late Hydrangea 
Holly-leaved Barberry 
Pachysandra 
St. John's Wort 
Stephanandra 
Hydrangea 
Dark Red Weigela 
Butterfly Plant 
Snow Garland 
Dwarf White Spiraea 
Japanese Snowball 
Bush Clover 
Hybrid Abelia 
Bush Honeysuckle 
White Azalea 
Periwinkle 

Dwarf Box 
Japanese Maple 
Trailing Rose Box 



PLANTING PLANS AND KEYS THERETO 



271 



PLANTING PLAN.— Fig. 185 

Lot is 127x150 ft. 




Fig. 185. — Good arrangement for a straight, box-bordered approach to school, hospital or 

institutional building 



272 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 




PLANTING PLAN.— Fig. 189 

Lot is 66x180 ft. 




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